ramrod yes I'd assume 9 mm rods based on it being an 88 740T, however it's a Volvo reconditioned engine - so I don't know when it was reconditioned and with what parts they reconditioned them. I mean if they changed to 13 mm rods in 1990, and they re-coed engines after 1990, would they continue to use old 9 mm rods, or would they rebuild them with the newer spec 13 mm rods? I won't know until I look inside! 
Greg's Gold 1991 240GLE wagon B230FT-to-be
A few more minor tasks done today. I removed the auto trans cooler lines and 4 bolts holding the torque converter to the flex plate. Managed to snap off the terminal on the starter solenoid. Grrr! I think this is the 2nd time I've done that. Not sure why they're so weak or what I'm doing wrong - just put a 13 mm spanner on it and tried to loosen it and it twisted the bakelite plastic part right off. Lucky I have a spare (or 10?)
I was thinking about the crank pulley - noticed on the B230FT donor engine there are 4 small depressions in the outer ring, and only 1 depression on the B230F in the car. I assume maybe they are factory balanced? Hmm. The pulley rubber on the FT looks like it's pretty cracked, so I was planning to use the one off the B230F. Guess it would be a minor imbalance, or maybe the pulleys are balanced by themselves so it doesn't matter which one you put on which engine? I guess that would make more sense?
carnut222 I mean if they changed to 13 mm rods in 1990, and they re-coed engines after 1990, would they continue to use old 9 mm rods, or would they rebuild them with the newer spec 13 mm rods?
My guess is they would have used 13mm rods on the rebuild. 9mm rods were a known point of failure, and when the 13mm rods came on deck, they shared the same part number as the old 9mm rods. Only early K-blocks in year model 1988 had 9mm rods (the parts books say 9mm rods were in "a few engines" when referencing the K-block with its 63mm main bearings).
The Cheat's Way of checking out the rods is by using the mechanical fuel pump cover, below and rear of the distributor boss, as an inspection hatch.
Major Ledfoot That's encouraging then. I'll be happier if it has the larger rods. Thx for tip on fuel pump cover plate for inspection. I'll have a look at the pan and pan gasket and maybe give pulling the pan a miss. Just depends on if I want to do this project quick(er) or thorough and replace all gaskets/seals I guess. Being lazy I might take the "easy" way out LOL!
carnut222 I'd be tempted to do the rear main, aux shaft and front crank seals, along with the sump gasket before it goes into the car. They're the ones most painful to sort out once the engine's installed. Nothing's worse than completing a new engine install and finding leaks.
Major Ledfoot yeah that would be the prudent thing to do!
Got the engine and gearbox separated and engine on engine stand. Removed crank pulley, clutch and flywheel before putting it on the stand. Had a bit of drama with one of the allen head clutch pressure plate bolts - thought I had stripped it with the impact wrench, but was able to loosen it with an allen key and section of pipe for leverage. Everything looks pretty good so far.
9 days later
Making a bit of slow progress. Got the heater hoses, all wiring etc. disconnected and ready to pull the engine out. Of course I borked the firewall pass-through grommet for the ECU/EZK wires. Fark! Oh well, when I put it back in I'll fill it full of silicone sealant! May try to glue the rubber back together before I install it. I unbolted the AC compressor/bracket from the engine and hung it in place so I don't have to de-gas the AC, but the compressor front seal is leaking anyway so eventually that will have to be rectified. Still seems to work fine so guess I'll leave it for the time being. Really stupid as it would be so easy to deal with it while the engine is out LOL! I think I have come to hate working on cars now. 
Got the boat anchor (AKA auto gearbox) out today. No real dramas. The kickdown cable had been a bit sticky over the years requiring some WD40 then ATF poured down it to free it up. Now I know why. Before I pulled the gearbox out, I grabbed the kickdown cable from below and pulled it down so it didn't get stuck on anything. In doing this, I snapped it off at the plastic boss where it goes into the gearbox. Fark! So I cut the end off the cable and slid the sheath off to discover the cable was on its last thread basically due to a rusty/frayed spot, so yeah, miracle that it didn't snap while driving at some stage! Pic attached. The gearbox itself was fine and has less than 150k kms on it if anyone is interested. I'll post it in the for sale section. I believe it's an AW70.
a month later
Anyone want to place bets on whether a standard 240 M46 J-type overdrive rear flange will bolt onto the back of a 740T M46 P-type overdrive? The seal diameter appears to be the same, but not sure whether the P-type output shaft and spline is the same as the J-type. I bet somebody here will know @Major Ledfoot Bob I'm betting you'll know!
- Edited
@carnut222 - I haven't tried it, but if the spline count on the output shaft and diameter is the same, I don't see why it shouldn't.
Greg, looks like you'll have to try it out and be the pioneer for this one!
AFAIK the 1140 and 1310 flanges can interchange on the J-types.
Major Ledfoot Thanks Bob. I'll learn something new to share on this one!
Hmm, I've had both flanges sitting side by side and I think to my eye the splines were the same.
It'll fit.
Most of the J vs P is internal around the dashpots, springs and planet gear. I have spare dashpot piston o'rings if you need them.
geeze im keen on those wheels on the first pic you posted to this thread are they oem volvo or aftermarket?
Swedthusiast Thanks - the wheels are the OE Volvo Polaris alloys. I bought them about 20 years ago used on whatever came before Gumtree. They were in pretty rough condition so I had to have them stripped, straightened, beads welded, then painted. They're definitely one of my favourite wheels. You used to be able to buy the replica wheels (Eiker E1: https://www.eiker.no/produkt/eiker-e1-volvo-75x17-5-108-et20/) but I don't know if they are available anywhere now).
10 days later
Happy engine-out Easter day!
a month later
Got my FCP Euro order of engine gaskets/seals…but been too busy to work on the gold car for a while (Volvo Club magazine. Volvo Club National Rally planning, lots of yard projects). Should get stuck into it again some day!
