If you use 940 ecu's and a 940 thermo controller as well as lh2.4 coolant temp sensor, all you need to do is connect 10 and 11 (high/low speed) on the jetronic (fuel) ecu to the pins on the thermo relay
See diagram https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/9733/bosch-lh-jetronic-2-4-ecu-and-ezk-pinout-tables
The thermofan controller has constant 12v from the battery and the way the fans turn on is by switching them to ground, this makes it easy if you wanted to hook up a manual switch
nugget_940If you use 940 ecu's and a 940 thermo controller as well as lh2.4 coolant temp sensor, all you need to do is connect 10 and 11 (high/low speed) on the jetronic (fuel) ecu to the pins on the thermo relay
See diagram https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/9733/bosch-lh-jetronic-2-4-ecu-and-ezk-pinout-tables
The thermofan controller has constant 12v from the battery and the way the fans turn on is by switching them to ground, this makes it easy if you wanted to hook up a manual switch
Thanks. The fan I have is from an 850 and looks to have a black earth wire and a red and a green wire (I assume +12V for the low and high speeds). I don't have a 940 fan controller so will have to see what it looks like, or whether I can just grab the ECU signals and a couple relays to make it work.
carnut222https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/comment/218921#Comment_218921
Thanks. The fan I have is from an 850 and looks to have a black earth wire and a red and a green wire (I assume +12V for the low and high speeds). I don't have a 940 fan controller so will have to see what it looks like, or whether I can just grab the ECU signals and a couple relays to make it work.
afaik the 850 thermo controllers are the same, otherwise just grab one of these and run it independently to lh2.4, which will likely be the most reliable way. If you dont have the a/c compressor hooked up sometimes it sends the fans psycho https://thermofans.com.au/products/digital-fan-switch-universal-0444
nugget_940https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/comment/218924#Comment_218924
afaik the 850 thermo controllers are the same, otherwise just grab one of these and run it independently to lh2.4, which will likely be the most reliable way. If you dont have the a/c compressor hooked up sometimes it sends the fans psycho https://thermofans.com.au/products/digital-fan-switch-universal-0444
I wondered about that. I do have functioning AC, and on the 91 240 there's a pusher fan in front of the radiator. Wondering if maybe that can be removed if I use the 940/850 fan set-up?
I didn't like having to use the Volvo relays on the last efan I did, I wanted to use a standard off the shelf relay, I think I went with a 40A I think. I didn't wire low speed at all, only high speed, I forget if it's just one wire or both of them together.
@carnut222 if you decide you have too many clutch master cylinders, I will buy one!
Also out of curiosity, maybe you already mentioned and I missed it, are you using a 740T intercooler or something custom/off the shelf/etc?
240@carnut222 if you decide you have too many clutch master cylinders, I will buy one!
Also out of curiosity, maybe you already mentioned and I missed it, are you using a 740T intercooler or something custom/off the shelf/etc?
Just planning to use the 740T intercooler. I probably have a spare new clutch master cylinder, but they are the 740T ones with no integral reservoir (suitable for the later cars with the hose barb off the brake master cylinder reservoir). Lemme know if you'd be interested. I need to see what I paid for them to get you a price.
Oh wow, a year has gone by since I did anything on this LOL! When my parents were here in Nov/Dec, my dad helped me start pulling bits off the gold wagon, including the exhaust, tail shaft. radiator, fan, etc. Today I started pulling apart the donor 740T engine. I pulled the distributor out (anyone need a good used 740 distributor complete? I'll put it in the For Sale area). Also removed inlet manifold and pulled the front mount distributor blanking plug. To mu surprise and delight the intermediate shaft has the distributor gear machined on it, so I guess they either used the machined shafts on the reco engines so they could be used in 740T and 240T, or it was just pot luck as to what parts they used. I haven't gotten the engine on my engine stand yet, but once I do I'll pull the oil pan and see whether it has skinny or 13 mm rods. I'm hoping for the latter, but not too fussed really. I see looking back at this thread that I've had the donor engine since August 2004, so this August it will be 20 years! Maybe I'll have it done by then? Doubt it though as I work slow and we've also got a 5-week trip to USA via Japan before August, plus the National Rally prep is chewing up some of my time too. 
LH 2.2? Probably 9mm rods if 1988-1989
ramrod yes I'd assume 9 mm rods based on it being an 88 740T, however it's a Volvo reconditioned engine - so I don't know when it was reconditioned and with what parts they reconditioned them. I mean if they changed to 13 mm rods in 1990, and they re-coed engines after 1990, would they continue to use old 9 mm rods, or would they rebuild them with the newer spec 13 mm rods? I won't know until I look inside!
A few more minor tasks done today. I removed the auto trans cooler lines and 4 bolts holding the torque converter to the flex plate. Managed to snap off the terminal on the starter solenoid. Grrr! I think this is the 2nd time I've done that. Not sure why they're so weak or what I'm doing wrong - just put a 13 mm spanner on it and tried to loosen it and it twisted the bakelite plastic part right off. Lucky I have a spare (or 10?)
I was thinking about the crank pulley - noticed on the B230FT donor engine there are 4 small depressions in the outer ring, and only 1 depression on the B230F in the car. I assume maybe they are factory balanced? Hmm. The pulley rubber on the FT looks like it's pretty cracked, so I was planning to use the one off the B230F. Guess it would be a minor imbalance, or maybe the pulleys are balanced by themselves so it doesn't matter which one you put on which engine? I guess that would make more sense?
carnut222 I mean if they changed to 13 mm rods in 1990, and they re-coed engines after 1990, would they continue to use old 9 mm rods, or would they rebuild them with the newer spec 13 mm rods?
My guess is they would have used 13mm rods on the rebuild. 9mm rods were a known point of failure, and when the 13mm rods came on deck, they shared the same part number as the old 9mm rods. Only early K-blocks in year model 1988 had 9mm rods (the parts books say 9mm rods were in "a few engines" when referencing the K-block with its 63mm main bearings).
The Cheat's Way of checking out the rods is by using the mechanical fuel pump cover, below and rear of the distributor boss, as an inspection hatch.
Major Ledfoot That's encouraging then. I'll be happier if it has the larger rods. Thx for tip on fuel pump cover plate for inspection. I'll have a look at the pan and pan gasket and maybe give pulling the pan a miss. Just depends on if I want to do this project quick(er) or thorough and replace all gaskets/seals I guess. Being lazy I might take the "easy" way out LOL!
carnut222 I'd be tempted to do the rear main, aux shaft and front crank seals, along with the sump gasket before it goes into the car. They're the ones most painful to sort out once the engine's installed. Nothing's worse than completing a new engine install and finding leaks.
Major Ledfoot yeah that would be the prudent thing to do!
Got the engine and gearbox separated and engine on engine stand. Removed crank pulley, clutch and flywheel before putting it on the stand. Had a bit of drama with one of the allen head clutch pressure plate bolts - thought I had stripped it with the impact wrench, but was able to loosen it with an allen key and section of pipe for leverage. Everything looks pretty good so far.
Making a bit of slow progress. Got the heater hoses, all wiring etc. disconnected and ready to pull the engine out. Of course I borked the firewall pass-through grommet for the ECU/EZK wires. Fark! Oh well, when I put it back in I'll fill it full of silicone sealant! May try to glue the rubber back together before I install it. I unbolted the AC compressor/bracket from the engine and hung it in place so I don't have to de-gas the AC, but the compressor front seal is leaking anyway so eventually that will have to be rectified. Still seems to work fine so guess I'll leave it for the time being. Really stupid as it would be so easy to deal with it while the engine is out LOL! I think I have come to hate working on cars now. 
Got the boat anchor (AKA auto gearbox) out today. No real dramas. The kickdown cable had been a bit sticky over the years requiring some WD40 then ATF poured down it to free it up. Now I know why. Before I pulled the gearbox out, I grabbed the kickdown cable from below and pulled it down so it didn't get stuck on anything. In doing this, I snapped it off at the plastic boss where it goes into the gearbox. Fark! So I cut the end off the cable and slid the sheath off to discover the cable was on its last thread basically due to a rusty/frayed spot, so yeah, miracle that it didn't snap while driving at some stage! Pic attached. The gearbox itself was fine and has less than 150k kms on it if anyone is interested. I'll post it in the for sale section. I believe it's an AW70.
Anyone want to place bets on whether a standard 240 M46 J-type overdrive rear flange will bolt onto the back of a 740T M46 P-type overdrive? The seal diameter appears to be the same, but not sure whether the P-type output shaft and spline is the same as the J-type. I bet somebody here will know @Major Ledfoot Bob I'm betting you'll know!
