I noticed you said you would use a audi maf, having issues with mine atm in the the c30, so just wondering are these bigger and is it a straight swap with no codes
MATT'S C70 AWD "R" BUILD
That's absolutely right. The bigger MAF is to suit the stage 4 tune needed for the bigger turbo. You can't just swap one in without the computer being remapped to suit it.
Thanks guys ione more quick question while i have your attention i removed auxiliary brake vacuum pump (as on seen on xr5 models) was for over 2 weeks then add just a simple cold air pipe up to the pod and now out of no where getting p0100 and p0101 codes
Should i buy a new maf or put it back to original as was working fine for some time, need the issues gone this weekend
Volski check for air leaks at the silicon joiner to the turbo and also make sure if there's any unused ports on the intake that they're blocked off. Also if that's an oiled pod filter it has probably coated the maf sensor and is upsetting the reading to the ecu so give it a clean with maf cleaner. If the filter is oiled either get a dry one or blast off the excess oil with compressed air
THE ENGINE
The Engine is being upgraded with a K16 turbo for a MK2 RS.
The first thing to do is remove the head to install block shims.
This is a mod Recommended when upping the power of these engines to help prevent the block cracking.
I leak tested the Valves and had the head refaced before reinstalling it.
The K16 Turbo finally arrived after being on backorder for about 6 months.
You can see the difference in size of the K16 over the original K04 Turbo.
The bigger turbo hits the heatsheild for the angle gear
I had to modify the edge by cutting out the edge, bending the top down and welding it back together.
The original coolant lines still fit but the oil lines and PCV Valve don’t and need to order the RS ones.
I ordered the genuine ford oil drain pipe and PCV Valve but opted to make up the oil feed using Aeroflow AN hose & fittings.
The Elevate plenum was in raw aluminium, painted Satin black.
Recoloured all the black plastics with Bowdens trim restorer kit. (the timing gear cover is not yet done for comparison)
Cleaned up the engine bay ready for the engine to go in.
Engine is all back together and ready to go in.
Using a MK2 RS ECU mount
I worked out earlier the reason the AWD subframe sits lower is to allow enough clearance between the angle gear and the steering rack.
With the FWD subframe it fits but there's not much clearance
So I raised the engine 10mm to give that clearance.
Raised the engine by making 10mm spaces to go under the engine mounts.
The engine is put together and ready to go back in.
Engine is finally in
With the engine spaces up the torque mount then wouldn't line up. A new one had to be made.
I measures and CAD Designed it, then 3d printed a prototype to check the fitment.
I could then get the part made from my drawing.
To use the RS ECU mount I had to reconfigure the engine loom to get the plugs over the the ECU.
Getting the engine bay back together and the front end on with the cooling pack with the Elevate intercooler form the donor S40
With the extra torque going through the auto trans, I Added an additional trans oil cooler with a bypass thermostat.
The extra cooler is connected to the outlet of the stock cooler and returns to the transmission.
Hello
Very nice project and result. I lve in Sweden and I am thinking doing the same as you did and will follow your project.
I hava a question about the rear brakes. You write that you have used the Mazda 5 brake Carrier. Do you have the part number or what year and model, engine i must look for to find this part.
Best regards
Razvan
Your S60R, my S60R and the one for sale https://ozvolvo.org/d/30309-act-2004-s60r-black-awd-geartronic-12-mths-rego-16000-ono all came down the production line at the same time as the chassis numbers are within 46 units.
That's interesting. Is yours also complianced as an 05 like mine, despite being built in 03?
SwedVolvoc70 The Mazda part No. for the rear caliper brackets is C2Y6-26-28XA.
I've been meaning to do an update on the car as I've had it on the road for 6 months now. I still have a few loose ends and gremlins to sort out before I can call it finished. I plan to start putting more info up soon including all the part Numbers of genuine parts used.