You should be able to source the bearings through Repco / Supercheap or favourite local autoparts store, even online if thats your preference. fairy easy to do inner and outer bearings compared to a front wheel drive car.

there is a post on it as well

https://ozvolvo.org/d/13880-13880

hope that helps, do both at the same time as the other will probably go not long after (murphys law)

Good morning

Take the front bearings apart, if anything is worn or damaged in an unusual way, take the bearing to any seal and bearing shop, they are common parts. If the seals are shot, I have new ones

    jamesinc

    I am a fan of fcp, however, for items which are available locally, I like to support Australian small businesses and keep the money turning over in this country.

    I am always very suspicious of the Repco branded stuff - some of it is great, most of it is ok, some of it is garbage.

    I definitely try to buy brand name bearings.

    Be aware that Volvo changed the bearing sizes in the early 1980s. The changeover was very difficult to determine because it seemed like they were whacking in whatever struts they found on the day… You car should be new enough to have the larger bearings, but it is possible that it has had a replacement strut body in the past, so (ideally) you would confirm this before you buy the new ones.

    A bad bearing usually makes a growling, rumbling, crunching or howling sound, depending on exactly how it has failed.
    If it’s more of a scraping, grinding or screeching noise, then it’s more likely to be brake related.

      You can get Volvo genuine and you will be surprised at the good pricing plus 2YR Volvo Warranty.

      Berry Motor Group have a great dealer parts department as valued friends who give better pricing too.

      Mark Iceton or Emma at BMG

      Spac It's the low speed (around 30-40kmh) howl that seems to be the case for me…

      jamesinc I dropped the SKFs out of the cart at FCP and just grabbed the Timkens on Ebay, they're a sound brand and the shipping etc will be quicker and cheaper, thanks!

      Another question, I can't tackle the wheel bearings before the weekend but would be keen to hear any thoughts on the preferred grease to pack them with once I launch into it….

      I use belray waterproof grease

      But any high temp bearing grease will do

      I use Timken wheel bearing grease, but from the auto parts store you're more likely to find penrite which works fine too, but I agree with ramrod, any high temp bearing grease will work.

      Repco have got Penrite Hi-Temp Bearing Grease on special at $18.75 so I'll pop around to our local and grab some today, thanks guys….

      13 days later

      Bit of an update on the wheel bearing replacement, finished up the job on both front wheels on the weekend, had to refit the existing grease seals as the Timken kits I ordered off Ebay had the wrong seals included, the old ones were in reasonable nick so didn't want to wait around for the seller to get back to me.

      Had a quite an interesting exchange with the seller who finally came around to the idea that the V45 inner seal wasn't exclusively for marine applications (he initially said "that's the incorrect seal") but he finally came up with the seal pictured last (to fit 60mm OD 45mm ID) as he maintained that ithe V45 seal is a discontinued part. A bit annoying as I'll have to pull the wheels and rotors off etc to fit them. Thought it might be of interest….

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      I guess if the grease is sticky enough (ended up going with the Penrite Hi-Temp Bearing Grease) leakage at the dust shield is probably not going to be as likely as a conventional oil seal situation, amusing thing was that passenger side had the seal correctly fitted but the driver side they had reversed it so that the bevelled flange was facing away from the bearing!