Repco house brand is green.
Nina's 1981 244 GL - "Billie"
Also I picked up a jerry can for Billie
It's clear last I used it new last week.Slowbrick;119039 wroteRepco house brand is green.
I'm glad the heat shield is good to use. Mcm happen to be using thier stuff now too...
Maybe they have different suppliers? I got some on the shelf that I put into the Vitara and it was definitely green :SVee_Que;119045 wroteIt's clear last I used it new last week.Slowbrick;119039 wroteRepco house brand is green.
a month later
Billie's brake still goes soft. I really notice it sitting at the lights when the system has warmed up. You sit there and over 30 seconds or so the pedal slowly goes soft. Looking at the master, I can see evidence of fluid leaking around the rubber seal between the reservoir and the cylinder.
The master that's in there is a cheapie aftermarket I got from Ash when I just needed an MC in a hurry as I was in the middle of moving house. That was two years ago. I think I'm going to buy a Volvo OE master.
The master that's in there is a cheapie aftermarket I got from Ash when I just needed an MC in a hurry as I was in the middle of moving house. That was two years ago. I think I'm going to buy a Volvo OE master.
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Most brands of brake fluid are green aren't they? The only one I've used that isn't green is Nulon.
I've had master cylinders leak down too. I've used numerous Protex master and slave cylinders on other cars with 100% success rate. If they're available for your application I wouldn't hesitate using them.
I've had master cylinders leak down too. I've used numerous Protex master and slave cylinders on other cars with 100% success rate. If they're available for your application I wouldn't hesitate using them.
I use clearish stuff that goes brownish with age, and I've used plenty of blue stuff at the dealer
How about heat soak from the turbo as a possible contributory cause? Is there a heat shield for the MC?jamesinc;122110 wroteBillie's brake still goes soft. I really notice it sitting at the lights when the system has warmed up.
I was thinking of this recently when looking under the hoods of a NA 940 and The Cleever, which have their ABS systems on opposite sides of the car, and wondered if they ran the brake lines differently on RHD NAs and turbos because of heat soak problems, rather than space issues.
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Scroll upbgpzfm142;122137 wroteIs there a heat shield for the MC?
Besides, the slow loss of pedal pressure (up to a point - the pedal doesn't bottom out entirely) leads me to think it's the valving in the MC or something, rather than boiling the fluid. The current fluid is only a month old, and even without the heat shield we had fluid in for at least 6 months before it started getting soft. So my thoughts are that the biggest problem by far is some kind of fault in the MC. It might explain also why the brake failure block engages sometimes, if there's a valve leaking, it might be applying uneven system pressure.
Proportioning valve? You should swap it out to an adjustable burn out one anyway.
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I've had cheap master cylinder's fail when adding new fluid. Fail = slow internal leak and loss of pedal pressure. When I still ran a Volvo master, I found the ATE oem spec master cylinder to be similarly priced to a Chinese Protex unit from ATAP and much better quality.jamesinc;122139 wroteScroll upbgpzfm142;122137 wroteIs there a heat shield for the MC?
Besides, the slow loss of pedal pressure (up to a point - the pedal doesn't bottom out entirely) leads me to think it's the valving in the MC or something, rather than boiling the fluid. The current fluid is only a month old, and even without the heat shield we had fluid in for at least 6 months before it started getting soft. So my thoughts are that the biggest problem by far is some kind of fault in the MC. It might explain also why the brake failure block engages sometimes, if there's a valve leaking, it might be applying uneven system pressure.
Yes, I discovered last night Ate branded masters are like $20
7 days later
w o r k i n g
a i r
c o n d i t i o n i n g
Man that was more effort than I would have liked.
a i r
c o n d i t i o n i n g
Man that was more effort than I would have liked.
Did you add the AC in?
It did have (non-functional) AC originally, but when we put the B230 in I added a native R134a compressor. I replaced all the o-rings and dryer. I need to relay the low speed of the efan to the compressor clutch, but I am just waiting on a relay to arrive in the mail.Slowbrick;122623 wroteDid you add the AC in?
I've got like 10 of the stock p80 relays in stockjamesinc;122625 wroteIt did have (non-functional) AC originally, but when we put the B230 in I added a native R134a compressor. I replaced all the o-rings and dryer. I need to relay the low speed of the efan to the compressor clutch, but I am just waiting on a relay to arrive in the mail.Slowbrick;122623 wroteDid you add the AC in?
I already have that relay pack, this is a relay on that relay. For posterity, here is how I've got everything set up (fuses not shown):Philia_Bear;122629 wroteI've got like 10 of the stock p80 relays in stockjamesinc;122625 wroteIt did have (non-functional) AC originally, but when we put the B230 in I added a native R134a compressor. I replaced all the o-rings and dryer. I need to relay the low speed of the efan to the compressor clutch, but I am just waiting on a relay to arrive in the mail.Slowbrick;122623 wroteDid you add the AC in?
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I had to change that wiring diagram slightly. The voltage drop across the relay was too great and the clutch wasn't engaging. So instead now the relay and clutch are in parallel.
The whole system is putting a pretty big load on the alternator, I'm going to change it out for a 100A to be safe.
I might also add a 10" pusher fan to the front of the condenser. I also need to potentially change the heater control valve as it seems to let a small amount of coolant by even when set to cold (checked cable adjustment already).
Finally, I need to seal up the many vast gaps around the radiator and intercooler to encourage better airflow. I'm going to buy some sheet aluminium for this, and a metal bending brake (I've wanted a sheet metal bender for ages, I'm half tempted to make my own, but they're very cheap on eBay)
Revised:
The whole system is putting a pretty big load on the alternator, I'm going to change it out for a 100A to be safe.
I might also add a 10" pusher fan to the front of the condenser. I also need to potentially change the heater control valve as it seems to let a small amount of coolant by even when set to cold (checked cable adjustment already).
Finally, I need to seal up the many vast gaps around the radiator and intercooler to encourage better airflow. I'm going to buy some sheet aluminium for this, and a metal bending brake (I've wanted a sheet metal bender for ages, I'm half tempted to make my own, but they're very cheap on eBay)
Revised:
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I took the car back to my AC guy this morning with the fan hooked up and we re-tested the system pressures, and it's good! Head pressure is nice and stable and the low side line is ice cold. Air in the cabin is only mild, but that's because the heater valve isn't closing properly.
I ordered one of the new-style heater valve retrofit kits. I have to say, I've built a car from a shell, but the AC in this car and in Amy really takes the cake for throwing money at something. I suppose next step is tinted windows.
I ordered one of the new-style heater valve retrofit kits. I have to say, I've built a car from a shell, but the AC in this car and in Amy really takes the cake for throwing money at something. I suppose next step is tinted windows.