Tool for removing fuel tank bung plug

I just did the lift pump in my 1990 240, and it looked like the sender hasn't ever been removed before.

I used brake cleaner to melt the underbody sealant that was gluing the lock ring shut.

Once it was melted, I scraped and cleaned what I could out from the lock ring groove etc, so that none would get in the tank when the sender unit came out.

Then I used 2 big flat blade screwdrivers crossed over each other for leverage, with the blade of each sitting in opposing notches in the lock ring (ie at 3 and 9 o'clock). The shaft of screwdriver in your right hand goes behind the the shaft of the screwdriver in your left hand, and the blade of the screwdriver in your right hand goes into a notch on the left hand side of the lock ring (ie 9 o'clock… although you might not be able to use 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock if there's pipes etc in the way.) Just so long as the blades are as close to being on the opposite sides of the lock ring as you can get them.

Then I just twisted anti clockwise. Was far easier than I expected it to be!

There's a high chance of slipping with this method though, so be very careful! You don't want a screwdriver through the top of the tank, or your flesh!

(I searched various phrases on Google for 20 minutes trying to find a diagram, but came up with nothing. Hopefully my description isn't too ambiguous)

You should buy a new locking ring and take it to a metal fabricator for them to make the tool to fit it.

it only needs to be a T bar with two rectangles 180° apart to mate with the cutouts in the ring.

Where abouts are you from?

74wagon I'll take a photo of my tank sender tool when I get home. I bought it from someone on here ages ago.

You'll want to get a new 'O' ring for the sender, too.

I've always just done this using a long flathead screwdriver and a rubber mallet, and worked my way around the sender ring a few times until it's open, takes a couple minutes but not especially difficult.

jamesinc Seconded. Rubber grease on the old o-ring also.

volvodriverman oh yeah it makes a huge difference, I didn't think to mention that. I use Herschell Red Rubber Grease. SCA have a home-brand version that I'm sure is fine too.

FCP Euro and ipd USA both sell a tool to remove the ring. Might be worth buying one as they're not too expensive. Shipping shouldn't be too expensive given you're in North America.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-fuel-pre-pump-sender-tool-skandix-1015486

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/5427/Fuel-Tank-Bung-Nut-Tool-for-Volvo-IPD-106653?srsltid=AfmBOopQXjcBRDhJ-1IxVhZiDbbwBaqc7JS_uebKw1mwVnpTtsv3eP7m

Okay, so ... looks like I've got a Skandix one.

Hello Major Ledfoot. Can you confirm that the Skandix tool fits the 140 (all of the compatible cars listed on the FCP site are 1978 240's and up)

Measure the ID and OD of your tank lock ring

1974Wagon Hello Major Ledfoot. Can you confirm that the Skandix tool fits the 140 (all of the compatible cars listed on the FCP site are 1978 240's and up)

I'll do that on Sunday when I get back home (& if it's stopped raining). 78+ tanks are different since the tanks for injected cars had a lift pump attached to the fuel level sender, but I can't recall if the lock ring is similar to the earlier ones prone to internal pipe corrosion and vapor lock.

Major Ledfoot The lock rings are similar but they are different diameters, the no-pump tank has a smaller opening.

74wagon Good luck with the rain

Thanks! And I did (with the lack thereof).

So, I tried fitting the Scandix-type tool on my 145's tank.....
(note bodgy K-Jet external fuel pump fitted, just so I could move the car)

.... and it fits on the 145's old fuel tank sender, without dramas.