The method I have used many times is to use a breaker bar and a good socket. Before dismantling anything lean the breaker bar against the ground or something very solid like a chassis rail on the clock-wise side, disconnect the ignition coil, then tap the ignition/key/starter motor. Some lumps of timber on the ground will also work. If the breaker bar is in the right place it will not turn, and the crank will - which will/should undo the pulley bolt. If the breaker bar is on the wrong side it can get rather messy with a swinging lever at the front of your engine. You really do not want this.
Re-tensioning is a little tough though a friend holding the ring gear with a large flat screwdriver while you lean on the torque wrench works just fine. I have never had one come loose.
The proper tool is the best Plan A, this is a good Plan B.
Regarding nuts and studs, little cap screws work just fine, the studs are easier to align everything though once on with a little lock-tite the bolts are fine. Using cap screws usually makes it easier to get a tool onto them, the 10mm hex can be tough for a spanner - though in some cases not. If the studs are preferred look for 'engineer studs', they should be easy to find. Ensure they are either plated or stainless, mild steel ones will rust and cause pain in a few years. Just take a sample to your local bolt shop. they will likely have something to work.
Regarding the amateur part, check everything twice! The redblock is forgiving regarding bending valves though doing the job twice due to being a tooth out is annoying. Line up the three marks, turn the engine over twice (slide the balancer on and twist by hand, removing plugs aides this) then check again. Using a marker pen on the belt to draw from the front to the back of the belt can aid with not being able to look from directly in front.
