@AdamDenton pretty sure it is the same headlight as you find in 75-79 240s, might be easier to ask around for those
It looks like it is only used for some kind of diagnostic purpose, I imagine you can ignore it. Does the manual talk about how to run diagnostics on the control unit? That might add useful context.
Given the wear on the skirts you will likely find the bores are tapered and oval and need to be oversized to get back into spec. Even on a well-maintained high mileage redblock you would expect this, I don't think I've even once measured an original block and found everything to be in spec.
I agree with @Massey165, it's an own-goal to put your motor back together knowing your clearances are out, and you don't want to machine your bores only to run a sloppy crank, as you might end up having to run a heavier oil to account for the excess clearance on the crank journals, which will in turn accelerate wear on the fresh bores and pistons where the clearances are tighter.
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I took the AC centre vents out and repaired all the cracked and broken fascia, I kept all the pieces that had fallen off so it's now in one piece again. I used JB Weld, and I've been sick the last few days so it got time to well and truly cure fully.
The controls were all creaky so I gave them all a tiny spot of MX6 grease. Turns out this unit was the source of all the interior rattles, the cabin experience is pretty nice now!
The radio antenna also got stuck in the up position, after going through everything, it turns out the head unit is the problem, it's holding the antenna trigger at 12V at all times, I'm assuming there is a power transistor inside that has failed with low impedance but that is pure speculation. It is the cheapest wireless Android Auto headunit on Aliexpress so not completely shocked!
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It is for deshrouding the valves to improve flow. Taken to its logical conclusion you totally eliminate the lip on the intake side and feather it out toward the edge of the bore.
I think as seen here I wouldn't expect much, maybe a few HP and a bit more power at high RPM.
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I am clearing out some of my spare cams (if you're looking for a different grind, or a geared aux shaft, send me a DM and I'll see if I can sort you out). $150 + postage, or you can collect from me in Telopea 2117.
Pleasingly good condition. The deck has no corrosion, the marks you see in the usual corrosion spots are surface only. I think once skimmed you can expect this deck to come up immaculately.
In the chambers note also that at some point someone has knocked the corners off the long side of the chamber recess.
I hadn't taken a closer look at this head until now but generally it looks to be in great condition although my advice with used heads is always to tear them down, resurface, lap the valves, replace the seals.
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You may remember Bangin' Headlights sponsored Oz Volvo Nats last year, and that was basically by accident, because I bought a pair of them to try and adapt them to my 244, then ended up talking to the guy who runs the business over in Perth, who is also the guy who designed them.
Long story short:
- The headlights are amazing
- They are a warm white designed to replicate original bulbs
- They are a bona fide projector, ADR approved, they are not the kind that look like garbage and blind oncoming traffic
- They are lensed for RHD cars
- Also, they're made by an Australian company, which I think is pretty cool
Ultimately, I didn't like how they looked on my 244 as they are smaller than a 244 round (which is more like 8"). If you wanted to run them on a 244 and have them blend in, you could try and source a set of 7" fascias from the US, which I'm pretty sure if the only market where 240s had a 7" round headlight.
They are a nice unit, the lenses are custom made, and pleasingly they are indeed glass.
If you have an 1800, 12x, or 14x with factory 7" rounds, these are a straight swap.
We also gave away a set as a prize at Oz Volvo Nats, and the winner reported back they were awesome. You can see Oz Volvo's post about it here https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1KjPqw34qU/
Anyway, they were $450 new, you can have for $300. I've had them for around a year, but aside from unboxing them to mock them up on the car, they haven't seen any action. I did power them up to check out the beam and the cutoff line is crisp.
Product link: https://www.banginheadlights.com/collections/7-headlights/products/traditional-7-inch-led-headlight?variant=42493072834755
PS: yes, I did try to convince the owner of Bangin' Headlights to produce 8" Bosch rounds for the small group of euro cars that run them, he said the approvals and glass foundry costs are prohibitively expensive for small runs
Selling to bring in some cash for a new hoist
From a running NA 940. It had a head mount dizzy. If you need a sealing plug to cover that hole, let me know as I have a new one on hand I believe.
If anyone is lukewarm just post here and I will drag it out and take photos!
Offloading some parts to fund other stupid Volvo-related purchases so you know the money is going to a good cause.
If it were me, I'd avoid used pistons just on the basis of, you're spending all this money machining the block for what is going to be a really sweet setup, if you slap worn pistons in, it's going to negate the benefit of that freshly machined bore.
I usually get pistons from KG Trimning, but I appreciate a set of four is nearly $1000.
https://www.kgtrimning.org/200-ser-1/engineparts/engine-block/piston/3735.html
NOS pistons could be a great choice, just be sure of their condition, if they were stored improperly, maybe in a humid environment or maybe the gudgeon pins weren't kept in their wax paper wrappers, you might have surface defects, corrosion, etc, which will either negate the savings or just render them useless. Replacing the rings isn't the end of the world, but I don't know if you can even buy gudgeon pins by themselves.
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Yes it is the same conrod, both the B19 and the B21 conrods are Volvo part 1219237 (originally 463021). The piston you're looking for is a B21A/F/FT piston (part 272044). I mention that because if you look at "turbo pistons", there is also the B21E/ET piston, which is a higher CR, 8.7:1 (I think) vs B21A 7.5:1. As a result it may not play as nice in a carb turbo setup. In terms of fitment, though, either piston will fit the B19 conrod.
ORIGINAL (stamped 1999) transmission mount replaced
New one from Skandix:
It made a bigger difference than I expected, even with those polyurethane engine mounts the NVH is pretty minimal. Torque steer under hard acceleration has improved although that is not so surprising.
Sounds like it's time for a few choice mods
One side done. Other side is tacked but I ran out of time for today, might get to it tomorrow arvo. Still need to grind the welds of course.
Hi all, just an update to say that the order is in and I will send you all DMs with payment details etc shortly.
I see your ClassicSwede initiation has gone smoothly
Have made some more progress, have the bottom patches welded in, working on the top ones. I decided to ignore the welded seam on the boot floor and just do the one panel, I ummed and ahhed about it but realised when all's said and done it's going to be buried under seam sealer so there's not much point making it look more aesthetically original.
You can see in the below photo there are some extra welds from what I assume is a historical collision repair. The inside of the back panel definitely looks like it's been beaten back into shape. Otherwise, behold: my mediocre welds!
Test fitting upper patches:
I also got caught out thinking this was about the under-bonnet liner, I've only known the cabin interior trim as a headliner, and a lot of 240s have both a headliner and a hoodliner, so I've updated the title to clarify for others.