Julian's 850R

Ghettobird · 2015-07-05T09:47:48+00:00

It's a great starting point for a project!

Ghettobird

Sure will be snipping out the bottoms of the sockets James, just waiting for my new sprue cutters to come back in stock

If all goes well, Id be happy to socket other ECUs, but I dont have the ability to write any fancy maps for them, what I could do is write a fresh chip for it in stock form, ie the 850R Auto or Manual Bin files with provisions for Air conditioning (The swap from 4.3 to 4.4 fucks AC without a software fix)

The people this will appeal to will be:

Owners wanting to be able to hot swap chips, install an Ostrich unit and have the car tuned locally or just convert to manual without having to spend $750 dollars for an off the shelf tune from ARD or elsewhere

Will work on:

850 T5 with M4.3, 850R M4.3 OR M4.4 for 1997 manual cars, S/V/C70 T5 UP TO 1998

Cars running M4.3 will need a few other things added, still working out what is involved

nickm

pretty sure it is just the AC mod to convert 4.3 to 4.4. The pre 4.3 are different again.
Good thread can we move it from your car one?

Ghettobird

How this?
https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/4417/motronic-m4-3-to-m4-4-socketed-ecus-and-ostrich-2-0-what-it-all-means-and-why-bother#latest

Ghettobird

Alrighty!

Began wrecking a 1998 S70 T5 at work, M4.4 FTW!

More bits!
This is the 32 DP adapter needed to plug into the socket, it makes my life easy and looks the $$$

Suspension swap!
Swapped out my stock suspension for @Ex850R's Koni & IPD spring setup
Koni yellows up front, Koni reds in the rear

#Slammed

She sits about an inch or 2 lower and has actually reduced the rub caused by my Falken FK453s by about 75% (215 45 17)

My Ostrich came!

I made quick work of the old EEPROM chip, at first I tried using a blade but the dremel made quick and accurate work of the old ships legs

The 449 at the end denotes a 1998 Auto S70 T5

Sweet dreams

Post Dremel work

Cover in solder and clean up the old feet

Minty

Not as much solder as it looks

Awww yiss

And its running!
I realised I had too many of thoes little 32 pin cable spacers on and couldnt get the damn case back on, bit it works!

She starts 60% quicker, pulls a LOT harder (12.5 psi steady, 15 psi overboost) and runs great
I need to make a socket in the side of the ECU for a USB interface so I can datalog without having the ECU exposed

Learnt a LOT about TunerPro in the process, will be updating the other thread with a fairly comprehensive guide on all of the basic

Next up:
Actually ordering my clutch and manual swap bits, tuning etc etc

Jamest5r_

Top work :)

nickm

good work

Ex850R

I missed it maybe , what $$ so far on ostrich etc parts?
The ostrich has base tune or you flash it?
Need ostrich to do mine?
What soldering station do you use.
Answers in numerical , dot point please.
'slammed ' lost its novelty quickly...

Ghettobird

1. All up cost was about $350 - $400, I could have done it for 220 but I wanted to socket the ECU and the ease of adapters and other fancy bits

2. Depends on what you mean by "Do" I could burn a tune to a chip, socket yours and plop the chip in, but if you want the datalogging you'd need to run an Ostrich in it full time

3. I use a Hakko FX-888, the model before they went digital. Super quick heat times, simple and reliable, I get my spare tips and collars from Element 14. I Love it

4. Ok

5. I thought it would, looked pretty funny though

Im still coming to terms with the software and working out a way for it to work for me.
Ill be adding in a MAP sensor to one of the spare input channels on the ECU so I can log boost pressure and maybe even another Wideband

What will be possible for me to do is to socket other peoples ECUs, but I wont be writing tunes as I just dont have the experience, atleast not yet

Vee_Que

Don't see why you can't give it a go though.

Ghettobird

Ill be able to do basic stuff like adding a bit of extra boost and launch control for auto cars, Ill see how I go :)

Ghettobird

Update!!!

The last 8 weeks were pretty harsh on my battery
Seeing a few sub 6 degree starts saw the Century off to an early grave

Replaced it with a Super Charge MF66H Gold + (Physically the biggest battery that would fit)
750 CCA, 154min reserve cap and a 40 Month warranty!
Car starts stupid fast now and my headlights are a lot brighter

We had a visitor in the shop!

The Quaife rocked up mid wastegate actuator replacement on @t4_matt's wagon, Funny seeing as its supposedly for his model, and not an 850R :)

3' DP because I thought the car was a bit too quiet, Thanks to @timbo for holding it for so long!

I had a Euro 3 Stainless cat welded up for it the day after

Went to put on an angled housing from a later XC90, These DO NOT FIT
There is a step on the CHRA side of the housing, it will NOT bolt up to an older 16T assembly

Pics for reference

Much bigger outlet

This is the hard water line that runs behind the block to the turbo water feed, do NOT use normal rubber hose, it will turn rock solid under the heat and leak. This was only 6 months old

This is what it should look like (Nice new genuine silicone hose)

Decided to use the exhaust housing from my 20T that I have sitting around because I knew it would bolt up to the original housing (7cm exhaust port etc etc), couldnt quite get it to seat properly and had a HUGE exhaust leak and had no clue why.
This sucked big time and I left the car for 2 weeks up on stands

Regained some muster and went to tackle it again.
On removing the manifold in order to clean up the edges with a dremel one of the studs on the housing came out. No worries, ill just thread it back in later.

Suddenly the housing sat perfectly on the manifold... Why? Because Kinugawa cant drill and thread a hole to save their own asses.

Get a look at that, 2 weeks of bullshit because of a crappily drilled hole.

And now?
Perfect.
I dremeled out the manifold hole as I will be using a different manifold soon, 30 mins with the grinder and it fits like a glove

Fixed an oil leak, Oil return line gasket was probably as old as I am

On our way to Winton, I wasnt planning on tracking the car as the rear main is still a bit unknown.

Filthy after driving through the burbs (Thanks Epping -_-)

And home again after the trip

Next up:
Manual swap
Swaybars?
Tuning!
Intercooler?

V85OR

Intercooler...just because...

Ghettobird

In discussions with Snabb, even just an all alloy setup would be miles better than plastic end tank garbage

AshDVS

Ghettobird;81415 wroteIn discussions with Snabb, even just an all alloy setup would be miles better than plastic end tank garbage

Call PWR. They'll make one up for you.

Ex850R

AshDVS;81416 wrote
Ghettobird;81415 wroteIn discussions with Snabb, even just an all alloy setup would be miles better than plastic end tank garbage
Call PWR. They'll make one up for you.

Professionally made in Australia.
Price was close to or better than do88 was.
Snabb may just offer up a Chinese one as was done in a group buy years ago on TB
May as well get the $200 eBay one.
Mine is going well!

Vee_Que

AshDVS;81416 wrote
Ghettobird;81415 wroteIn discussions with Snabb, even just an all alloy setup would be miles better than plastic end tank garbage
Call PWR. They'll make one up for you.

Julian doesn't have $900 for a intercooler that will do not that much better for what he needs for $300....

Ghettobird

Thought id bent a rod yesterday, went to start the car up and was greeted with a nasty light tapping sound, turned out the rubber elbow leading to the evac solenoid mounted on the fan shroud had totally given up and was ticking away with every revolution - That was a heart attack and a half :S

Gave PWR a call, they wanted just over a grand per unit for a run of 4, bloke said the majority of the cost was in the core, which were priced at about 700 for a 5 cm thick core of standard length and height

The lads and I got lucky on a set out of Snabb, they may not be as good as a PWR cooler, however just the move from tube & fin to a half decent bar & plate unit should be worlds apart.
We know when they rock up.

Forgot to upload this while doing the dump pipe, Always wanted to know how it would sound with NO dump pipe on, now I know :)

Currently looking for some torque specs for the installation of the Quaife, Also playing with some hoses/fittings to make a flexible oil return line to the block, and maybe one for the feed as swapping turbos over is a friggin nightmare with slightly bent oil lines.

I also think my rear swaybar is toast, ever since lowering the car on Les' old IPD springs Ive been hearing a clanging sound on suspension articulation. Ive never actually bothered to look, might have to get it up on the hoist sometime this week

sucksqueezebangblow

The difference between cheap and well designed will be greater than the bar & plate, tube & fin argument.

Bar and plate are generally heavier than tube and fin.

I had a $1k Plazmaman tube & fin on the xr6t and IATs were managed well enough.

Vee_Que

Its a good argument ssbb, but the reality is, in the real world outside of competition, you won't notice it...

sucksqueezebangblow

Agreed, on the road you boost for 4 seconds (for a very fast car) to 8 seconds (for a not so fast car) before hitting the limit.
That said, if you were driving very hard for ages on a back road (old pacific hwy for example) you might get some ignition retard if IATs got high enough, and that was part of the ecu strategy.

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