1974 144 GL
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Major Ledfoot Yeah, I'm guessing the single carb Webber kit from IPD isn't going to be great.
Yeah I'm aware working with such an old system is going to be a big and potentially expensive job, its a little daunting and almost makes me think of avoiding it all together. Not really interested in replacing the injection system with something aftermarket, I'd rather just go with original bits.
I have a 1975 244 DL with the 4 speed manual and drove it 4 hours no problem, doesn't have a tachometer so I didn't know it was revving so high, but I didn't find it a problem at all. I suppose the main reason id go with the manual is to make it more zippy. I have plenty of AW71 and M40s, but not an M41.
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1971_144GL Hey, I am interested, problem is I don't even know what the parts list of a full k-jet system would even be. I understand stuff on old cars cost money, and selling old parts is a hassle, and I'm willing to pay accordingly, although it'd be great if I could get a guestimate of the sort of money you would want for a full system first. Just so I can assess my options before taking up your time.
Thanks.
No worries. I will take a look. I'm not waiting to make much money , but my days of chasing around for half a day or using half tank of fuel and being offered $20 with postage are over. Mostly I have just started chucking stuff now.
I think I have a couple of bonnets in Melbourne.
You don't need to chase a part list , I know them off the top of my head. I will look for a good set. I do know I don't have the main nylon fuel line that goes under the body to the the filter and or the throttle cable…. Unless there is one still on a manifold.
+1 fot the AW71 conversion idea. Not a fun car on BW35. I will buy some plates if they get made.
Rory Yeah, I'm guessing the single carb Webber kit from IPD isn't going to be great.
I'd avoid that kit like a Camry in an overtaking lane. They're absolute crap and very expensive.
Seems like my fellow Taswegian @1971_144GL has some surplus 140 K-Jet parts so you're in luck.
Whatever you do, don't lose that trim mold strip from the leading edge of the bonnet - they're unobtanium.
The B21 engine in the 244 at revs is a lot quieter than the B20 in the 144.
1971_144GL Yeah that's totally fair, not looking for a bargain, I'm looking for rare parts for a car I'm trying to fix. I think some people forget the difference, especially with Volvos, they expect everything to cost nothing. I will need the throttle cable, id imagine i could probably use a non-original fuel line right, its just a fuel hose?
Major Ledfoot thanks for letting me know about the trim piece, its a little damaged but its still usable.
Makes sense the pushrod engine would rev louder, i just have little interest in owning another automatic, possibly with the different diff ratio on the automatic cars + some larger diameter tires it would be better at highway speeds? obviously compromising low speed drivability. That or i just make it a city car, so high speed rpm isn't a problem. The AW71 conversion sounds like an interesting idea, although, again, i don't have much interest in owning another auto.
Maybe once its repaired i will list it for sale, I'll probably loose money on it, but it was too nice of a car to let it go at auction, and its too nice a car to part out.
I have a complete 74 model kjet car, runs and drives, just got some rust from sitting under a car cover close to the sea.
The interior is in good condition also.
Just did some learning on the k-jet system, think im definitely going to go with it, seems like a fun system to work with, especially as someone studying mechanical engineering haha.
I started to have a look on the weekend. There is a full set with a car I have, but I am going to look in the parts first for another set. Unless you are picking up a whole spare care, which is often the best way .
Thanks, ill let you know if i end up getting the full parts car.
Made a discovery toda
Ah.
The Rust Clips - which, together with A Mess Of Butyl - hold in the windscreen on pre-1980s cars - have done what they usually do, again: caused the scuttle panel to corrode and make a horrible mess.
You'll need to remove the windscreen and effect rust repairs.
New Rust Clips are hard to find these days, so IMHO you're best off replacing the windscreen with the late 240 type with the single piece neoprene seal. You won't be able to fit the Mud & Dust Collectors (aka stainless windscreen surround trim) with this new type of seal. You'll also need to plug up the holes in the screen surround where the Rust Clips used to fit.
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Yeah, was considering just replacing it with the late model windscreen, won't have the nice chrome, but at least it won't rust. It's a pretty rust-free car, I'm guessing the main cause of it being this bad would be a combination of a dodgy windscreen replacement as well as the previous owners attempts to cover it up when it started to show, just trapping moisture making it worse. Even the wells in the boot on this car are rust free.
Has anyone here repaired similar rust recently? how much does a repair like this cost? I'm guessing somewhere in the realm of over 2 grand considering it would take quite a large amount of metal work. Joys of owning a 50-year-old car I suppose, if only it was as untouched as my 244, I guess I can't complain, I've gotten away with buying 2x 50-year-old cars at online salvage auction without either having any significant rust.
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There is also a pretty minor dent on the left rear quarter thats been unessesarily repaired with an equally unnessesary amount of bondo, luckily its not caused any rust yet
. I will probably just try tapping it out a little myself, sand it down and respray it. Wont be perfect, b
ut its an old car, you cant expect it to be. For the time being ive just sprayed it with lanolin to prote
ct it.
Hey guys,
Managed to get my hands on a parts car and I've started reassembling the kjet system, was looking at replacing the nylon hose for the injectors as well as the hose that goes to the fuel tank. From what i understand these are 3.5mm hoses. Ive managed to find some 3mm hose at Repco, any Kjet guru's know if this will work?
For low pressure 3.5mm you could use something like this.
https://www.chainsawspares.com.au/fuel-hose-3.5mm-x-6mm-x-5m?srsltid=AfmBOop2jY6ywkUWnosqs0ybF0bRhREfj_v3FCsYyDKRL_PjaUXhavvH
But for high pressure, you may be better off using Fleece Performance 3.5 mm ID / 8mm OD line.