No
'81 244 DL Buttercup
IT HAS FUNCTIONAL AC
-15 km/h and + 2 l/100 km - but worth it ;)
Whoah! Functional A/C and carb!
Philia_Bear;96803 wrote Want the aw7x back again?
{aside} Mister Bear, if you have a spare AW7x shifter to suit a 240, I am interested... {/aside}jamesinc;96804 wroteNo
Someone has converted the whole thing to R134a.
The stereo does actually work and is fully sick.
The car also has a full log history back to 81. Seems to have had first owner until around 1999, then owned by someone for like a year, then another owner until about 2008, then another until 2016, then the guy who I bought it off who I don't think did anything other than drive it a handful of times before the rego expired, then me.
The car is still low on power after replacing usual bits. The plastic screw in the top of the carb is broken, so I need to replace that, and I might see if Torben wants to give me a rundown on carb tuning.
The car also has a full log history back to 81. Seems to have had first owner until around 1999, then owned by someone for like a year, then another owner until about 2008, then another until 2016, then the guy who I bought it off who I don't think did anything other than drive it a handful of times before the rego expired, then me.
The car is still low on power after replacing usual bits. The plastic screw in the top of the carb is broken, so I need to replace that, and I might see if Torben wants to give me a rundown on carb tuning.
We spent Saturday undoing all the tree damage. I haven't cut the paint yet, but I did a test spot on the roof, and results are very promising indeed.
This morning. I reinstalled some hoses that had holes in them. I think I'll replace the main intake ducting hose with generic 70mm spiral hose, and delete the Venturi and cap off the vacuum amplifier.
(Source: https://www.howacarworks.com/fuel-systems/adjusting-a-stromberg-carburettor)
I also started scrutinising the carburetor. The damper cap (black plastic bit indicated above) is broken inside, and doesn't seat very firmly, so I'll need to replace that. There was also no oil in it, so I added half a capful of 20W50 and now there is some resistance when trying to move the damper rod.
I adjusted the fast-idle stop screw as well. I am about to go back out and check if the mixture is set correctly.
This morning. I reinstalled some hoses that had holes in them. I think I'll replace the main intake ducting hose with generic 70mm spiral hose, and delete the Venturi and cap off the vacuum amplifier.
(Source: https://www.howacarworks.com/fuel-systems/adjusting-a-stromberg-carburettor)
I also started scrutinising the carburetor. The damper cap (black plastic bit indicated above) is broken inside, and doesn't seat very firmly, so I'll need to replace that. There was also no oil in it, so I added half a capful of 20W50 and now there is some resistance when trying to move the damper rod.
I adjusted the fast-idle stop screw as well. I am about to go back out and check if the mixture is set correctly.
Moss Motors have Stromberg parts at reasonable prices.
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28999#top
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28999#top
The cap holds itself on for now, so I'll leave it. I started tinkering with the carburetor. When I lift the piston a little, the engine dies, which I think means the mixture is lean. So now I have to get a tool for adjusting the needle.bgpzfm142;96980 wroteMoss Motors have Stromberg parts at reasonable prices.
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28999#top
A lot of glare today, but most of the sap, scratches and other junk on the paint is now gone. I think if I go over the whole car with a mild cutting compound, rather than paint renovator which I've been using on the worst spots, it'll come up really nice. These photos are before re-washing and polishing, so there's a lot more shine to be had yet.
Good save this one!
Looking great!
I saw a similar car sitting with its plates off just now, white, must go back as it was running at least 5 months ago. Put a note o it!
Looking great!
I saw a similar car sitting with its plates off just now, white, must go back as it was running at least 5 months ago. Put a note o it!
After the glare died down yesterday I managed to get a couple of good photos. You can see the bonnet has a bit of paint damage, but it's mostly pretty good.
Looking real good, I have a 1980 wagon in the same volvo butter, had a bit of touch up paint mixed up if you want to go over any spots - not a perfect match but does the trick to cover the rust spots.
I'll get my own paint, as I need it to be the same system as my thinners.
Can you purchase a carb kit for it?
A proper one, not a Chinese special. I love carb kits, they make everything better.
A proper one, not a Chinese special. I love carb kits, they make everything better.
Yeah, I can get one from Zenith in the UK. I have another 175 CD I need to rebuild so I might buy a pair
- Edited
http://www.kennysholdenspares.com.au/shop/viewcategory.php?groupid=113
Looks like most parts can be sourced locally well oz anyhoo
Looks like most parts can be sourced locally well oz anyhoo
16 days later
- Edited
Decided to do the struts today. Started quite late due to the sweltering 43 degree outside temps. Actually wasn't bad in the shade, just have to drink a lot of water.
Anyway, I've now found the tie rod inners are worn out, and the rack boots are split. The strut ball joints are okay but one side has a minor split in its boot, so might do them too. Tie rod ends are fine.
The rotors have plenty of meat left on them, but good GOD are they rusty. So I think I'm gonna bin them and use the ones of the parts wagon.
Anyway, I've now found the tie rod inners are worn out, and the rack boots are split. The strut ball joints are okay but one side has a minor split in its boot, so might do them too. Tie rod ends are fine.
The rotors have plenty of meat left on them, but good GOD are they rusty. So I think I'm gonna bin them and use the ones of the parts wagon.