delorean_mine

  • 7 days ago
  • Joined Dec 5, 2019
  • 0 best answers
  • Use the D5 angle gear, at least the output sleeve if not whole unit, Mark will have one in stock. It’s tougher than the V8 one.

    We use Jim Walton Trandmission shop for trans rebuilding with better valve body and some internals, Mark had mine done before I bought it and he uses them for BMG trans repairs.

    I’m lucky to have bought a 2006 from a BMG customer and it has the engine problem fixed, trans rebuilt, Haldex done and angle gear sorted!

    Still ancillaries to do, but new Volvo parts, Mark can help. Genuine best! And 2YR warranty.

    I’ve put coilovers on mine as nivomats were shot as were fronts. Needs sway bar sorting but lower is good!

    Buy all new coils and plugs. Getting to rear bank is horrible job….

    While you can, get rear seats out and replace fuel pump and sender.

    Mark has later model interiors available at most times so refreshing tired seats etc it easy and affordable.

    My XC90V8 is over 300,000K and still strong!

    I may build another engine up for later. Maybe Yamaha outboard motor parts will go in…. They start at 5.3 litre with crank so it’s possible…..

    Don’t forget to clean out the cats comprehensively as they are getting blocked in higher mileage car and very difficult to get as are on the head basically.

    Or delete…..

    RICA do a tune for these too, Mark and I are considering for our V8s………

  • Do you still have the rear seat catch lugs that bolt onto the panel just under the rear windows?

    • What year is your donor LH2.4 car? The reason I ask is in 1993 (and possibly 1992) they made some major changes to the harness and how it routes into the cabin. The grey connectors in the engine bay were deleted and all connections were made inside the cabin below the glove box area. It might be easier if the donor car is 1991 or earlier. FWIW I converted a 79 245GL from K-jet to a 1993 donor car LH2.4, but I swapped the complete body harness (basically stripped my car and the donor car down to bare shell and built back up as if the factory were assembling it). That was a lot of work. I agree with others, if your LH2.2 is running fine and you have no plans for turbo or whatever, just leave it as-is. I even did a supercharger conversion on an 88 LH2.2 car and with some tricks (rising rate fuel pressure regulator) I was able to make it run fine. TBH I've had better reliability out of the LH2.2 cars than LH2.4. LH2.4 seems to come with some odd glitches.

      • You don't need to swap the cabin harnesses, the engine harness is separate from the other harnesses (one thing I love about 240s is their modularity).

        So you'd have to separate the transmission to swap the flywheel or flex plate for the toothed 2.4 version and mount the crank position sensor

        Then you would swap the whole engine wiring harness and the ECU (fuel computer). I forget if 2.2 240s already have an EZK (ignition computer), if they do then you can leave that alone.

        You also need to swap the engine coolant temp sensor and the AMM.

        The distributors are different, but you can leave the LH-2.2 distributor as-is, it just won't have anything plugged into it from the harness anymore.

        My only advice if you pull the harness is do not cut any wires, pull the whole engine harness intact. This includes the cable bundle that runs inside the cabin, along the firewall from the passenger side to where the ECU mounts to the right of the driver's feet.

        The interior trim panels and brackets that cover the ECU are handy to have. The EZK mounts to a bracket on the cabin side of the firewall near where the loom passes into the cabin from the engine bay.

      • The temperature can be checked in the over flow tank (engine thoroughly warmed up) or on the thermostat housing. Readings should be close to thermostat spec.

        Alternately (IMO), better to add VDO gauges. Oil temp, because it takes longer for the oil to warm up, Oil pressure and voltmeter. Connect the voltmeter directly to the alternator output. With just ignition on it will read battery voltage, with engine running it will read alternator output.

      • gavinh I have no plugs that is one of the issues, I'm trying to source one, íts a 14pin one,

        Ahhh. This may be what you want. CR718 is the US equivalent of CR728.

        • Hi,

          I am looking for a replacement drivers for hinge. On mine the spring has cracked right through and it just swings.

          Any chance you have a good one?

          A untracked grill is also on my wish list.

          Cheers Tim

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          • Just continuing this thread, Dan's wagon has a new owner, me! After being out of the Volvo game for quite a few years I saw his wagon for sale and picked it up as a little project, progress will probably be slow but gradually Im planning on getting it back up to scratch!

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          • Mini1964 I work for Repco, there's plenty of items that have very incorrect prices and don't get reviewed. Ask for a more accurate price and availability. I can do this for you on Monday if it's your preferred way of purchasing.

          • Still looking ……. one from delorian wasnt great so let me know hat you have !

          • Quick update for everyone following - the car just completed a camping trip from North Brisbane down to NSW! She performed beautifully as has been my daily driver for about 2 years-ish now. The whole trip was about 1500kms and not a single problem from the car at all, in fact, one of the 2012 BMW motorbikes that came along had more problems and required roadside fixes to keep going...
            Averaged about 11L/100km for those interested, but I was driving it pretty hard keeping up with the 3 bikes that came along. Anyway, here's a couple of pics...