Making a bit of slow progress. Got the heater hoses, all wiring etc. disconnected and ready to pull the engine out. Of course I borked the firewall pass-through grommet for the ECU/EZK wires. Fark! Oh well, when I put it back in I'll fill it full of silicone sealant! May try to glue the rubber back together before I install it. I unbolted the AC compressor/bracket from the engine and hung it in place so I don't have to de-gas the AC, but the compressor front seal is leaking anyway so eventually that will have to be rectified. Still seems to work fine so guess I'll leave it for the time being. Really stupid as it would be so easy to deal with it while the engine is out LOL! I think I have come to hate working on cars now.
Greg's Gold 1991 240GLE wagon B230FT-to-be
Got the boat anchor (AKA auto gearbox) out today. No real dramas. The kickdown cable had been a bit sticky over the years requiring some WD40 then ATF poured down it to free it up. Now I know why. Before I pulled the gearbox out, I grabbed the kickdown cable from below and pulled it down so it didn't get stuck on anything. In doing this, I snapped it off at the plastic boss where it goes into the gearbox. Fark! So I cut the end off the cable and slid the sheath off to discover the cable was on its last thread basically due to a rusty/frayed spot, so yeah, miracle that it didn't snap while driving at some stage! Pic attached. The gearbox itself was fine and has less than 150k kms on it if anyone is interested. I'll post it in the for sale section. I believe it's an AW70.
Anyone want to place bets on whether a standard 240 M46 J-type overdrive rear flange will bolt onto the back of a 740T M46 P-type overdrive? The seal diameter appears to be the same, but not sure whether the P-type output shaft and spline is the same as the J-type. I bet somebody here will know @Major Ledfoot Bob I'm betting you'll know!
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@carnut222 - I haven't tried it, but if the spline count on the output shaft and diameter is the same, I don't see why it shouldn't.
Greg, looks like you'll have to try it out and be the pioneer for this one!
AFAIK the 1140 and 1310 flanges can interchange on the J-types.
Major Ledfoot Thanks Bob. I'll learn something new to share on this one!
Hmm, I've had both flanges sitting side by side and I think to my eye the splines were the same.
It'll fit.
Most of the J vs P is internal around the dashpots, springs and planet gear. I have spare dashpot piston o'rings if you need them.
geeze im keen on those wheels on the first pic you posted to this thread are they oem volvo or aftermarket?
Swedthusiast Thanks - the wheels are the OE Volvo Polaris alloys. I bought them about 20 years ago used on whatever came before Gumtree. They were in pretty rough condition so I had to have them stripped, straightened, beads welded, then painted. They're definitely one of my favourite wheels. You used to be able to buy the replica wheels (Eiker E1: https://www.eiker.no/produkt/eiker-e1-volvo-75x17-5-108-et20/) but I don't know if they are available anywhere now).
Happy engine-out Easter day!
Got my FCP Euro order of engine gaskets/sealsā¦but been too busy to work on the gold car for a while (Volvo Club magazine. Volvo Club National Rally planning, lots of yard projects). Should get stuck into it again some day!
OK so my parents are visiting and my dad is helping get this stalled project back on the road again! We pulled the dash out to make it easier to install the manual pedal box. Marked, then drilled holes for clutch master cylinder, then reinstalled pedal box. Got the clutch master, pipe, bracket, hose and slave installed. Just need to cut the tip off the brake master cylinder reservoir hydraulic feed for clutch and install the rubber hose, then the clutch mechanical and hydraulic system will be done.
Dad's a stickler for cleanliness, so I said great, get the engine cleaned up (I had started some time back). While he did that, I installed the new spark plug heat shields (unfortunately they're not perfectly alignedā¦guess It's due to manufacturing tolerances?) The new ones have a rolled edge which I assume helps make them stiffer and maybe less of a sharp surface.
New water pump is installed (genuine Volvo - made in UK - purchased maybe 15 years ago?) Also installed the oil pressure sender, new LH2.4 ECU temp sender, swapped gauge temp sender from the 91 240 engine, pulled distributor from 91 240 engine (to be installed on the B230FT). We'll put on a new timing belt and get things aligned, then install the distributor.
Next steps are - swap 91 LH2.4 harness over to B230FT and route extra wire to oil pressure sender, install inlet manifold and new injectors, pull cam cover and put on new seal, and install rear distributor blanking plate + IPD rear cover plateā¦then I guess new clutch pilot bearing, install flywheel and clutchā¦heater hoses, engine mount brackets and engine mountsā¦then about ready to install engine.
Oh, we also got the overdrive wiring re-jigged using the 740T M46 overdrive relay, and I routed the overdrive light wire to the spot for the ABS warning light. Disassembled instrument cluster and cut a green overdrive "5" lens from an earlier cluster to replace the ABS lens on the warning lamp strip. Reassembled cluster and installed a globe in the correct spot.
We don't reinstall the dash until the engine and wiring harness is in as I want to have good access to the wire pass-through when installing as I buggered up the grommet when I removed it (super glue to the rescue). Also installed turbo ECU and have turbo EZK ready to install once engine and harness are in.
So, things are moving along!
What cruise control system is in the car?
jamesinc It's a custom job using a 740 throttle spool/vacuum dashpot/bracket, a late (91-93) 240 cruise stalk and cruise ECU, custom pedal switch brackets, wiring etc. I prefer this setup as it doesn't rely on engine vacuum at all to control the throttle position (it has the separate vacuum pump).
I want to do exactly this, I got the cruise system from a LHD 93 240, which has the separate pump (pretty much identical to the 850's setup).
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Yesterday we removed the cam cover, got the rear distributor cam plug put in and new cam cover gasket on. I was happy with how clean the inside of the engine is compared to most of the others I've had open. I poured some new fresh oil on top of the cam as I figured it wouldn't hurt given the engine has been sitting for 18-20 years (?!) Edit: engine has been sitting since late 2004ā¦so yeah, I guess over 20 years LOL!
We also got the new water pump installed, and new (old stock LOL!) "blue" timing belt installed, and distributor installed (so glad the intermediate shaft had the gear machined into it!)
Today we pulled the inlet manifold, alternator and wiring harness off the 91 B230F engine and got that swapped over to the B230FT with a new manifold gasket. We'll swap in the new injectors, then things are getting close to being able to install the engine.
We need to install the RH side engine mount and see whether it will be possible to tweak the existing 740T oil cooler hard lines, or whether I'll have to get some new lines made up. I'm pretty sure somebody said the 740 lines can be used with a minor adjustment (bend?)
I discovered I only have one of the heater hoses new, so will re-use the other as it looks good (stupid, I know!)
I noticed a threaded hole in the front of the turbo compressor housingā¦it appears to go straight into the turbine housing, so I'm wondering what's supposed to go in it? Maybe a bolt to hold a clamp for the boost reference hose or boost gauge hose? Hmm, otherwise I'll just put a bolt in it I guess. Didn't get a pic but will post later as maybe somebody can look at their B230FT and tell me what it is for.
Is it an M8 threaded hole? I think it is for a clamp which locates the oil or water cooling hard line, I forget which one