AshDVS Excellent project! Great work and Nev is a good bloke and source of AWD P1 info (as is @timbo , but that was simply implied. ;) )I have a pair of Heico C70 rear springs here if they're of use to you.
MattJ It's been a while since adding more post. I've been busy working away at it. The next few post shows the last 6 months of work. FUEL TANK Cleaned up and installed the AWD fuel tank. I had to reconfigure the AWD tank harness to make it fit in the C70. The C70's fuel filter pipe won't fit with the AWD subframe and the AWD pipe won't fit around the C70's boot floor. I had to cut up both to make it fit. I had to find some fuel resistant hose to fit the pipes to join them. Modified the C70,s rear heat sheild to fit with the cutout floor. REAR AXLE Installed the rear axle assembly. FRONT AXLE The AWD subframe is spaced about 1" lower than the FWD one. As I'm lowering the car this will cause issues. So I'll use the C70's original one. Pulled out the front subframe, stripped it and cleaned all the gunk off it. Gave the subframe a coat of paint along with a few other parts. Reassembled the front subrrame with new arm from Superpro with poly bushes. New tierods and ends in the rack. Whiteline adjustable sway bar for a Mk3 Focus ST. Due to the shape of the bar It needed 10mm spaces under the mounts. Cleaned up, painted and reassembled the swivel hubs FRONT BRAKES & UPRIGHTS Another pat of the R upgrade is the brakes. I purchased a set of new Brembo calipers for the MK3 RS from Tasca Parts in the US. They were only about US$150 each. Trial fitted them before I took the car off the road. To make them fit the earlier P1s the disk needs to be spaced 5mm off the hub and drill out the mounting holes on the stub axle from 12mm to 14mm. I like the look of the Gold Polestar brakes fitted on the new model Volvos. I repainted them in S60 Maya Gold and applied Brembo stickers I made up. Disc are 350mm DBA slotted T2 for MK3 RS 5mm spaces to go under the disc. Brake hoses are Hell braded hoses for MK3 RS Callipers are bolted on using 14mm Calliper bolts for a P3 Volvo Assembled the front uprights with Bilstein B14 Coil over struts, Whiteline adjustable drop links and the Mk3 RS Brembo Brakes. Difference between the original uprights and my new ones The hole setup in the car. fits perfectly inside the C70(18x8) R design wheel. REAR BRAKES Like the front the rear brakes are upgraded to MK3 RS spec. The RS uses the same Calliper as the P1 Volvos but with a larger disc. The clippers are the standard Volvo calliper with Mazda 5 Carrier brackets to mount them further out. The discs are 302mm DBA slotted T2 for MK3 RS Brake hoses are Hell braded hoses for MK3 RS the calliper and carrier bracket are painted in Maya Gold to match the front.
Volski I noticed you said you would use a audi maf, having issues with mine atm in the the c30, so just wondering are these bigger and is it a straight swap with no codes
timbo Volski you have to have a specific tune that's scaled for the Audi maf and I think you also need to change the connector @MattJ amazing work! I bet your itching to be able to drive it
MattJ That's absolutely right. The bigger MAF is to suit the stage 4 tune needed for the bigger turbo. You can't just swap one in without the computer being remapped to suit it.
Volski Thanks guys ione more quick question while i have your attention i removed auxiliary brake vacuum pump (as on seen on xr5 models) was for over 2 weeks then add just a simple cold air pipe up to the pod and now out of no where getting p0100 and p0101 codes🙄
Volski Should i buy a new maf or put it back to original as was working fine for some time, need the issues gone this weekend
timbo Volski check for air leaks at the silicon joiner to the turbo and also make sure if there's any unused ports on the intake that they're blocked off. Also if that's an oiled pod filter it has probably coated the maf sensor and is upsetting the reading to the ecu so give it a clean with maf cleaner. If the filter is oiled either get a dry one or blast off the excess oil with compressed air
MattJ THE ENGINE The Engine is being upgraded with a K16 turbo for a MK2 RS. The first thing to do is remove the head to install block shims. This is a mod Recommended when upping the power of these engines to help prevent the block cracking. I leak tested the Valves and had the head refaced before reinstalling it. The K16 Turbo finally arrived after being on backorder for about 6 months. You can see the difference in size of the K16 over the original K04 Turbo. The bigger turbo hits the heatsheild for the angle gear I had to modify the edge by cutting out the edge, bending the top down and welding it back together. The original coolant lines still fit but the oil lines and PCV Valve don’t and need to order the RS ones. I ordered the genuine ford oil drain pipe and PCV Valve but opted to make up the oil feed using Aeroflow AN hose & fittings. The Elevate plenum was in raw aluminium, painted Satin black. Recoloured all the black plastics with Bowdens trim restorer kit. (the timing gear cover is not yet done for comparison) Cleaned up the engine bay ready for the engine to go in. Engine is all back together and ready to go in. Using a MK2 RS ECU mount I worked out earlier the reason the AWD subframe sits lower is to allow enough clearance between the angle gear and the steering rack. With the FWD subframe it fits but there's not much clearance So I raised the engine 10mm to give that clearance. Raised the engine by making 10mm spaces to go under the engine mounts. The engine is put together and ready to go back in. Engine is finally in With the engine spaces up the torque mount then wouldn't line up. A new one had to be made. I measures and CAD Designed it, then 3d printed a prototype to check the fitment. I could then get the part made from my drawing. To use the RS ECU mount I had to reconfigure the engine loom to get the plugs over the the ECU. Getting the engine bay back together and the front end on with the cooling pack with the Elevate intercooler form the donor S40 With the extra torque going through the auto trans, I Added an additional trans oil cooler with a bypass thermostat. The extra cooler is connected to the outlet of the stock cooler and returns to the transmission.
SwedVolvoc70 Hello Very nice project and result. I lve in Sweden and I am thinking doing the same as you did and will follow your project. I hava a question about the rear brakes. You write that you have used the Mazda 5 brake Carrier. Do you have the part number or what year and model, engine i must look for to find this part. Best regards Razvan
MattJ SwedVolvoc70 The Mazda part No. for the rear caliper brackets is C2Y6-26-28XA. I've been meaning to do an update on the car as I've had it on the road for 6 months now. I still have a few loose ends and gremlins to sort out before I can call it finished. I plan to start putting more info up soon including all the part Numbers of genuine parts used.
VolvoMike Your S60R, my S60R and the one for sale https://ozvolvo.org/d/30309-act-2004-s60r-black-awd-geartronic-12-mths-rego-16000-ono all came down the production line at the same time as the chassis numbers are within 46 units.
