240 Water Pump and Timing Belt Questions

ben_favotto · 13 Jan

Hey everyone, hope the new year has started well for everyone!
I'm in the process of changing the water pump, timing belt and crankshaft seals on my 240 and had a couple of questions about it.

So far the water pump has been removed, however in the process I stripped one of the nuts for the fan clutch and didn't realise I'd need to buy new bolts for the fan clutch. They're mismatched anyway and one of the threads was the culprit of my rounded nut. I've got both new bolts and nuts in my cart for FCP to replace them but before spending the 40 bucks on international shipping, I wanted to see if anyone recommended any shops in Australia that would be a good alternative.

With the timing belt and seals, I've been watching some tutorials and reading my workshop manual which all recommend the use of the crankshaft pulley holder which I do not own. Is it possible to replace the timing belt and seals without the tool, and if so, how so and is it wise as a very very amateur mechanic to attempt it myself? I'd also appreciate any general advice for the job, as I already feel a bit in over my head.

Appreciate your expertise and advice as always!

Rramrod · 13 Jan

I have new water pump studs and nuts in stock

You do not technically need the crankshaft pulley holding tool, but it is highly recommended that you have it.

The other methods of locking the crank are crude and dangerous, but say you were broken down on the road and needed to change the belt to get home, yes you can get by without it. I would not recommend not using it though.

Buy the tool, you’ll always be using it especially when you buy more Volvos that need cam belts, I use mine almost every week

ben_favotto · 13 Jan

ramrod

Thanks for that, the holding tool seems important. Is there any place you recommend buying the tool from?

I'll also shoot you a pm about the nuts and studs, I just wanted to confirm that they are replacements for the fan clutch studs and nuts. My water pump replacement kit already comes with replacement mounting bolts and nuts for the pump itself.

Major Ledfoot · 13 Jan

The flange nuts [5] (p/n 945407) are M6 x 6.

The studs [4] (1266775-4) aren't listed in the QRL bolt document.

Drawing 51733 - 240 88+ part book; Grupp 26, Sida 264:
Image description

Brad · 13 Jan

Whereabouts are you? For the timing belt there might be a fellow OzVolvo-er nearby who has the crankshaft holder tool you could borrow?

Some people have used the "rope trick" which involves removing the spark plug from cylinder No. 1 and stuffing rope into the cylinder -as much as you can get in there. Then rotate the engine counter-clockwise using the crank pulley bolt until the piston compresses the rope against the cylinder head. I'm not a fan of that because I don't like the idea of shoving foreign objects into the cylinders. A lot of force is required to loosen the crank pulley bolt. Some people swear by it though.

Another option is a rattle gun. Again, opinions vary. Some people say it's okay while others claim you risk snapping the crankshaft. Might depend on how tight the bolt is. I wouldn't do it.

Best option is to get the right tool. If you plan on keeping the car it will pay for itself.

Rramrod · 13 Jan

The rope trick is an easy way to bend a valve (if not careful and not knowing what you’re doing)

ben_favotto · 13 Jan

Brad
I'm nearby Fairfield, Sydney. I'm not totally convinced on either of the alternatives, so I'm convinced by the tool. Happy to borrow one if someone is offering. I'm happy to buy the tool as well, even if it is for a one time use. Is there somewhere in Australia that sells it?

ben_favotto · 13 Jan

Major Ledfoot
Looks like the ones I'm after!

dmc · 13 Jan

The method I have used many times is to use a breaker bar and a good socket. Before dismantling anything lean the breaker bar against the ground or something very solid like a chassis rail on the clock-wise side, disconnect the ignition coil, then tap the ignition/key/starter motor. Some lumps of timber on the ground will also work. If the breaker bar is in the right place it will not turn, and the crank will - which will/should undo the pulley bolt. If the breaker bar is on the wrong side it can get rather messy with a swinging lever at the front of your engine. You really do not want this.

Re-tensioning is a little tough though a friend holding the ring gear with a large flat screwdriver while you lean on the torque wrench works just fine. I have never had one come loose.

The proper tool is the best Plan A, this is a good Plan B.

Regarding nuts and studs, little cap screws work just fine, the studs are easier to align everything though once on with a little lock-tite the bolts are fine. Using cap screws usually makes it easier to get a tool onto them, the 10mm hex can be tough for a spanner - though in some cases not. If the studs are preferred look for 'engineer studs', they should be easy to find. Ensure they are either plated or stainless, mild steel ones will rust and cause pain in a few years. Just take a sample to your local bolt shop. they will likely have something to work.

Regarding the amateur part, check everything twice! The redblock is forgiving regarding bending valves though doing the job twice due to being a tooth out is annoying. Line up the three marks, turn the engine over twice (slide the balancer on and twist by hand, removing plugs aides this) then check again. Using a marker pen on the belt to draw from the front to the back of the belt can aid with not being able to look from directly in front.

jamesinc · 14 Jan

Use rope in the #1 bore, through the spark plug hole. Yes you need to make sure you are on the right stroke.

When removing the crank bolt, you will be trying to turn the motor anticlockwise, so set the motor to TDC #1 firing, then rotate clockwise another 90 or so degrees to make space for the rope (this will put you in the middle of #1 expansion stroke i.e. both valves shut). Once you've fed about 50cm of rope in, turn the motor anticlockwise until it jams. Now you can remove the crank bolt. To free the rope, just turn the motor a couple degrees clockwise and pull it out.

For re-installation of the crank pulley, you are doing the same thing but this time you need to jam the motor in its normal clockwise direction. So once again starting at TDC #1 firing, rotate the motor anticlockwise about 90 degrees (this will put you in the middle of the #1 compression stroke i.e. both valves shut), feed the rope on, then torque the crank nut. After, turn it back a couple degrees to free the rope and you're done.