I’m after some input on what I should do to “bombproof” my v8

It’s been a wicked car and after years of reliable service it’s needs a bit of love.

I’m dropping the engine to do rocker cover/ timing gaskets pcv hoses

Ps pump

Water pump

Belt, tensioner, idlers

Angle gear has shit the bed so may as well sort that while it’s out

Torque converter rebuilt,

unless anyone have a source for a new one? None of my sachs suppliers do car parts 🙁

What else should I do whilst it’s out?

I deal with berry motor group through work so I’ll pick marks brain next time I speak to them.

but it always good to get a few peoples thoughts.

What about stuff like timing chain guides/ tensioners?

I figure I mays as well do as much as I can while it’s out coz they are a bit of a bitch to work on!

give me a 16 litre diesel engine any day!

Rear main oil seal, cam cover gaskets, and the PCVs might be the go, but let's see if Staggers chips in (who has been there / done that and would know from experience).

Cheers!

I plan to do pcv valve and hoses

Front and rear crank seals

Any bloody gasket I can as it’s all easy pickings with the engine out!

I haven’t read much about the timing chain but figure if the covers are off I may as well do any tensioners/ guides while I’m in there.

Is it worth doing balance shaft bearings whilst I’m there?

I’m paying to have it done but the mechanic doing it is my customer so we look after each other. I’ll be helping after work to get it off his hoist quicker!

I don’t mind spending the time/ dollars now as labour will be minimised by the fact the engines out instead of working around corners the whole bloody time!

What year is yours ? 2006 had the weak balance shaft bearing, my timing chains and balance shaft still going strong at 420,000km. 2007 and later balance shaft should be fine unless they're neglected on oil changes. I keep listening for unusual noises but those engines are basically bombproof from the factory. Mine's still on the original ignition coils too.

I've had 2 torque converters done at AsNu Torque Converters in Girraween (Sydney). Knew what they were doing and it certainly gets rid of the shudder. (2 different friends' V8s, not mine)

Certainly change the belt tensioner and idlers at the same time. If an idler bearing seizes (and they only last around 150,000km) it'll chew out the timing cover and the motor comes out again to replace it. Change the spark plugs whilst you have the access too.

My angle gear (3rd one) has also sharted, but after 40,000km the grinding in the coupling sleeve stopped and I haven't bothered about it yet. My transmission input seal has started leaking so I may revisit the AWD side when I have to fix the seal. The towbar rivnuts pulled out of the chassis whilst towing our 1mt caravan, so I've been busy with issues in the mean time…

FCP Euro have a power steering pump seal kit. I've done 3 of those now… around $15 should see the steering pump as good as new. There's a more extensive kit if you need the big front seal, but the basic O ring kit has been fine for 3 out of 3 cars now.

Be very careful of the black plastic fuel pressure sensor housing - it's under the inlet manifold and is easily broken. Basically no longer available and is a part of the entire fuel rail from the factory. Replace the fuel pressure sensor while you have good access to it.

Use the D5 angle gear, at least the output sleeve if not whole unit, Mark will have one in stock. It’s tougher than the V8 one.

We use Jim Walton Trandmission shop for trans rebuilding with better valve body and some internals, Mark had mine done before I bought it and he uses them for BMG trans repairs.

I’m lucky to have bought a 2006 from a BMG customer and it has the engine problem fixed, trans rebuilt, Haldex done and angle gear sorted!

Still ancillaries to do, but new Volvo parts, Mark can help. Genuine best! And 2YR warranty.

I’ve put coilovers on mine as nivomats were shot as were fronts. Needs sway bar sorting but lower is good!

Buy all new coils and plugs. Getting to rear bank is horrible job….

While you can, get rear seats out and replace fuel pump and sender.

Mark has later model interiors available at most times so refreshing tired seats etc it easy and affordable.

My XC90V8 is over 300,000K and still strong!

I may build another engine up for later. Maybe Yamaha outboard motor parts will go in…. They start at 5.3 litre with crank so it’s possible…..

Don’t forget to clean out the cats comprehensively as they are getting blocked in higher mileage car and very difficult to get as are on the head basically.

Or delete…..

RICA do a tune for these too, Mark and I are considering for our V8s………

What coil overs did you go with? And what sway bar issues are you having?

I’d be happy to do away with the cats but worry about issues with o2 sensors and so forth?

Any input there?

What’s the benefits of getting Walton’s mods to the transmission?

    richofoz

    I reckon the Waltons transmission rebuild gives me better shifts ( if you kick over to manual shift on downshifts to a stop then back to auto it will run in a more aggressive pattern, this is true of non modified too) I perceive so at least. And it is built for longevity over standard at least.

    The CEIKA coil overs are rebuild able. As it’s near 2”” lower the drop links need to be shorter and I haven’t had chance to put some in yet! Slack… So it’s pretty harsh , the long ones not allowing suspension to work as it should. I have Ranger adjustable links for the rear and modified S/V60 rear ones from HARDRACE, adjustable I hope will fit in front otherwise I look for other.

    I’ve not looked at removing cats , I bet there’s info out there.

      Not a lot v8 specific but I’m reading through general Volvo stuff now.

      I’d love to go coilovers but in reality I really do use mine as a “soft roader “ so don’t want to lose that much ground clearance and the corrugated roads I travel would probably shake out my fillings!

      My car is mid 2007 so I’m happy knowing I’m a bit safer re balance shaft etc…

      I had looked into the Yamaha outboard crossover.

      I’m not sure the cams would be suitable but the slightly larger internalz were intriguing!

      I’m not sure how true it is but from what I’ve read the driveline is more of a limitation than the engine?

      All I know is the angle gear makes a pretty impressive sound when it lets go in a hard launch!

      (that’ll teach me for listening to my ten year old son and dragging be golf’s!)

      The C/O are for std ride level and lower by 2" (or more?) The next stage is lower again , the type of ride you want is ordered at the build sheet too with little comfort springs to help some more if you like. Lifted is also an option , a set was on FB a while back , Ceika ones fr XC90. USD1600 when i got mine built.

      Someone ith a Polestar is getting a tq converter from The States ( same transmission. )

      The angle gear unit iss piss poor allegedly , as you discovered….

      I have some pretty cluey blokes to build torque converters locally.

      I really should stick to “engine out” jobs for this stage.

      I can do driveline and other stuff pretty easily at work.

      So I’m going with pretty much every gasket , seal or consumable that’s easier to change when the engines on the floor exposed.

      The main question is do I just delete the cats?!

      Ill call mark tomorrow if work calms down for a minute!

      Thanks heaps for sharing your experience!

        richofoz

        Let Mark know who does your TQ converters.

        I wouldn’t mind getting a BW35 one done for ole 245 . My tame retired mechanic can do the rest of box work, he is hot rodder from old days.

        Waltons can do the work but their converter guys are pushed way out for builds.

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