René's 164E project

Hi everyone, new to the group. I purchased this car now I’m looking for some parts for it. I’m after a rust free bonnet, boot lid, right hand front guard and a nose cone and 4 rims. Any leads on 164 parts would be greatly appreciated.

This car has sat for many years the rims very rusty and pitted half way up. All the hoses in the fuel system need replacing. So far I have dismantled the fuel pump and cleaned it and freed it up to a running state(yet to test).

I am a mechanic by trade so I’m a little overwhelmed by the bits and pieces of rust I have found and I feel like I’m 100 years behind in leads to parts for these cars. My first car was a 1970 144 that I bought at 12 years old but unfortunately has been sitting for 15 years untouched. For 30 years I have wanted a 164 since I bought my first Volvo (finally got one for my 42nd birthday lol).

Now the task of trying to find the bits to fix it up.

Thanks for any help everyone.

René164 Welcome!

First link you need - https://ozvolvo.org/archive/archive.php - this is the Tech Archive. Suggest you download the parts book (it covers 1969 to 1975 models) and there's also the Green Book (factory repair manual) for the 74 164. You can get the part numbers from the parts book too.

Locally (in .au) for body panels, etc - try:
VolDat Auto in Melbourne
Monash Prestige (also MEL)
Berry Motor Group (you guessed it, in MEL)

Others you'll need -
GCP - www.gcp.se - classic parts from Volvo's old car parts supplier
VP Autoparts - they have a USA and a Swedish web store.
Skandix - skandix.de - in Deutschland, so bulk orders are recommended as shipping isn't cheap.
FCP Euro - has a lot of consumable stuff which hasn't been superseded
iPD in the USA - ipdusa.com - has some bits of use

The 74 164 has many body panels common to 75 to 77 year model 240s from the windscreen back.

The D-Jetronic fuel pumps are a known failure item (well, s'pose a lot of electrical things are, when they're 51 years old...) and the manifold pressure sensor in the engine bay is also a known failure item. For the magic of D-Jet, see link below:

https://jetronic.org/en/d-jetronic

Hope you'll let us all know how you go with your project.

Major Ledfoot thank you for the reply!

Being a Mercedes mechanic by trade I’m very familiar with the D jet system (as to why I took on a non runner). The mechanical side of things don’t phase me.

I have discovered rust inside the double panel on the upper inner guard, under the tail lights, under the windscreen and on the seam under the bonnet rubber, front left corner of the rear quarter window, boot wells and lid and under the doors.

I live in central Victoria so I purchased the car sight unseen ( naturally the owner made it sound really really good) apparently it was at his mechanic’s house and he had done things to the car (I’m yet to find anything further than unplugging the fuel pump. ( the car came with 1/4 tank of stale fuel at no extra cost. Oh the stench).

Thus far I have drained the tank and cleaned the pump. I await delivery of fuel line, filter ect. As with any car that has sat for a long period I start at the fuel tank and work my way forward.

Regards René.

If you know D-Jet, that's awesome.

The rust points you mention are common. Check out @jamesinc's build threads for his 240s, Momo and Amy under "Rides" - he's done a lot of rust repairs in the same areas.

240 75-77 and 140 74+ doors will fit straight on. 240 78+ won't - different locking mechanism.

Windscreen surround panel and top scuttle panel rust are commonly caused by the the ridiculous metal clips (rust clips, I call 'em) which hold the windscreen and the mud-collectors (aka windscreen surround brightwork moulds) in place. A 91+ 240 windscreen with the single piece neoprene seal is my preferred solution, but some prefer keeping the mud collectors, rust clips (which are now hard to obtain) and the butyl mess to hold in the screen. If you replace the screen with the better later version, you'll need to plug up the holes in the surround in which the rust clips used to sit.

The late model 240 fuel tanks will fit into a 74, but they have a lift pump and swirl pot inside. The later fuel tanks were retrofitted to 74 models in the USA as a service option because of vapor lock issues. See PDF.

Note also the 74 model fuel tanks have an in-tank filter - that's what the huge brass plug with the square socket-like hole is for. It will most likely not have been looked at anytime this century and my bet is it's falling apart. VP Autoparts stock replacements if you want one. The later 240 tanks don't have this plug or filter.

Major Ledfoot I have removed the brass plug and there were no remains of a filter in there so my guess is that it was removed and never replaced. I have decided not to replace it (I am awaiting a delivery of loctite 567 to replace the brass plug). I have also ordered a 2in long 30 micron fuel filter with a removable element to put in place between the suction line of the fuel tank and the fuel pump.

I definitely plan on replacing the screen with the later version screen and rubber. My plan is to remove the screen and drill out all the spot welds and remove the cowl under the windscreen right down to where it is spot welded where the bonnet rubber sits to repair the rust. I also want to gain access to clean out the plenum chamber and treat it for rust.

When I gain access I am also toying with the idea of a wire grate below the fins to prevent larger debris from falling through and blocking the drains.

Thank you very kindly, you are a wealth of knowledge. René.

@René164 , Great to hear of another 164 being saved. I might be able to help with some parts you are after (guards and wheels). I am currently working on a 164 and the project I got came with a lot of spares (about 20 boxes of parts of a second car).

I am also located in central Victoria, not far out from Castlemaine.

AdrianH oh wow I’m in Maryborough. I would be happy to touch bases with you. I’m happy to hear someone so close is also saving another 164.

Regards René.

I had a look at some of the parts I have. There are two guards, some dents but sound metal.

An example of one of the spare wheels, should have a set of 4.

I have a nose cone but it has been cut up a bit, looks like trying to change from the smaller later grille to the larger earlier one.

Happy to assist if there are parts you need that I have on hand. I would be good to catch up and check out the projects.

@René164 , must be a good feeling to have the engine running. I have a couple of radiators on hand if you are interested.

Major Ledfoot thank you very much. I am not really familiar with blog posting so I appreciate all the help I can get.

René…

Great cars the 164 , check for cracks in front cross member they are known to vend due to 6cyl cast block weight.
Change your diff oil and put an engine oil cooler on it due to Australian temps.
Flush gearbox oil and replace auto fluid .
Any Holden Hg, hk etc alloy rims will fit

Cooling is a problem in the 164 in OZ.

Replace the thermostat if you haven't already done so.

Flush the cooling system and re-core the radiator.

Add a transmission cooler and maybe bypass the radiator cooling of the transmission.

Add an electric fan in front of the radiator.

Check out some of the things I have done on Viktoria, my 1974 164E.