timbo B20E and B20F (US market) year model 1974 140s were K-Jet.
Up to 1973, injected 140s were D-Jet.
No 1800E or ES left the factory with K-Jet.
1974 144 GL
Rory
Your best bet for an economic revival of this car would be getting a factory B20B manifold with twin SU HIF6 or Stromberg 175 CD 2SE carbs.
Downdraught Webers on these cars are absolute crap.
If you wanted to keep in as an injected engine, going with something like MS3 would be the way I'd suggest you go. That way, you can re-use the inlet manifold, but would need to fit electronic injectors, etc. From a non-expert's POV, the finished product will look reasonably stock standard.
Remember that the K-Jet parts for these cars are now 50 years old. Many are NLA and what is available is very expensive.
If you do decide to restore the K-Jet, you'll need a new 5 Bar fuel pump - either now or later. I'd also consider replacing the fuel tank with one from a 1978+ fuel injection 240, which has an inbuilt swirl pot and lift pump.
The 1974 B20E head is a very good casting, with slightly better flowing intake ports from factory than the previous castings. A little bit of head work will get very good results.
Unless you're replacing the BW35 auto transmission with an M41 4+OD box, I wouldn't bother - the 4-speed M40 with 1:1 top runs at about 3600 RPM at highway speed. Only thing about doing an M41 replacement is you'll need not only the manual pedal box, but the correct gearbox crossmember, which is different to BW25 or M40. If I wanted to keep it auto, I'd fit an AW71 with an upright adapter ring*** - that way, I'd have an overdriven top gear.
FWIW, I have a 1974 145 K-Jet project, which unfortunately hasn't progressed very far as yet.
https://ozvolvo.org/d/2938-2938
It's also K-Jet, and it starts and runs, but there's a lot of rust to take care of before it's ready for roadworthy.
*** Yes; I have a vested interest there - I'm presently arranging to get a run of AW70/71/72 upright adapter rings made here in OZ. Details soon, but hope to make an announcement in about 3 weeks as to price and availability.
I have three, maybe four complete ( if I remember) k-Jet systems sitting in box's/tubs. I would need to take a closer look. A full set of parts would add up to a fair bit, but I guess, so do well set up carburettors. I will have a look if interested.
I haver the same car resting idle and with one of those aftermarket electronic injection systems fitted in place of the k-jet. I think it might be "megasquirt" and I had it running for a few minutes when I loaded the car on a trailer. I think the k-jet is still in the boot. It might be another option. The main problem for me is that lost wages/time to forage out old parts usually costs much more that I would make for the parts.
144 cars are much underrated still and I personally enjoy the simplicity of k-jet and the absence of electronic fuel injection problems. I'm still thinking of installing it on a 74 wagon I have.
Anyway, fun project whichever way you go.
Very rare 74 GL , looks great except for fire damage. I’d just get another engine and have the front re sprayed.
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Major Ledfoot Yeah, I'm guessing the single carb Webber kit from IPD isn't going to be great.
Yeah I'm aware working with such an old system is going to be a big and potentially expensive job, its a little daunting and almost makes me think of avoiding it all together. Not really interested in replacing the injection system with something aftermarket, I'd rather just go with original bits.
I have a 1975 244 DL with the 4 speed manual and drove it 4 hours no problem, doesn't have a tachometer so I didn't know it was revving so high, but I didn't find it a problem at all. I suppose the main reason id go with the manual is to make it more zippy. I have plenty of AW71 and M40s, but not an M41.
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1971_144GL Hey, I am interested, problem is I don't even know what the parts list of a full k-jet system would even be. I understand stuff on old cars cost money, and selling old parts is a hassle, and I'm willing to pay accordingly, although it'd be great if I could get a guestimate of the sort of money you would want for a full system first. Just so I can assess my options before taking up your time.
Thanks.
No worries. I will take a look. I'm not waiting to make much money , but my days of chasing around for half a day or using half tank of fuel and being offered $20 with postage are over. Mostly I have just started chucking stuff now.
I think I have a couple of bonnets in Melbourne.
You don't need to chase a part list , I know them off the top of my head. I will look for a good set. I do know I don't have the main nylon fuel line that goes under the body to the the filter and or the throttle cable…. Unless there is one still on a manifold.
+1 fot the AW71 conversion idea. Not a fun car on BW35. I will buy some plates if they get made.
Rory Yeah, I'm guessing the single carb Webber kit from IPD isn't going to be great.
I'd avoid that kit like a Camry in an overtaking lane. They're absolute crap and very expensive.
Seems like my fellow Taswegian @1971_144GL has some surplus 140 K-Jet parts so you're in luck.
Whatever you do, don't lose that trim mold strip from the leading edge of the bonnet - they're unobtanium.
The B21 engine in the 244 at revs is a lot quieter than the B20 in the 144.
1971_144GL Yeah that's totally fair, not looking for a bargain, I'm looking for rare parts for a car I'm trying to fix. I think some people forget the difference, especially with Volvos, they expect everything to cost nothing. I will need the throttle cable, id imagine i could probably use a non-original fuel line right, its just a fuel hose?
Major Ledfoot thanks for letting me know about the trim piece, its a little damaged but its still usable.
Makes sense the pushrod engine would rev louder, i just have little interest in owning another automatic, possibly with the different diff ratio on the automatic cars + some larger diameter tires it would be better at highway speeds? obviously compromising low speed drivability. That or i just make it a city car, so high speed rpm isn't a problem. The AW71 conversion sounds like an interesting idea, although, again, i don't have much interest in owning another auto.
Maybe once its repaired i will list it for sale, I'll probably loose money on it, but it was too nice of a car to let it go at auction, and its too nice a car to part out.
I have a complete 74 model kjet car, runs and drives, just got some rust from sitting under a car cover close to the sea.
The interior is in good condition also.
Just did some learning on the k-jet system, think im definitely going to go with it, seems like a fun system to work with, especially as someone studying mechanical engineering haha.
I started to have a look on the weekend. There is a full set with a car I have, but I am going to look in the parts first for another set. Unless you are picking up a whole spare care, which is often the best way .
Thanks, ill let you know if i end up getting the full parts car.
Made a discovery toda
Ah.
The Rust Clips - which, together with A Mess Of Butyl - hold in the windscreen on pre-1980s cars - have done what they usually do, again: caused the scuttle panel to corrode and make a horrible mess.
You'll need to remove the windscreen and effect rust repairs.
New Rust Clips are hard to find these days, so IMHO you're best off replacing the windscreen with the late 240 type with the single piece neoprene seal. You won't be able to fit the Mud & Dust Collectors (aka stainless windscreen surround trim) with this new type of seal. You'll also need to plug up the holes in the screen surround where the Rust Clips used to fit.