Fuse Box replacement? Help needed

Reubo What can be done about the feed rail? Because I haven’t got a clue what that is, cheers.

It's represented here by the big green lines (& green arrow).

It's the power supply feed (or rail) from the ignition switch that supplies +12v from the ignition switch in X (accessories) and 15r (Terminal 15 which is ignition on; 'r' meaning engine running - as opposed to 15s, meaning ignition on, engine start) to fuses #14, 15, and 16 - with a link going off to fuse #23.

If you were to pull the fuse holder / box apart, it's literally a small metal rail at that point.

If you're not getting juice at 14/15/16, but there's +12v at terminal 30 at the ignition switch when it's on, there are only basically 3 causes -

1. faulty ignition switch
2. faulty connection &/or wire from ignition switch to fusebox
3. faulty / broken rail in fuse box.

@Major Ledfoot I just dropped a new feature - you can now link files more easily (you'll see a new link to the right of each doc in the archive).

https://ozvolvo.org/archive/?book=1d6ffea778

Reubo my ignition coil has busted at some point and leaked a thick black liquid, is there anyway this would effect these electronics? Or is it just a seperate issue?

Yes, it is.

The black liquid is a coolant for the coil windings, which get hot when they're at work. As you know, it needs replacing.

^ That's a 'how long is a piece of string' type of question. It COULD have an impact on the power / fusebox issues, if the coil has gone short circuit in some way due to overheating. Coil overheating could lead to an internal short circuit in the coil,, which would in turn lead to excessive current draw on that circuit and heat things up in the fuse box and wiring. (That said, I've written the above without examining the ignition circuit in detail).

Reubo Fuses 14&15 showed -0.10

Fuse 16 (repaired fuse) showed 12.85

Well, that's a problem. #14, 15, and 16 should all have juice.

Look at page 3 of the pdf (i.e. page 1 of the Green Book) and there's a table there saying which fuse does what.

Whoever did the fuse 'repair' did a bodgy, since 14 and 15 are supposed to have +12V from the same source as #16.

See the green line in the pic I posted before.

^ First thing I'd be doing is finding out what's wrong with the old fuse box - 14, 15, and 16 should be powered up from the same source, unless the PO cut up the metal rail inside the fuse box when doing the #16 replacement.

Second thing I'd be doing is making sure there's no problems with the equipment which hangs off #14 and #15 and which get power from those fuses.
#14 has the door mirrors, cigar lighter, and radio on it.
#15 has the horn and the windscreen washer pump on it.

(Or, at least, should - one never knows what cowboys have done before, especially given their adversity to documentation).

The (OE) circuit paths for each are in the Green Book, which are very bloody easy to follow compared to Holden wiring books.

^ Cowboy Job much? Look at the frayed conductors sticking out of the crimped red wire on the relay.... Cheezus.

Looks like Wild Bill Fcukup cut the power feed from the ignition switch to the 14/15/16 rail and fed it straight onto his fuse.

......cut 'em in / tie 'em up - Rawhide!

^ Ayup, which may explain why there's no juice to 14 & 15.

Reubo Glad the electrical issues are sorted.

What oil are you using in the car now? Use that and be consistent.

My personal preference is Penrite oil and a Mann or genuine oil filter.

This stuff. Not cheap, but you can't go wrong.