René's 164E project

Major Ledfoot thank you for the reply!

Being a Mercedes mechanic by trade I’m very familiar with the D jet system (as to why I took on a non runner). The mechanical side of things don’t phase me.

I have discovered rust inside the double panel on the upper inner guard, under the tail lights, under the windscreen and on the seam under the bonnet rubber, front left corner of the rear quarter window, boot wells and lid and under the doors.

I live in central Victoria so I purchased the car sight unseen ( naturally the owner made it sound really really good) apparently it was at his mechanic’s house and he had done things to the car (I’m yet to find anything further than unplugging the fuel pump. ( the car came with 1/4 tank of stale fuel at no extra cost. Oh the stench).

Thus far I have drained the tank and cleaned the pump. I await delivery of fuel line, filter ect. As with any car that has sat for a long period I start at the fuel tank and work my way forward.

Regards René.

If you know D-Jet, that's awesome.

The rust points you mention are common. Check out @jamesinc's build threads for his 240s, Momo and Amy under "Rides" - he's done a lot of rust repairs in the same areas.

240 75-77 and 140 74+ doors will fit straight on. 240 78+ won't - different locking mechanism.

Windscreen surround panel and top scuttle panel rust are commonly caused by the the ridiculous metal clips (rust clips, I call 'em) which hold the windscreen and the mud-collectors (aka windscreen surround brightwork moulds) in place. A 91+ 240 windscreen with the single piece neoprene seal is my preferred solution, but some prefer keeping the mud collectors, rust clips (which are now hard to obtain) and the butyl mess to hold in the screen. If you replace the screen with the better later version, you'll need to plug up the holes in the surround in which the rust clips used to sit.

The late model 240 fuel tanks will fit into a 74, but they have a lift pump and swirl pot inside. The later fuel tanks were retrofitted to 74 models in the USA as a service option because of vapor lock issues. See PDF.

Note also the 74 model fuel tanks have an in-tank filter - that's what the huge brass plug with the square socket-like hole is for. It will most likely not have been looked at anytime this century and my bet is it's falling apart. VP Autoparts stock replacements if you want one. The later 240 tanks don't have this plug or filter.

Major Ledfoot I have removed the brass plug and there were no remains of a filter in there so my guess is that it was removed and never replaced. I have decided not to replace it (I am awaiting a delivery of loctite 567 to replace the brass plug). I have also ordered a 2in long 30 micron fuel filter with a removable element to put in place between the suction line of the fuel tank and the fuel pump.

I definitely plan on replacing the screen with the later version screen and rubber. My plan is to remove the screen and drill out all the spot welds and remove the cowl under the windscreen right down to where it is spot welded where the bonnet rubber sits to repair the rust. I also want to gain access to clean out the plenum chamber and treat it for rust.

When I gain access I am also toying with the idea of a wire grate below the fins to prevent larger debris from falling through and blocking the drains.

Thank you very kindly, you are a wealth of knowledge. René.

@René164 , Great to hear of another 164 being saved. I might be able to help with some parts you are after (guards and wheels). I am currently working on a 164 and the project I got came with a lot of spares (about 20 boxes of parts of a second car).

I am also located in central Victoria, not far out from Castlemaine.

AdrianH oh wow I’m in Maryborough. I would be happy to touch bases with you. I’m happy to hear someone so close is also saving another 164.

Regards René.

I had a look at some of the parts I have. There are two guards, some dents but sound metal.

An example of one of the spare wheels, should have a set of 4.

I have a nose cone but it has been cut up a bit, looks like trying to change from the smaller later grille to the larger earlier one.

Happy to assist if there are parts you need that I have on hand. I would be good to catch up and check out the projects.

@René164 , must be a good feeling to have the engine running. I have a couple of radiators on hand if you are interested.

René164 Nice work there.

Since this is becoming a build thread now, I'm going to re-tag this thread from [Trading Post] [Radar] to [Rides].

Great cars the 164 , check for cracks in front cross member they are known to vend due to 6cyl cast block weight.
Change your diff oil and put an engine oil cooler on it due to Australian temps.
Flush gearbox oil and replace auto fluid .
Any Holden Hg, hk etc alloy rims will fit

Cooling is a problem in the 164 in OZ.

Replace the thermostat if you haven't already done so.

Flush the cooling system and re-core the radiator.

Add a transmission cooler and maybe bypass the radiator cooling of the transmission.

Add an electric fan in front of the radiator.

Check out some of the things I have done on Viktoria, my 1974 164E.

carnut222 thank you so much for the offer. I will definitely keep it in mind. I am so grateful for all the help I have received so far on the forum.

As it is a fresh project I am still assessing the car so I’m not 100% sure what I will be needing.

I have found a cracked RH headlight and the cables that drive the RH headlight wipers are broken.

I have found the RH side has taken a knock at some point and the bracket that holds the headlight wiper is bent. My bumper bar also sits slightly to the left and upon inspection I have found the RH bumper bracket is also bent ( the one the bolts to the bar).

Slowly slowly I will more than likely find little bit and pieces that need doing.

René…