I’ll repeat my comment from the other thread … “sexy”! 
What’s the go with the seats? I’ve definitely sat in older 240’s where you can slide the seat back so far a 6’1” person such as myself with disproportionately-long legs can’t touch the firewall even with tippy-toes, but I’ve also sat in 240’s (I think 1986+) which I assume are more like yours?
Forg I'm 6'5", which I think makes all the difference here. In autos it's less of an issue, but with a clutch it's just plain awkward to hit the pedals, and if I'm not careful it can be difficult to actually get my foot on the brake pedal. I usually drive with my shoes off to get the extra bit of clearance. Smaller steering wheel solves it but, because the column has no adjustment, now I can't see the cluster unless I tilt my seat well into the steeze zone. I prefer to sit fairly upright while driving so getting the seat further back seems the best next step (or putting in a nice set of Recaros but they're crazy money these days).
One of my mates in Brisbane is 6'8", 240's were about the only cheap old proper-car he used to fit into(*), for the reason that the seats (and we were talking about older ones) went so far back that even he could just about straighten his leg with foot flat on the firewall (and plus the seats have the up/down adjustment to give enough headroom).
You'd probably have looked into any seat-base differences ages ago by now, I only raise this 'cos if a 6'8" person can fit comfortably into Car A and a 6'5" person is tight in Car B, and the two cars are very very similar (without knowing exactly what year or trim-level Car A is/was unfortunately), there might be some sort of arcane/obscure seat-base or mounting or rails/runners difference.
PS. I don't think the Recaros would necessarily help, I'm using Toyota Smurf Recaros with oddly-affordable-at-the-time new Recaro rails/mounts and I don't think there's any more room than stock - you'd have to fiddle with them too methinks.
(*) Oddly/aside - he was also comfy in the first generation of Renault Clio 2dr they sold in Oz - you could adjust the front seat to touch the back seat, and the front-seat was almost on the floor when you did that.
James. There’s a guy in America that makes something for the 240 seat rails that spaces them back 2 inches I think. I’ll find out who it’s from and let you know if you’d like. I’ll be getting a set for my drivers seats. I put a 350mm steering wheel in and I can’t see all of the Speedo which isn’t ideal.
Yeah I know the product you're talking about. It would be something like $400 landed, it's much cheaper for me to make my own given I'm pretty sure I already have all the materials I need in the workshop. I just need to get around to it!
They look the perfect mix of retro & race-car … it’s the sort of thing which you saw in 70’s race cars, and yet it’s a factory part, so Smurfy!
jamesinc if you make another one I will buy
So today I got loads done, and now I'm exhausted. Put 70km of city driving on Momo after changing the shocks, bleeding the brakes, and replacing the rear spring upper bushings.
Car rides so much better on the HDs, it had too much spring for the OE-spec KYB shocks (PS if anyone wants a pretty much new set of 4 x KYBs for $120, DM me).
Replaced the passenger side axle inner seal today, I did the driver's side a few months ago but procrastinated on this one as it hadn't failed. Still, glad I did as it was pretty stiff. I also threw some new parking brake hardware on which has eliminated an annoying clunk, the old parking brake shoes were binding up or something, I'm not surprised the springs were rusty, I pulled on one with my pliers and it deformed really easily.
Didn't take many photos unfortunately. I gave everything a thorough rinsing in brake cleaner, buttoned it back up, adjusted the shoes, and haven't been able to reproduce the clunk since, happy days.
Next task, a clunk has started developing on the front left corner, need to investigate what's going on. The suspension is pretty fresh, I'm wondering if maybe the gland nut on the shock has backed itself off a bit. Stay tuned for the thrilling conclusion!
I went back to the driver's side handbrake to replace the hardware there too:
Onto the next thing - at some point in the past, the rear mudflap brackets were cut. I originally just made up an extra bracket but it wasn't up to the abuse and the mudflaps were falling off after less than a year.
So, I opted to do it properly and weld on new brackets:
I scraped off the underbody coating and marked the spot welds out:
I drilled out the spot welds using a spot weld drill bit, and separated the old brackets:
I drilled too deep in a couple of places and went through the body:
Over on the passenger side, I found some rust I didn't know about, and decided fixing it was worth the scope creep:
I cut cut away the rust and welded a patch on top. Because of the tight access and the fact that it's not visible anywhere (it will be underneath seam sealer by the end), I just oversized the patch slightly and lap jointed it. I took care of a pinhole I found at the same time:
I plugged the holes on the driver's side also, and chased a couple of holes around.
Finally! I was able to weld on the new passenger side mud flap bracket:
This is where I got to yesterday. It got too late to be using the grinder, so I will be back at it over the next couple of days.
Once the other mud flap is installed, I will fix up the seam sealer and then paint everything. I'm going to paint the butt cheeks with an enamel satin black, and paint the wheel wells and mudflap brackets with some stoneguard paint.
That triple joint point in the boot (photo #7) is a very common rust spot for 140/164s and 240s. It's where inner guard meets outer guard meets boot floor panel.
Major Ledfoot yeah, if anything this 244 has surprisingly little rust in the area. On the driver's side it's tip top (although the same can't be said for the front corner of the wheel arch).
Just looked at Skandix site and the mudflaps themselves are only 45 euros aprox, shipping to Oz 95 euros up to 20kg!! Did you take advantage of the weight inclusion? 
(apart from the brackets of course)
OS freight charges are such a pain in the rectum for "Rest of the world", group buys are deffo the way to go to mitigate this, I've got so many bit and and bobs to fit to my wagon that I'm not looking for any parts at the moment but www.volvo340onderdelen.nl are having a closing down sale until the end of this month which sorely tempts me….
Got the driver's side welded on last night after much chasing of pinholes. Need to grind it all back then get to painting. Ready for the weekend I hope!
Scope creep
Miss having a welder , so handy .
Good work there looking good . Good you found the little rust on the passenger side while under there . Looking forward to seeing it all black .
I'm just waiting for a new tin of brushable seam sealer, hopefully it arrives before the weekend.
Can you take a shot of the can when it arrives (as I'll have to tackle my own corrosion scope creep some time in the near future)…
rado it has a tiny bit of give in it when dry
@Porkchop I use U-Pol Grey Stripe brushable seam sealer. I first used it on my yellow 244 to seal up the gutter seams after repairing them, that was 12 years ago and it hasn't deteriorated at all!
It's not quite the same as the chewing gum like sealer the factory used, but it brushes on with a similar texture, and it's designed to be painted over so it looks pretty factory when all is said and done.
Thanks James, found this site: https://rico.com.au/products/u-pol-grey-stripe-brushable-seam-sealer but they won't ship to Tas, I'm guessing air freight is the issue. Not sure where else to buy if that's the case, this brand is showing as shippable but not sure if it's like for like? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/295515539772? Yet another option https://crashsupplies.com/product/soudal-seam-sealer-brushable-1kg-102352/ …..
Porkchop they won't ship to Tas,
You're LST area, yeah? Rare Spares in Invermay is the hot ticket for U-Pol products.
Much obliged, I'm actually in the south but have a brother in Lonnie I visit from time to time, I'll have a look when I'm up there next, thanks!
@Porkchop I bought it from VG Auto Paints who posted it (pure time management from me as they're only 20 minutes away). If you run into a dead end let me know, I'm happy to post stuff down.
You're a champ!
Scope creep
I painted the butt cheeks over the weekend with some satin black enamel. I still need to repair the rear lip, just waiting on some steel sheet to arrive.
At last, 1.2mm cold rolled Zincanneal sheet ready to become future Volvo.
Well, at least the mud flap repairs are finished!
The back of the car, not so much...
I got the last pair of 242GT mudflaps in the country (according to the really helpful enthusiastic parts interpreter at the Volvo dealer in Hurstville 25-ish years ago) (they're the same amount shorter than the 244/245 ones as the GT is lower), but I still get mudflap scrapes all the time (like when there's a mid-corner undulation in the road and I've been surprised by a highway patrol BMW coming the other way & I'm doing 20 over the limit so I'm more worried about the police than my driving) ... the metal mounts don't need repairs, but I can understand how they'd need it!
Total noob question, where does one get a chunk of 1.2mm cold rolled Zincanneal sheet like that?
Forg Edcon Steel, they have a few locations around Sydney and their online shop is really good too edconsteel.com.au
The passenger corner looks like it has been in a crash at some point, there's quite a lot of filler! I'm not planning to scope creep any further so I'll work around this as much as possible.
Okay so sheet metal shrinker/stretcher. I bought one of these recently, it cost $190 I think, and the only thing that I'm annoyed about is that I didn't buy one years ago, they are really nice, and easy to use, my first test piece came out great with maybe 5 minutes or so worth of going back and forth with the stretcher:
Still pretty slow progress, I'm in the last week of my current project at work so things are busy, next week I think thing will go quiet and I'll get this finished.
In semi-related news, the parts hoarding for a B21ET build continues. At this point I have pretty much everything except for a turbo manifold and turbo itself.
jamesinc Okay so sheet metal shrinker/stretcher. I bought one of these recently, it cost $190 I think, and the only thing that I'm annoyed about is that I didn't buy one years ago, they are really nice, and easy to use, my first test piece came out great with maybe 5 minutes or so worth of going back and forth with the stretcher:
Has always confounded me how these things work. I mean, my brain understands the concept but always seems totally confused at the end result. That thing looks brilliant!
