James's 1977 244 DL "Momo"

jamesinc · 2019-07-01T12:34:00+00:00

I flew to Melbourne and bought this non-runner, and had a great time fixing it on the spot and driving it back to Sydney on a permit. Ran out...

jamesinc

@Massey165 I don't have an ES! I wish.

I went and bought some 8.8 grade M14 thread, and now I have no money. Had to buy 1m, but only need 20cm. $80 😭

But, sure enough, with the much improved tensile strength of the bushing extractor, the remaining bushing popped right out.

Threw everything back together, adjusted the handbrake as I'd been meaning to do it for ages anyway, and took Momo for a test drive and, my god, what a difference. The harshness in the rear end has evaporated like magic.

So, at this point, the rear suspension is completely done ✅✅, at last, with every bushing now refreshed, along with the shocks and springs. The panhard rod is urethane but everything else is OE-spec rubber.

In the front, I still need to replace the front control arm bushings, as well as the sway bar mounts, which will happen in the next few weeks.

jamesinc

Went to Eastwood for some ice cream, wow wow wow, I think it has broken me out of a real funk that started with the overdrive back in July - I'm loving driving Momo again! Still too slow though. I think a B21E with a K cam, 38mm exhaust valves on a 405 head, and a reasonably free flowing exhaust can do better, especially in the mid/high end.

Maybe equal length runners and a new ignition system? 💸💸💸

jamesinc

New sway bars and bushings.

Front is likely an old aftermarket, it measured 22.3mm. I'm using 21mm Superpro bushings and the fit is good. End links I'm using poly bushings from VP Autoparts. Rear is 21mm.

The front bar was beat up when I got it (from the Lupica Motors garage sale), and had bare metal and a bit of pitting around the bushings, so I had it blasted and powdercoated to give it the best chance at longevity.

The original bars are 17mm rear and 18mm front.

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Very happy with the result, the car is much nicer in the corners now.

jamesinc

Did a small quality-of-life upgrade for Momo last week, the A/C system works great, but if you leave it switched on, the compressor will be engaged when you next try to start the car. So you have to remember to switch it on and off.

I found on AliExpress some relays that introduce a 10 second delay on the output, they were $6 each.

I picked up the +12V and ground from the fuel pump relay output, and used that to trigger the relay. The relay then sits in series with the supply from the fuse box to the A/C switch. Now the A/C stays off until 10 seconds after the car starts cranking. Much better!

While doing this I also found that the original A/C install used a bunch of generic wiring harness, and there was a good 1.5m of extra cabling stuffed in the passenger footwell, so removed all the excess. As a result, even with this new feature, I think I have achieved a net weight reduction 😂

jamesinc

So finally dealing with that axle seal from a few posts back.

Volvo 240 rear axle RHS tube end showing inner seal

The old one was pretty cooked, the seal lip is hard

Volvo 240 inner axle seal old and new

The outer seal is in better condition, which I'm grateful for because it means I don't need to pull the wheel bearings.

I ran out of lunch break so I'll come back to this tonight, just need to clean the wheel bearing and re-grease it then slap it back together.

jamesinc

Finally got around to a small job, replacing the mesh under the driver's seat. The old one was well and truly done.

Volvo 240 driver's seat underside

(PS yes I did fix the tangled up seat support up the top of the photo before installing the seat again)

Major Ledfoot

jamesinc where did you score the seat support mesh?

jamesinc

Skandix sell it, 30 euro https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/body/interior-equipment/seats/supporting-course-upholstery-front-seat-seat-surface/1018082/

jamesinc

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Caved and got an R-Sport cluster. To be honest, what put me over the line is that I can't easily see my speedo with the original cluster, due to a combination of my height and the small steering wheel. This cluster is much better, although I think I am still going to extend the seat rail another inch or two back.

242GT

jamesinc I forgot how good they look new and installed

Johnno_

jamesinc Caved and got an R-Sport cluster.

Oh man that looks sick!

(I've just worked out how to use quotes on this forum)

Clive740

jamesinc Very cool James. Nice one.

Forg

I’ll repeat my comment from the other thread … “sexy”! 🙂

What’s the go with the seats? I’ve definitely sat in older 240’s where you can slide the seat back so far a 6’1” person such as myself with disproportionately-long legs can’t touch the firewall even with tippy-toes, but I’ve also sat in 240’s (I think 1986+) which I assume are more like yours?

jamesinc

Forg I'm 6'5", which I think makes all the difference here. In autos it's less of an issue, but with a clutch it's just plain awkward to hit the pedals, and if I'm not careful it can be difficult to actually get my foot on the brake pedal. I usually drive with my shoes off to get the extra bit of clearance. Smaller steering wheel solves it but, because the column has no adjustment, now I can't see the cluster unless I tilt my seat well into the steeze zone. I prefer to sit fairly upright while driving so getting the seat further back seems the best next step (or putting in a nice set of Recaros but they're crazy money these days).

Forg

One of my mates in Brisbane is 6'8", 240's were about the only cheap old proper-car he used to fit into(*), for the reason that the seats (and we were talking about older ones) went so far back that even he could just about straighten his leg with foot flat on the firewall (and plus the seats have the up/down adjustment to give enough headroom).

You'd probably have looked into any seat-base differences ages ago by now, I only raise this 'cos if a 6'8" person can fit comfortably into Car A and a 6'5" person is tight in Car B, and the two cars are very very similar (without knowing exactly what year or trim-level Car A is/was unfortunately), there might be some sort of arcane/obscure seat-base or mounting or rails/runners difference.

PS. I don't think the Recaros would necessarily help, I'm using Toyota Smurf Recaros with oddly-affordable-at-the-time new Recaro rails/mounts and I don't think there's any more room than stock - you'd have to fiddle with them too methinks.

(*) Oddly/aside - he was also comfy in the first generation of Renault Clio 2dr they sold in Oz - you could adjust the front seat to touch the back seat, and the front-seat was almost on the floor when you did that. 🙂

Roastyleg

James. There’s a guy in America that makes something for the 240 seat rails that spaces them back 2 inches I think. I’ll find out who it’s from and let you know if you’d like. I’ll be getting a set for my drivers seats. I put a 350mm steering wheel in and I can’t see all of the Speedo which isn’t ideal.

jamesinc

Yeah I know the product you're talking about. It would be something like $400 landed, it's much cheaper for me to make my own given I'm pretty sure I already have all the materials I need in the workshop. I just need to get around to it!

Roastyleg

jamesinc if you make another one I will buy 🙂

Forg

They look the perfect mix of retro & race-car … it’s the sort of thing which you saw in 70’s race cars, and yet it’s a factory part, so Smurfy!

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