Greg's Gold 1991 240GLE wagon B230FT-to-be

carnut222 · 2018-10-24T08:18:36+00:00

I've experimented with different wheels along the way, but I think I like the Polaris (currently fitted) the best...

Major Ledfoot

carnut222 I'd be tempted to do the rear main, aux shaft and front crank seals, along with the sump gasket before it goes into the car. They're the ones most painful to sort out once the engine's installed. Nothing's worse than completing a new engine install and finding leaks.

carnut222

Major Ledfoot yeah that would be the prudent thing to do!

carnut222

Got the engine and gearbox separated and engine on engine stand. Removed crank pulley, clutch and flywheel before putting it on the stand. Had a bit of drama with one of the allen head clutch pressure plate bolts - thought I had stripped it with the impact wrench, but was able to loosen it with an allen key and section of pipe for leverage. Everything looks pretty good so far.

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carnut222

Making a bit of slow progress. Got the heater hoses, all wiring etc. disconnected and ready to pull the engine out. Of course I borked the firewall pass-through grommet for the ECU/EZK wires. Fark! Oh well, when I put it back in I'll fill it full of silicone sealant! May try to glue the rubber back together before I install it. I unbolted the AC compressor/bracket from the engine and hung it in place so I don't have to de-gas the AC, but the compressor front seal is leaking anyway so eventually that will have to be rectified. Still seems to work fine so guess I'll leave it for the time being. Really stupid as it would be so easy to deal with it while the engine is out LOL! I think I have come to hate working on cars now. 🙁

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carnut222

Got the boat anchor (AKA auto gearbox) out today. No real dramas. The kickdown cable had been a bit sticky over the years requiring some WD40 then ATF poured down it to free it up. Now I know why. Before I pulled the gearbox out, I grabbed the kickdown cable from below and pulled it down so it didn't get stuck on anything. In doing this, I snapped it off at the plastic boss where it goes into the gearbox. Fark! So I cut the end off the cable and slid the sheath off to discover the cable was on its last thread basically due to a rusty/frayed spot, so yeah, miracle that it didn't snap while driving at some stage! Pic attached. The gearbox itself was fine and has less than 150k kms on it if anyone is interested. I'll post it in the for sale section. I believe it's an AW70.

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carnut222

Anyone want to place bets on whether a standard 240 M46 J-type overdrive rear flange will bolt onto the back of a 740T M46 P-type overdrive? The seal diameter appears to be the same, but not sure whether the P-type output shaft and spline is the same as the J-type. I bet somebody here will know @Major Ledfoot Bob I'm betting you'll know!

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Major Ledfoot

@carnut222 - I haven't tried it, but if the spline count on the output shaft and diameter is the same, I don't see why it shouldn't.

Greg, looks like you'll have to try it out and be the pioneer for this one! 🙂

AFAIK the 1140 and 1310 flanges can interchange on the J-types.

carnut222

Major Ledfoot Thanks Bob. I'll learn something new to share on this one!

jamesinc

Hmm, I've had both flanges sitting side by side and I think to my eye the splines were the same.

carnut222

jamesinc Thanks James. My concern was more that something about the P-type overdrive unit would be different due to it being more heavy-duty than the J-type, so I thought maybe it would have a larger-diameter output shaft. But yeah, hopefully it will just be plug and play!

Roinik

It'll fit.

Most of the J vs P is internal around the dashpots, springs and planet gear. I have spare dashpot piston o'rings if you need them.

carnut222

Roinik Thanks Ian. Sounds like I'll be OK!

Swedthusiast

geeze im keen on those wheels on the first pic you posted to this thread are they oem volvo or aftermarket?

carnut222

Swedthusiast Thanks - the wheels are the OE Volvo Polaris alloys. I bought them about 20 years ago used on whatever came before Gumtree. They were in pretty rough condition so I had to have them stripped, straightened, beads welded, then painted. They're definitely one of my favourite wheels. You used to be able to buy the replica wheels (Eiker E1: https://www.eiker.no/produkt/eiker-e1-volvo-75x17-5-108-et20/) but I don't know if they are available anywhere now).

carnut222

Happy engine-out Easter day! 🙂

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carnut222

Got my FCP Euro order of engine gaskets/seals…but been too busy to work on the gold car for a while (Volvo Club magazine. Volvo Club National Rally planning, lots of yard projects). Should get stuck into it again some day! 🙂

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