Shady’s 1995 850 T-5R

Don’t believe that’s a T-5R interior, think it’s a P80 S/V/C70. Just a picture I found off the net. I’ve decided against installing an aftermarket stereo, for the sake of period correctness I’m going to go with a Yatour bluetooth adapter behind the factory head unit. Kind of want to go for the OEM+ vibe.

They are quite different. S/V70 ones do not have metal underneath, they are full rubber so they don’t peel. I might coat mine as they are quite faded (although match the rest of the faded trim).

Bit of an update - the tint has been refreshed (wish I had done this before summer) and had some pretty major mechanical work done. PCV system replaced, all new engine seals and an engine mount replaced. Oil pick up filter cleaned out and engine refreshed with all new oil. No more noisy hydraulic lifters! However it now sounds like I’ve got a BOV… suspect boost leak somewhere, need to have a look.

The headlining is being done in the next few weeks - going with charcoal alcantara to match the door pillars, even though the seats are black. Going to have a crack at painting the plastic trim on the weekend.

rado

How'd you go with the spacers on the rear ?

I went with 15mm in the end. Had to remove some of the plastic guard as it rubbed under hard cornering, but looks the goods ?

I’ve got yours in the box ready to give back, let me know if you’ll be at the next Classics and I’ll bring them along!

AshDVS

I'd suggest 9002 alcantara, rather than 9052 alcantara for the roof lining.

My roof lining is almost black and matches the charcoal plastic trim pieces really well.

The Volvo seat insert alcantara is closer to 9002 (darker) than 9052. I know this because I accidentally ordered, and received earlier this week, my console lid trim and handbrake boot in 9052.

Both are distinctly different to my steering wheel (alcantara 9002) and it's quite obvious. In the right lighting conditions, 9052 can look quite dark, but its a long way from black. In higher natural light, 9052 is a lot closer to a lighter colour grey.

Bugger! At least they’re relatively small and can be redone. Not that alcantara is cheap.

According to google, 9052 is ‘charcoal’ and 9002 is ‘dark charcoal’. I did look at 9002 on the colour chart and it looked black, which is why I went with 9052.

After reading your post I phoned the place that’s doing the work and asked if it could be changed to 9002, they said they’ll see what they can do but it’s probably already been shipped from Italy ?

Haven’t been driving much due to the unpredictable weather, I need to replace the sunroof seal as it tends to leak with heavy rain. Hoping to tackle it before the headlining gets done in the next few weeks.

I suspect the CBV diaphragm is torn - since I got it back from the mechanic it’s developed turbo flutter. I’m wondering if replacing it with the Forge CBV will cause any issues with a stock turbo? I do plan on going with a bigger turbo but not for a while.

Looking to improve the handling also - it’s good but not great. Delrin subframe bushings seem like a solid option that won’t increase NVH too much. Might replace all other suspension and engine bushings with rubber as I’m concerned poly will make the rattles worse. Other than that probably just try and source some sway bars and anti strut brace. Is there a difference between the T-5R and R strut braces? Not keen on the iPd ones really.

In good company at classic cars and coffee yesterday ?

AshDVS

In terms of improving handling, there's a good amount you can do and the P80 platform is pretty responsive to change.

Delrin subframe mounts are a good idea and offer a far more predictable change in handling than a urethane insert in an aging oem/rubber type subframe mount.

Delrin subframe mounts are absolutely harder (greater shore rating) than a rubber mount. This being the case, you should consider what mounts/bushes you use in other locations.

I'd stick with a good quality oem style mount as the torque mount (lower, connects to gearbox) - urethane here will have a short service life and will have an impact on NVH.

For the lower control arm bushes, the same applies here. A decent quality replacement arm (with new bushes and a new balljoint) is ideal, a bush higher in shore here is ok but will absolutely have an increase in NVH here and, particularly on the earlier P80 cars with two-bolt LCAs, the load on the bush will mean that a urethane bush has a fairly short service life.

Strut mounts, spring seats and front swaybar links all also have a big impact on handling too.

In the rear, outer delta link bushes are the common(ish) failure, inners perhaps less so. There's no decent 'better' option here, so replace with standard.

P80 FWD cars respond well to an increase in rear swaybar size, but I certainly wouldnt increase front bar size. If front swaybar D bushes are worn, you can replace these with an aftermarket bush. I think @Drwillis detailed this in his V70R build thread for reference. A bigger rear bar will help with turn-in and makes them a more 'fun' car to drive.

In your car, I'm not sure if you have the Nivomat rear end or not but over time these get soft/squishy in the rear and you can easily replace this with the conventional spring and shock arrangement in the rear. Decent springs and shocks/struts will yield a nice improvement in handling and you'll get a small ride height drop in T-5R and R models too (using something like an Eibach or H&R product).

Happy to provide more information on any part of the above and bounce around any ideas you might have.

This is great info, cheers Ash.

I’m pretty sure it was only wagons came with the Nivomats.

Is the Ultra Racing rear sway bar any good? And you’d recommend going poly for the sway bar D bushes?

Sounds like OE rubber would be the way to go for everything else ?

rado

Nice pictures there , I looked at mine when I got home and only had about six lol . Thought I took more . Looking good ?

Forge CBV , yes that'll go on the standard turbo no problem, I had mine on the standard turbo then on the turbo I'm running atm .

With the top engine mount , I've heard the poly is OK but don't change to poly for the one in the scuttle panel (small one ) .

As Ash says front swaybar bushes may need replacing, these are fun to get out , I drilled and burned mine out with a blow torch and changed to poly with lock rings , there's a brief right up in my thread .

Wish I went with Delrin subframe mounts, mine are good so I went with poly inserts. Worked well as it goes but should have just gone with the Delrin.

Just got the delta links to go , Ash has helped all the way , Legend ?

Plenty of strut brace options out there , mine is an OBX but later will be swapping to a DVS , @AshDVS any difference between the T5R and R strut brace ?

Thanks! Glad you could make it.

As @AshDVS mentioned the OEM Volvo strut brace is best for the T-5R as it needs to clear the ABS module. Finding a RHD one is proving very difficult, seen a couple overseas but shipping is outrageous.