Greg's Gold 1991 240GLE wagon B230FT-M46

Major Ledfoot

Looking forward to seeing progress on this project - if your past ones are a guide of what to expect, lots of good photos and reading are in store for us.

Thanks Bob. At the moment I'm playing Tetris with cars and parts, which meant a few distractions...decided to play wheel bingo and took the 15-inch ipd Virgo replicas off the yellow 245 and put the 17-inch ipd Pegasus replics back on. No pics yet as I got distracted checking for a clunk in the LHF suspension...then decided to clean wheels before putting them away, then coffee time, looking for an airbag clock spring for somebody, etc. Might move the gold car onto the hoist today then it all starts. Also tested out my new Milwaukee tyre inflator (Total Tools had some sale yesterday 20% off credit, so I got it for basically nothing using the credit from purchase of an E-Go self-propelled mower for Wayne). Works well but I don't like the screw-on valve fitting as it lets out a small amount of air when unscrewing. Guess I can always set the pressure 1 PSI higher to compensate.

Car is now in the hoist bay...I'm pacing myself! I started making a checklist/to-do list for the project.

Swap out ECUs (test before pulling engine?)

Need crank holding tool back from Greg Cameron

Remove gearbox and check flywheel type - swap with LH2.4 flywheel if need be

Notch bellhousing for crank sensor

Install pilot bearing

Check clutch fork

Before turning over engine - lubricate front and rear crank and cam seals

Remove and check plugs

Source injectors?

Lengthen AMM lead

Intercooler upper mounts

Radiator fan brackets for 740 shroud

Davies-Craig fan controller, or ECU fan controlled from 940 ECU with 850 fan relays?

Replace ECU coolant temp sensor

Replace/swap engine gauge coolant temp sensor

Remove distributor blanking plate - need to swap intermediate shaft if no gears

Remove intermediate shaft WHILE OIL PAN is OFF!!

740T coolant bottle/brackets

Solution for oil cooler lines

Downpipe

240 or 740T cat, or aftermarket cat?

Solution to join cat to 240T exhaust

Install trailer hitch while exhaust is out? Need to remove from paddock basher or source other style <--low priority

Solution for air filter and washer fluid bottle

Solution for driveshaft

Solution for transmission mount

Wiring and install of Turbo + kit

Wiring and install of oil pressure sender on engine

O2 sensor/wiring/location TBC

Wiring installation for overdrive/relay - while dash is out - plus modify cluster lens light appropriately for "OD" or "5"

Remove dash and tidy up wiring for accessories and gauges

Fit clutch pedal box (check and lubricate pedal bushings

Drill hole for clutch master cylinder

Fit clutch master, pipe and slave/hose before reinstalling engine

Strarted looking through my tubs of spare parts and stuff that I've accumulated over the past decades for this project...it's kinda like the mother-in-law who keeps buying condensed milk when she's got 10 cans in the pantry already LOL! How many new clutch master cylinders do I need etc! Once I get thru everything I'll need to have another sale!

Getting a bit more organised. I discovered the ECU and EZKs I have (both sets) are from my dad in the USA, and he tested them all in his 240, so saves me the trouble of that step. EZKs both have same number; ECUs different, so will research which one is best. Still wondering whether it would be fairly easy to control the electric fan with the ECU instead of one of the Davies-Craig fan controllers I have. Less messy, but I need to research how it's done on the 940. Looks like the 850 fan I have will fit pretty well inside the 740T fan shroud with some sort of brackets to hold it in place. Will need to check clearance to water pump pulley. I have 2x 740T master cylinder heat shields. Holding it up to the master cylinder in the 240, it looks like the rearward brake pipe will foul the shield. Need to look at some pics of the brake pipes on a 740 I guess. The 740T master cylinder looks identical to the 240 one with same pipe fitting locations, so the pipe must just be bent differently on the 740?

jamesinc

I am quite interested to know how you go retrofitting ECU rad fan control.

I'll start doing some digging on it.

nugget_940

If you use 940 ecu's and a 940 thermo controller as well as lh2.4 coolant temp sensor, all you need to do is connect 10 and 11 (high/low speed) on the jetronic (fuel) ecu to the pins on the thermo relay

See diagram https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/9733/bosch-lh-jetronic-2-4-ecu-and-ezk-pinout-tables

The thermofan controller has constant 12v from the battery and the way the fans turn on is by switching them to ground, this makes it easy if you wanted to hook up a manual switch

Thanks. The fan I have is from an 850 and looks to have a black earth wire and a red and a green wire (I assume +12V for the low and high speeds). I don't have a 940 fan controller so will have to see what it looks like, or whether I can just grab the ECU signals and a couple relays to make it work.

240

@carnut222 if you decide you have too many clutch master cylinders, I will buy one!

Also out of curiosity, maybe you already mentioned and I missed it, are you using a 740T intercooler or something custom/off the shelf/etc?

Just planning to use the 740T intercooler. I probably have a spare new clutch master cylinder, but they are the 740T ones with no integral reservoir (suitable for the later cars with the hose barb off the brake master cylinder reservoir). Lemme know if you'd be interested. I need to see what I paid for them to get you a price.

Oh wow, a year has gone by since I did anything on this LOL! When my parents were here in Nov/Dec, my dad helped me start pulling bits off the gold wagon, including the exhaust, tail shaft. radiator, fan, etc. Today I started pulling apart the donor 740T engine. I pulled the distributor out (anyone need a good used 740 distributor complete? I'll put it in the For Sale area). Also removed inlet manifold and pulled the front mount distributor blanking plug. To mu surprise and delight the intermediate shaft has the distributor gear machined on it, so I guess they either used the machined shafts on the reco engines so they could be used in 740T and 240T, or it was just pot luck as to what parts they used. I haven't gotten the engine on my engine stand yet, but once I do I'll pull the oil pan and see whether it has skinny or 13 mm rods. I'm hoping for the latter, but not too fussed really. I see looking back at this thread that I've had the donor engine since August 2004, so this August it will be 20 years! Maybe I'll have it done by then? Doubt it though as I work slow and we've also got a 5-week trip to USA via Japan before August, plus the National Rally prep is chewing up some of my time too.

ramrod yes I'd assume 9 mm rods based on it being an 88 740T, however it's a Volvo reconditioned engine - so I don't know when it was reconditioned and with what parts they reconditioned them. I mean if they changed to 13 mm rods in 1990, and they re-coed engines after 1990, would they continue to use old 9 mm rods, or would they rebuild them with the newer spec 13 mm rods? I won't know until I look inside!

A few more minor tasks done today. I removed the auto trans cooler lines and 4 bolts holding the torque converter to the flex plate. Managed to snap off the terminal on the starter solenoid. Grrr! I think this is the 2nd time I've done that. Not sure why they're so weak or what I'm doing wrong - just put a 13 mm spanner on it and tried to loosen it and it twisted the bakelite plastic part right off. Lucky I have a spare (or 10?)

I was thinking about the crank pulley - noticed on the B230FT donor engine there are 4 small depressions in the outer ring, and only 1 depression on the B230F in the car. I assume maybe they are factory balanced? Hmm. The pulley rubber on the FT looks like it's pretty cracked, so I was planning to use the one off the B230F. Guess it would be a minor imbalance, or maybe the pulleys are balanced by themselves so it doesn't matter which one you put on which engine? I guess that would make more sense?