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'Minty' The 240 Wagon
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20 days later
Soooooooooo... That 18t ayyyye? :D
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Haha cheers dude
I saw the 20T, but think it may be a bit big for a stock bottom end, Id like to keep a bit of reliability
Ill send you a PM
I saw the 20T, but think it may be a bit big for a stock bottom end, Id like to keep a bit of reliability
Ill send you a PM
11 days later
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Looks good, I definitely need a better welder....
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4 days later
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a month later
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Interesting. Jay is still running stock injectors with 4bar and good t3/4 and the afrs are in the 11s still..... But i do suspect it's running maxed. Just odd your car is doing that vs lh 2.2?
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Sam some hints for your project:
<been having trouble keeping the bolts that fasten the turbine housing to the manifold tight.>
Turbo - You need to fit Glenloch nuts (Stainless 304). They don't undo as they have sleeve that wedges the thread firm. Tighten cold and that's it forever.
Gasket: Isn't it best to use a proper turbo gasket as they crunch seal with insulation in-between, whereas a Cu gasket doesn't so you need to ensure both mating faces are dead flat.
A piece of glass is very flat, and if you use some blue to show high points you can get it pretty perfect with a fine file and emery on the high points.
Injectors: Source a set around 450cc so max duty cycle (ever) is 80%.
Panhard rod welding - your welding seems vg, but I question the simple butt weld.
The high tensile bolt you used should have been turned to fit tightly INSIDE the panhard tube that you cut, then the head inserted except for about a mm or two, and welded around.
Then a hole drilled thru the tube into the nut - and a plug weld to finish it off.
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Butt welds require quite a deep V-Groove so you really have as full penetration as possible.
<been having trouble keeping the bolts that fasten the turbine housing to the manifold tight.>
Turbo - You need to fit Glenloch nuts (Stainless 304). They don't undo as they have sleeve that wedges the thread firm. Tighten cold and that's it forever.
Gasket: Isn't it best to use a proper turbo gasket as they crunch seal with insulation in-between, whereas a Cu gasket doesn't so you need to ensure both mating faces are dead flat.
A piece of glass is very flat, and if you use some blue to show high points you can get it pretty perfect with a fine file and emery on the high points.
Injectors: Source a set around 450cc so max duty cycle (ever) is 80%.
Panhard rod welding - your welding seems vg, but I question the simple butt weld.
The high tensile bolt you used should have been turned to fit tightly INSIDE the panhard tube that you cut, then the head inserted except for about a mm or two, and welded around.
Then a hole drilled thru the tube into the nut - and a plug weld to finish it off.
===
Butt welds require quite a deep V-Groove so you really have as full penetration as possible.
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Dual Swaybar comment - an effect could be the rear end of the car will be quite rigid - as in the rear end will tend to steer straight - rather than flex in the bushes and follow the flow of the front end.
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Breather outlet in Volvo embossed Valve Cover -
I gave up on having hoses from the top cover as the splash of cam bucket oil just messed it all up and no benefit noticed as there is not much blowby, and if there is, it can escape downwards to the oil separator box .
For the B230 engine, the crank breather (via the oil separator box) is most effective and it continually vents a lot of internal smelly air. You can then route this to a catch can. Never have I seen even a drop of oil in the catch can, but instead a bit of condensate (water).
As above,
a B230 engine vents through the crankcase mounted large oil separator box.
a B21/23 engine has only a little oil-separator box, hence its additionally vented through a very specially designed Valve Cover.
So two different methods for 2 somewhat similar engines with the later a bit more evolved.
I gave up on having hoses from the top cover as the splash of cam bucket oil just messed it all up and no benefit noticed as there is not much blowby, and if there is, it can escape downwards to the oil separator box .
For the B230 engine, the crank breather (via the oil separator box) is most effective and it continually vents a lot of internal smelly air. You can then route this to a catch can. Never have I seen even a drop of oil in the catch can, but instead a bit of condensate (water).
As above,
a B230 engine vents through the crankcase mounted large oil separator box.
a B21/23 engine has only a little oil-separator box, hence its additionally vented through a very specially designed Valve Cover.
So two different methods for 2 somewhat similar engines with the later a bit more evolved.
That exhaust is nice!
Turbo looks too small... should replace it soon :P
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