Andy
Good work Sam. Get a thermocouple and install it in the collector. Make sure you keep your EGTs below 850c as well.
If your turbo was that hot during that long drive I would be inspecting the turbine blades.
Samman88
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Samman88
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Anthony
You would want to be able to modify the Volvo 240 crossmember to suit the engine.
An engineer would have kittens if you suggested a x member from another vehicle completely.
The biggest consideration amongst many is the sump position relative to the engine mounts.
Samman88
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Chris
Something to consider is if it isn't engineered and you have a stack you will have zero insurance. Don't think the police will look too kindly either
Ghettobird
Converting the whole front end would NEVER get engineered
Putting the benefits of A arm suspension aside, you can achieve a very well handing 240 utilising its standard arms and architecture for a whole less hassle and money than converting to an X member
Where it would be cool as hell to see, she would never see another public road again
Is adapting the 240s cross member going to be a tricky task? Id have assumed it would be a matter of mounts and a transmission mount, thats all
For my 240 the fact that I have high quality brackets that bolt up to the standard locations makes it significantly easier to engineer
Samman88
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Vee_Que
To not be able to engineer it, or even pass it off as a legal car... Yes, madness, get a daily and forgot about having any savings again. Particularly if you can't drive to the cars limit. Its pointless.
Which machine shop do you plan to use?
Samman88
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Vee_Que
Why not just get some from berrys or johns?
I may look into headspec after work tomorrow. Though I plan to do my own sonic testing.... 12 spots per cyl!
Samman88
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Vee_Que
Volvo B20, iron.... And people overbore them .100' to go to 2.12 but i have a mate who is an engine builder, so doing the rest is easy and if I need help he does. And helps he has the rest of a machine shop at home.
Samman88
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Vee_Que
Honestly, I bet you cannot do it for half that and be reliable if your going to making your own flywheel....
There already is an adaptor plate to the auto, but you will then need input shaft extensions, which can be done, at a cost of over $300 by itself. Adaptor plate is $300, making a flywheel.... $600, clutch itself i bet is close to.a grand...
Further, having spoken to the machine shop, torque plating is a massive wank on an iron block and increased cost for the sake of cost. They don't do it on truck motors that work at 100% a lot more then your 2j ever will, and they run pressed dry sleeves...
Samman88
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Vee_Que
I only speak from experience, custom costs, at least the kit has all the r&d done.... I garuntee there will be hidden costs that will catch you out, or major failures due to the one of nature of your design. Which really seems silly given the hp target.
Given i know multiple engine builders.... Yeah, not just vested interests. The people going on about them are mostly keyboard worriers.(yes, that is deliberate), especially given a stock bottom end 2j will do the power you want with no real hassles, it still is a waste of money.
On cut and modified input shafts, given the place has been doing them for 20+ years and has no failures even with higher power motors, because they get heat treated afterwards to be as per factory, its less of a worry than torque plating a cast iron block.
But, having done a quick google, can't find any real proof its nessecary for a iron block motor, so if you have a good tech article from a reputable source, I'd like to see that.
Samman88
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Samman88
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Vee_Que
Interesting on the compression, why will you be going that high? That manifold looks like overkill, awesome! But will it fit!?
Glad your not going to swap the front and rear end over too for now.
