adrianw

  • 3 days ago
  • Joined Oct 26, 2020
  • 0 best answers
  • Have made some more progress, have the bottom patches welded in, working on the top ones. I decided to ignore the welded seam on the boot floor and just do the one panel, I ummed and ahhed about it but realised when all's said and done it's going to be buried under seam sealer so there's not much point making it look more aesthetically original.

    You can see in the below photo there are some extra welds from what I assume is a historical collision repair. The inside of the back panel definitely looks like it's been beaten back into shape. Otherwise, behold: my mediocre welds!

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    Test fitting upper patches:

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  • Big day today! We pushed through and got all the hoses hooked up, coolant reservoir mounted and filled the coolant. Sort of temporarily installed the downpipe (one of the three studs is pretty stripped so probably will have to remove and replace). Not sure the downpipe is going to fit 100% but it doesn't look too bad (Classic Swede version).

    Woohoo - the engine fired up after about 20 seconds of cranking. Sounds and runs great as far as I can tell. Of course the clutch isn't working properly (probably need to bleed it again - hopefully that's all it is!) The clutch fork is moving when I press the pedal, but the pedal feels pretty soft. Mom and Dad fly home on Wednesday so I think Dad and I are done working on the car for now…we need a break!

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  • After catching up on @morch_66479 's 850 T-5R thread, I'm ashamed at how many corners I'm cutting or just saying "good enough" instead of cleaning every speck of grease off the gearbox, painting the driveshaft, and replacing every fastener with a brand new shiny one LOL!

    I got a bodged solution to the upper intercooler/radiator mounts (temporary until I figure out something prettier). I used the standard 240 radiator mounts for the intercooler (trimmed off about 5 mm on the rear ends) and standard 740 radiator mounts for the intercooler, piggybacked off the 240 radiator mounts. It all fits pretty well, was simple to do, and looks terrible (but works). Also modified the cooling fan position (spacers to move it forward in car) to clear the nose of the water pump. Ready to install hoses, top up coolant, install downpipe and O2 sensor and try starting it.

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  • Got the belts tightened after swapping PS pump bracket adjuster (I've changed to the integral reservior pump set-up from a 93 240 so had to piece together the brackets to suit). Patched in a longer MAF harness and routed that over to where the MAF will sit. Got my 850 (?) fan mounted to the 740T shroud with an interfacing bit from the 850 shroud. Then put intercooler and radiator in position, only to find the brackets from the 740T would never be able to work (I thought you could just cut a notch in them for the bump in the 240 front panel, but the mounting surface is way too high on the 740 brackets). So, back to square one on that - looking at making one bracket from two (nose of 240 bracket and back end of 740T bracket). Really should cut and weld, but may see if I can overlap and join them somehow? Otherwise I'll just source an "expensive" set of genuine 240T intercooler/radiator mounts (probably easier given I have more money than patience at this point in life!) Then put radiator shroud and fan in place and DAMN, the fan is just about touching the water pump pulley. So back to the drawing board on that (maybe some spacers to move the fan slightly closer to the radiator will be an easy "fix"). Still haven't decided what I will use to control the fan - I have a Davies-Craig fan controller, but haven't looked at instructions yet to see whether it's capable of doing 2 speeds. Need to make up an airflow block-out panel to close gap between LH side of intercooler and radiator support (where the OE oil cooler would sit, and may sit in future?) Fun, games and plenty of cursing today!

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  • I recently started a car after it sat for about 5 yrs.

    I sprayed "fogging" oil in all the cylinders. It sticks to the walls of the cylinders to provide lubrication.

    Cleaned plugs, checked leads, replaced distributor cap rotor, removed injectors, ultrasonic cleaned them and replaced o-rings. Checked fuel pressure regulator.

    Just prior to first start. Checked oil, it was "ok"(colour wise) . Drained some maybe 2 litres poured it back in the top. Spayed more fogging oil. disconected spark plug leads. Turned the motor over a couple of times just to get oil flow and pressure. Replaced plug leads. Started, warmed it up. Did oil change including new filter. In your case, 10yrs standing, I would do an oil and filter change(cheap oil) run for a little bit and then drain and change oil again(good oil) .

    As stated above fuel pumps might need attention. In my case it was a no start but before I had to pull pumps, I replaced fuel pump relay. Then it started.

    My ignition amplifier died during lay up

    Over $200 bosch unit relatively new before lay up, maybe 2yrs. You can find cheaper at Repco.

    Also things like, rusted discs, degraded brake pads, WATER PUMP FOR WIND SCREEN( I had 2 for the wagon) . The wind screen pumps can be taken apart, lubricated and freed of rust and crusty build up very easily.

    I replaced all the engine belts and front engine seals. I should get a belt tensoiner soon, mine was ok.

    I suspect the engine hushers have dedraded from not having oil. My engine has a tiny bit of noise.

    I also took the opportunity to install new parts that I bought over the years as spares. I now use the date of rego as my "day zero" as a reference for when I will need to do preventative maintenance.

    I am about to do a full brake fluid drain and replacement.

    Many of the rubber parts need to be in movement and lubrication some what regularly to avoid their cracking.

    Ten years is a long lay up. Your suspension may need attention also but the end result should bring satifaction as my build has done.

    Lots of really great advice from guys a lot more wiser and experienced than me here. We have a great parts network. They helped me enormously. Welcome to Ozvolvo. you won't regret it.

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      The idea of 10w40 which is a multi grade oil means the temperature change has already been factored in ahead of time

      The oil acts like a 10 viscosity in winter (cold) and 40 viscosity in summer (hot)

      Which is exactly what you want for a petrol powered engine like the redblock

      • Well, we got the engine in today! Yay! Waiting for clutch fork from GCP, then we'll be ready to put the gearbox in. Progress! We'll start to fit some of the ancillaries etc. in the engine bay and hook up the wiring, fuel hoses etc. while we're waiting for the clutch fork.

        Everything looks pretty tight as expected on the turbo side, but hard to say exactly until the gearbox and rear mount are in (currently engine is just sitting with front mounts and a block of wood propping it against the firewall at the back of the cam cover).

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      • The passenger corner looks like it has been in a crash at some point, there's quite a lot of filler! I'm not planning to scope creep any further so I'll work around this as much as possible.

        Okay so sheet metal shrinker/stretcher. I bought one of these recently, it cost $190 I think, and the only thing that I'm annoyed about is that I didn't buy one years ago, they are really nice, and easy to use, my first test piece came out great with maybe 5 minutes or so worth of going back and forth with the stretcher:

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        • Last Sunday headed up the hill to Mountains Cars and Coffee at Katoomba.

          I somehow found myself in amongst a group of 911s on a run up the M4. they turned off up Mulgoa Road.

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          At Katoomba, arrived right on time and got one of the last parking spots in the top car park.

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          Lovely stock series 1 RX-7

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          Jensen Interceptor had a Nitrous Oxide system fitted.

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          1200 Mazda ute interested me more than the Moffat RX-7.

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          Renault 12 wagon.

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          People began to leave, I took another look around and suddenly there was a grey 940 sedan with a very nice "patina" parked next to mine in the recently vacated spot. Late arrival of Aaron from the Lower Mountains with his wife and kids.

          Another sleeper with a nice T04 turbo addition under the hood. Really nice to meet him and see some of his fabrication work at his workshop near Penrith. I didn't get a shot of his engine bay.

          It was kinda cool being the two old Volvo guys…… not in the best condition and not making the photo galleries but still getting regular & reliable use. It's a great budget way to get you foot in the door to some of these events.

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        • Selling a Viking fab strut brace to suit Volvo 240. Brand new.

          Only has 5mm of clearance on my k jet intake and it unfortunately just hits. Might be fine if you have some good engine mounts. Clears all other intakes.

          Powder coated in RAL4008. It’s a purple colour.

          $700 and pickup from rosebud, vic only due to size

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        • It’s still there.

          Maroon K-jet 244 with the light grey interior (only the second interior in this colour I’ve seen).

          Car is probably past saving, but the interior can be saved and the manual bits all still seem to be there.

          Also a red 81/82 245 there.

          I know all this because I have been doing my part in saving other sihtboxes. Image description
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        • Got a few more things done…mounted the alternator with new bushes, and of course with the oil pressure sender in place the original belt size was too short (alternator touching sender). We had slightly longer (920 mm) belts which just eke by, but I may have to get some longer ones…reason being is if we try to use the original oil cooler lines bracket, that is sandwiched between the alternator bracket and block and will position the bottom of the alternator out the thickness of the bracket (about 2.5 mm) which will tighten up the belts even more. It was a bunch of f**kery to get the alternator bushes and alternator in place and I managed to smash my middle finger nail with the hammer so f**k you alternator and hammer (one of those days…that I remind myself I don't really enjoy working on cars LOL!)

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          • Edited

          The round caps that go over the nut are stupidly expensive for what they are and available via Skandix but are listed on FCP , see the photo below.

          I used VW Passatt , Golf , Polo , Jetta , you will need to put an O ring inside the cap before pushing it over the Nut but they work just fine and total cost was less than Aus$3.50 per wiper.Image description
          The O ring was just from a multi size pack in a plastic box.

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          Just insert O ring in the inner section and it will hold nicelyImage description
          That's US$23.16 each plus postage , that's Aus$36.72c each plus postage.

        • ACCESSORIES:

          Managed to get a Casio T-5R watch from Japan and the factory radio remote.

          During the BTCC era, a couple of BTCC 850 Racing watches were issued. A big yellow watch, completely dedicated to the T-5R, was issued in Japan. The watch is rare, but to be honest, it will not get a prize for the most beautiful T-5R gadget ever made.

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        • Selling a complete 405 head with an H cam ready to bolt on and drive. In perfect working order although it’s pretty dirty.

          This is both the high performance kjet head and the highest performance factory camshaft.

          Came off my 81 240’s b23e. Located Sydney nsw

          $500 + postage.

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        • A quick wash and then off to the "Old School Jap and Euro Back to School Meet" at Emu Plains this morning. Fun event, lots of cool, interesting and unexpected cars. I really enjoy getting out of the house and attending these sort of events early on a Sunday. Get an eyeful of candy and then go home early enough to do other things.

          Duco is shiny but I did not treat the bumper :-(

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          Parked up next to Justin's FRY-244. Beautiful work on this including the 5.0 GMH V8. Got to meet him when we were leaving. His sounded better!

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          Side shot.

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          Zac's "Banana". I didn't catch up with him, but good to see the turbo Skyline powered sleeper again.

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          Couple of GTRs just laying around.

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          Survivor Sigma

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          My neighbour on the other side.

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          Mazda goodness

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          Mk 2 Golf GTI

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          One day I'll have one of these.

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          Lots of E30 Beemers.

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