Hi James
Could I please add the following to my order?
2 x https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/exhaust/assembly-parts/gasket-exhaust-pipe/1000510/
Thanks again for organising the group buy.
Brad
- 15 hours ago
- Joined Sep 23, 2014
- 2 best answers
There is a seal located behind the spring in your photo. They fall apart due to age and heat like most other seals. Easy job to replace it. You will need to remove that nut and spindle, then the spring to access the seal. Take note of how the spring is oriented. The throttle switch needs to be removed from the opposite end too if I remember correctly. Obviously you will need to reset the position of the throttle switch upon reassembly.
This is the seal:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-throttle-sealing-ring-genuine-volvo-419568
Hi James
Awesome! Could I please add the following:
1 x https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/body/windows/window-seal-rear-window-rubber/1046193/
Thank you.
I got a set of heater hoses for my 940 from Berry's. That was a couple of years ago though.
Whereabouts are you? For the timing belt there might be a fellow OzVolvo-er nearby who has the crankshaft holder tool you could borrow?
Some people have used the "rope trick" which involves removing the spark plug from cylinder No. 1 and stuffing rope into the cylinder -as much as you can get in there. Then rotate the engine counter-clockwise using the crank pulley bolt until the piston compresses the rope against the cylinder head. I'm not a fan of that because I don't like the idea of shoving foreign objects into the cylinders. A lot of force is required to loosen the crank pulley bolt. Some people swear by it though.
Another option is a rattle gun. Again, opinions vary. Some people say it's okay while others claim you risk snapping the crankshaft. Might depend on how tight the bolt is. I wouldn't do it.
Best option is to get the right tool. If you plan on keeping the car it will pay for itself.
If the CR905 is similar to the CR728 there is a plastic gear that is known for turning to mush and falling apart. This is what happened to mine almost 20 years ago. Back then I was quoted around $100 by someone to make a new one.
I can't find the photos I took at the time but I think the gear was near the tape drive motor.
I just did a quick search on Google and found a couple of posts on the UK forum where people have had trouble with that little gear.
- Edited
I've uploaded the wiring diagram pdf to a Onedrive page. Not sure if it will work but feel free to give it a try. Seatbelt reminder circuit is on page 110.
Hmm. Looks like 1994 940s are wired differently to the 91 940. I was going by the 91 wiring diagram book that I have. I've got a pdf copy of the 1994 940 wiring diagram but I can't upload it here as the file size is too large.
@jamesinc the file is just over 27MB. Could it be uploaded to the tech archive?
I used to have 2 940s (only 1 now) and one of those was a 94 sedan. The seat belt reminder relay is the same as the indicator flasher relay and only works on the driver's seat. To confirm have a look at the middle row of relays behind the fuses, 3rd relay from the left is the flasher/seat belt reminder.
If your seat belt reminder isn't working (but your indicators do) check under the driver's seat for a disconnected electrical plug (4 pin I think). It's possible someone unplugged the seat belt catch because the relay wouldn't stop clicking even with the seat belt done up. That happened to my car. The only way to fix it is to replace the seat belt catch on the side of the seat.
GCP will have 20% off all parts from 22 November to 2 December.
- Best Answerset by jamesinc
Just to close out this thread. Ramrod sent me a replacement Uni joint, thanks mate
I installed it last week. The worst of the vibration is gone but there is still a slight vibration on take off from standstill.I noticed the prop shaft centre support bearing rubber was cracked and looking pretty sad so maybe the bearing could be on its way out too.
Thanks ramrod. I appreciate your help. Can you send me your phone number please and we can work out the details.
YV1744886L2399058
1990 Volvo 740GL sedan. B230F AW70L
I need a replacement front Universal Joint for the above car. The existing one is binding/catching through part of its travel and is causing some vibration.
What is the general consensus these days on brand? Is OEM or Volvo (assuming it's still available) the way to go? Or is there an aftermarket brand that is okay? What about greaseable vs non-greaseable joints? The current one, which I assume is original is non-greaseable and I'd prefer that because I'm lazy
I believe the Volvo part number is 3520997. I haven't checked the shaft diameter yet though. Seems like there are a couple of different sizes.
Appreciate any input. Thanks.
I posted about the failure of this module on my mum's 740 a few months ago. The problem was as you described - the thermal paste had dried out so was ineffective. The new module cost ~$150.
Hi James
If no one claims the last spot, any chance I could add one for a 940 please?
https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/body/body-parts/panelling/engine-protection-plate/1000264/
When I converted my 940 from manual to power windows I was able to purchase the caps from Volvo. This was over 20 years ago though. Some colours are still available on GCP:
https://www.gcp.se/en_eur/search?q=682028&mode=text
These are for late 700/900. I'm not certain if these will fit a 240. I could take some measurements of the ones I have if that would be helpful.
They look great. I've got the faux wood trim on the dashboard of my 940. I've always wanted the door inserts to match too.
There was a post on Turbobricks recently from a bloke who redid the door cards in his 240 (not a 242 though). He used plywood from the look of it but had a few problems with it.