Reubo Fuses 14&15 showed -0.10
Fuse 16 (repaired fuse) showed 12.85
Well, that's a problem. #14, 15, and 16 should all have juice.
Look at page 3 of the pdf (i.e. page 1 of the Green Book) and there's a table there saying which fuse does what.
Whoever did the fuse 'repair' did a bodgy, since 14 and 15 are supposed to have +12V from the same source as #16.
See the green line in the pic I posted before.
Major Ledfoot
Hmm so maybe when repairing number 16 they have done something to ruin 14 and 15?
Any idea about 17-22 not showing anything?
Reubo Any idea about 17-22 not showing anything?
Major Ledfoot Look at page 3 of the pdf (i.e. page 1 of the Green Book) and there's a table there saying which fuse does what.
Edited to add: You likely won't see voltages on those other fuses until the system / circuit associated with that fuse is switched on - e.g. you won't see juice on the headlight fuse until you switch on the headlights. So you have to know which fuse works for what component, and p3 of the Green Book tells all.
Major Ledfoot ah ok that makes sense.
I was wondering, do you think it would be worth swapping the fuses over to the replacement box and see if that help/resolves some issues?
^ First thing I'd be doing is finding out what's wrong with the old fuse box - 14, 15, and 16 should be powered up from the same source, unless the PO cut up the metal rail inside the fuse box when doing the #16 replacement.
Second thing I'd be doing is making sure there's no problems with the equipment which hangs off #14 and #15 and which get power from those fuses.
#14 has the door mirrors, cigar lighter, and radio on it.
#15 has the horn and the windscreen washer pump on it.
(Or, at least, should - one never knows what cowboys have done before, especially given their adversity to documentation).
The (OE) circuit paths for each are in the Green Book, which are very bloody easy to follow compared to Holden wiring books.
Major Ledfoot
Well I know all the things which 14 and 15 should be powering don’t work so there’s an issue there.
Fuse number 16 was getting voltage, however they haven’t fiddled with anything, by the looks of it they have just cut the wires and added a small amount on the end.
^ Cowboy Job much? Look at the frayed conductors sticking out of the crimped red wire on the relay.... Cheezus.
Looks like Wild Bill Fcukup cut the power feed from the ignition switch to the 14/15/16 rail and fed it straight onto his fuse.
......cut 'em in / tie 'em up - Rawhide!
Major Ledfoot
Oh you think so? So they’ve cut the wrong wires for number 16 and wrecked 14,15?
^ Ayup, which may explain why there's no juice to 14 & 15.
Major Ledfoot
Thanks for your help! I got those issues sorted, just wondering what sort of engine oil to use for an oil swap? The manual wasn’t too clear.
Reubo Glad the electrical issues are sorted.
What oil are you using in the car now? Use that and be consistent.
My personal preference is Penrite oil and a Mann or genuine oil filter.
Major Ledfoot
Hasn’t been driven or changed since I bought it so I’m not sure what type to get. A few places recommended 10w/40 I think?
This stuff. Not cheap, but you can't go wrong.
Thanks. Looking at the online manual it was talking about different temperature and using different oils. Is that something you really need to worry about?
No
The idea of 10w40 which is a multi grade oil means the temperature change has already been factored in ahead of time
The oil acts like a 10 viscosity in winter (cold) and 40 viscosity in summer (hot)
Which is exactly what you want for a petrol powered engine like the redblock
What ramrod said. Here in OZ, we don't need to worry about -12 degrees C like I had to during a Columbus OH winter.
I have One final mystery, which is when I drove it just on my property the other day the car turned off while driving. I was told by a friend this could be an alternator issue but I was thinking it was a battery problem because when I tried turning the car back I was getting nothing at all (no accessories or anything).
I charged the battery overnight and tried again but still got nothing and assumed that meant the battery was dead.
Just out of curiosity I tried it again this morning and it’s turned on again! So now I’m really confused and don’t know if I have a battery or alternator issue or both!?
Be very careful when troubleshooting an issue like that.
Make sure you spend the necessary amount of time carrying out testing on the starting and charging system.
Battery world is in the business of selling batteries but they won't test your alternator first. So you'll buy a new battery because they will test your one and tell you it's discharged, but they won't do their job and find out why, so the next day that brand new battery could be dead again and the reason won't be clear. This has happened thousands of times, don't get caught
