The Polestar has lovely black Alcantara headlining too.
Shady’s 1995 850 T-5R
Never really thought about different colours, are those Volvo colours and codes then ?
When I had the other car done I just went for black suede...
radoNever really thought about different colours, are those Volvo colours and codes then ?
When I had the other car done I just went for black suede...
They're just the formal 'Alcantara' codes, so that you can ask for a specific one and it shouldn't vary if you buy it from X vs buying from Y.
If you've asked for black, it should be 9040.
AshDVSJust thinking about this a little bit further, given that it's on the roof, it wont see much natural light, so 9052 could still appear dark enough.
Here's probably the best online swatch I can find - it appears pretty accurate against the actual colours -
https://cdn.ozvolvo.org/uploads/28Q18G41T50Q/alcantara-jpg.jpg
Compare that 9002 to this - very different.
They hadn’t sent it yet so I thought better to go with 9002. Just not sure how dark it’s going to be, guess we will find out!
21 days later
Haven’t been driving much due to the unpredictable weather, I need to replace the sunroof seal as it tends to leak with heavy rain. Hoping to tackle it before the headlining gets done in the next few weeks.
I suspect the CBV diaphragm is torn - since I got it back from the mechanic it’s developed turbo flutter. I’m wondering if replacing it with the Forge CBV will cause any issues with a stock turbo? I do plan on going with a bigger turbo but not for a while.
Looking to improve the handling also - it’s good but not great. Delrin subframe bushings seem like a solid option that won’t increase NVH too much. Might replace all other suspension and engine bushings with rubber as I’m concerned poly will make the rattles worse. Other than that probably just try and source some sway bars and anti strut brace. Is there a difference between the T-5R and R strut braces? Not keen on the iPd ones really.
In good company at classic cars and coffee yesterday ?
In terms of improving handling, there's a good amount you can do and the P80 platform is pretty responsive to change.
Delrin subframe mounts are a good idea and offer a far more predictable change in handling than a urethane insert in an aging oem/rubber type subframe mount.
Delrin subframe mounts are absolutely harder (greater shore rating) than a rubber mount. This being the case, you should consider what mounts/bushes you use in other locations.
I'd stick with a good quality oem style mount as the torque mount (lower, connects to gearbox) - urethane here will have a short service life and will have an impact on NVH.
For the lower control arm bushes, the same applies here. A decent quality replacement arm (with new bushes and a new balljoint) is ideal, a bush higher in shore here is ok but will absolutely have an increase in NVH here and, particularly on the earlier P80 cars with two-bolt LCAs, the load on the bush will mean that a urethane bush has a fairly short service life.
Strut mounts, spring seats and front swaybar links all also have a big impact on handling too.
In the rear, outer delta link bushes are the common(ish) failure, inners perhaps less so. There's no decent 'better' option here, so replace with standard.
P80 FWD cars respond well to an increase in rear swaybar size, but I certainly wouldnt increase front bar size. If front swaybar D bushes are worn, you can replace these with an aftermarket bush. I think @Drwillis detailed this in his V70R build thread for reference. A bigger rear bar will help with turn-in and makes them a more 'fun' car to drive.
In your car, I'm not sure if you have the Nivomat rear end or not but over time these get soft/squishy in the rear and you can easily replace this with the conventional spring and shock arrangement in the rear. Decent springs and shocks/struts will yield a nice improvement in handling and you'll get a small ride height drop in T-5R and R models too (using something like an Eibach or H&R product).
Happy to provide more information on any part of the above and bounce around any ideas you might have.
- Edited
Nice pictures there , I looked at mine when I got home and only had about six lol . Thought I took more . Looking good ?
Forge CBV , yes that'll go on the standard turbo no problem, I had mine on the standard turbo then on the turbo I'm running atm .
With the top engine mount , I've heard the poly is OK but don't change to poly for the one in the scuttle panel (small one ) .
As Ash says front swaybar bushes may need replacing, these are fun to get out , I drilled and burned mine out with a blow torch and changed to poly with lock rings , there's a brief right up in my thread .
Wish I went with Delrin subframe mounts, mine are good so I went with poly inserts. Worked well as it goes but should have just gone with the Delrin.
Just got the delta links to go , Ash has helped all the way , Legend ?
Plenty of strut brace options out there , mine is an OBX but later will be swapping to a DVS , @AshDVS any difference between the T5R and R strut brace ?
Good point. Keep the firewall mount an oem type (there's a better, updated style for that) and the upper engine one can be urethane - I've got a delrin one here but there is noticeable increase in NVH (they do last very well though - so we commonly sell them to our motorsport customers).
For a T-5R, the easiest way to go is the genuine Volvo one. MY94 and MY95 cars are unique in how the ABS module (and bracket) hangs off the passenger side strut tower, so to fit our strut brace, there's a bit to do to modify the ABS module mount.
For MY96 cars, it's easy. Bolt in on and you're done.
For MY97-MY00 (and up to 2005 for C70) cars, you modify the fusebox bracket (we can provide one) and you're done.
Genuine Volvo strut braces are different between LHD and RHD due to the master cylinder and booster location. LHD cars use a fairly straight brace, save for two pressed 'kinks' where it meets the top plate. RHD cars have the 'squiggly' brace, which zig zags its way around the top of the engine bay.
I wonder if the OBX brace will fit the MY94 and MY95 cars. If it does, perhaps your brace, @rado, could make it's way onto @shadycourgette's car and we can get a DVS brace on its way to you. Just a thought.
The volvo C70 squiggly zig zag brace
AshDVSIn terms of improving handling, there's a good amount you can do and the P80 platform is pretty responsive to change.
Delrin subframe mounts are a good idea and offer a far more predictable change in handling than a urethane insert in an aging oem/rubber type subframe mount.
Delrin subframe mounts are absolutely harder (greater shore rating) than a rubber mount. This being the case, you should consider what mounts/bushes you use in other locations.
I'd stick with a good quality oem style mount as the torque mount (lower, connects to gearbox) - urethane here will have a short service life and will have an impact on NVH.
For the lower control arm bushes, the same applies here. A decent quality replacement arm (with new bushes and a new balljoint) is ideal, a bush higher in shore here is ok but will absolutely have an increase in NVH here and, particularly on the earlier P80 cars with two-bolt LCAs, the load on the bush will mean that a urethane bush has a fairly short service life.
Strut mounts, spring seats and front swaybar links all also have a big impact on handling too.
In the rear, outer delta link bushes are the common(ish) failure, inners perhaps less so. There's no decent 'better' option here, so replace with standard.
P80 FWD cars respond well to an increase in rear swaybar size, but I certainly wouldnt increase front bar size. If front swaybar D bushes are worn, you can replace these with an aftermarket bush. I think @Drwillis detailed this in his V70R build thread for reference. A bigger rear bar will help with turn-in and makes them a more 'fun' car to drive.
In your car, I'm not sure if you have the Nivomat rear end or not but over time these get soft/squishy in the rear and you can easily replace this with the conventional spring and shock arrangement in the rear. Decent springs and shocks/struts will yield a nice improvement in handling and you'll get a small ride height drop in T-5R and R models too (using something like an Eibach or H&R product).
Happy to provide more information on any part of the above and bounce around any ideas you might have.
This is great info, cheers Ash.
I’m pretty sure it was only wagons came with the Nivomats.
Is the Ultra Racing rear sway bar any good? And you’d recommend going poly for the sway bar D bushes?
Sounds like OE rubber would be the way to go for everything else ?
radoNice pictures there , I looked at mine when I got home and only had about six lol . Thought I took more . Looking good ?
Forge CBV , yes that'll go on the standard turbo no problem, I had mine on the standard turbo then on the turbo I'm running atm .
With the top engine mount , I've heard the poly is OK but don't change to poly for the one in the scuttle panel (small one ) .
As Ash says front swaybar bushes may need replacing, these are fun to get out , I drilled and burned mine out with a blow torch and changed to poly with lock rings , there's a brief right up in my thread .
Wish I went with Delrin subframe mounts, mine are good so I went with poly inserts. Worked well as it goes but should have just gone with the Delrin.
Just got the delta links to go , Ash has helped all the way , Legend ?
Plenty of strut brace options out there , mine is an OBX but later will be swapping to a DVS , @AshDVS any difference between the T5R and R strut brace ?
Thanks! Glad you could make it.
As @AshDVS mentioned the OEM Volvo strut brace is best for the T-5R as it needs to clear the ABS module. Finding a RHD one is proving very difficult, seen a couple overseas but shipping is outrageous.
shadycourgettehttps://ozvolvo.org/discussion/comment/204408#Comment_204408
This is great info, cheers Ash.
I’m pretty sure it was only wagons came with the Nivomats.
Is the Ultra Racing rear sway bar any good? And you’d recommend going poly for the sway bar D bushes?
Sounds like OE rubber would be the way to go for everything else ?
No worries.
For swaybar D bushes, urethane is a good material to use here, with the only issue being that the bushes will try to 'walk' on the bar unless you make use of the collars to keep the bush in place, this is pretty common with urethane used like this.
Whiteline and SuperPro offer products to suit.
shadycourgettehttps://ozvolvo.org/discussion/comment/204411#Comment_204411
Thanks! Glad you could make it.
As @AshDVS mentioned the OEM Volvo strut brace is best for the T-5R as it needs to clear the ABS module. Finding a RHD one is proving very difficult, seen a couple overseas but shipping is outrageous.
Not sure about the 'best' but it'll definitely clear the MY94 and MY95 ABS module and anything mounted to the strut towers. Sourcing from the UK might be doable but freight will be expensive. I've had two of these braces now - I got both when I bought sets of Ohlins struts to rebuild. For a while they were pretty easy to come across and weren't particularly desirable but I believe they're discontinued now.
Braces are discontinued, UK sellers are now asking $400-$600 without shipping, dam we used to sell these for less than a $100 just a few years back
I’m aware that they’ve been discontinued, but I refuse to pay silly money for one. I‘ve asked Mark Iceton to keep an eye out for me, he’s always reasonable with his pricing.
The last two I had, I sold for $100-$150. $400-$600 is definitely in my view of 'silly money'. They're ok but there's certainly more effective/functional braces out there (even beyond what we offer).
@shadycourgette , you asked a question about the Ultra Racing swaybar offering earlier and I missed it and didnt provide a response.
In short, their rear bar is pretty good and would be my preference (now) over the IPD offering. Back in maybe 2014/2015, we'd been looking at reselling them. We got an eval P80 rear bar and fitted it to my 1998 V70T5. Finish was 'ok' but not brilliant and it required minor modification to fit. Unless you have a hoist and were ok with taking a grinder to a brand new bar to make it fit, you might have been unhappy.
From a reseller viewpoint, while the bar we got may have been an exception, this made me lose interest in taking them on to resell.
Fast forward some time, all of the Ultra Racing swaybars I've seen since then (with no exceptions) had nicer welding than the one we got and I havent heard of anyone who the issues we had. Maybe we got a 'friday' bar.
I may reach out to them again and buy one in to eval it again to see if the experience is better this time around, being 7-8 years later.
AshDVSThe last two I had, I sold for $100-$150. $400-$600 is definitely in my view of 'silly money'. They're ok but there's certainly more effective/functional braces out there (even beyond what we offer).
@shadycourgette , you asked a question about the Ultra Racing swaybar offering earlier and I missed it and didnt provide a response.
In short, their rear bar is pretty good and would be my preference (now) over the IPD offering. Back in maybe 2014/2015, we'd been looking at reselling them. We got an eval P80 rear bar and fitted it to my 1998 V70T5. Finish was 'ok' but not brilliant and it required minor modification to fit. Unless you have a hoist and were ok with taking a grinder to a brand new bar to make it fit, you might have been unhappy.
From a reseller viewpoint, while the bar we got may have been an exception, this made me lose interest in taking them on to resell.
Fast forward some time, all of the Ultra Racing swaybars I've seen since then (with no exceptions) had nicer welding than the one we got and I havent heard of anyone who the issues we had. Maybe we got a 'friday' bar.
I may reach out to them again and buy one in to eval it again to see if the experience is better this time around, being 7-8 years later.
What strut brace would you go with, given the clearance issues of the MY94/95? Hard to know what fits and what doesn’t, is for LHD only, etc.. I have seen a lot of people recommending OMP but I’m pretty sure they’ve been discontinued as well.
that’s good to know about the Ultra Racing sway bar. I’ll probably bite the bullet on one when I get around to doing a Viva order.
I'd likely trawl around for a cheap genuine Volvo 'squiggly' one but I didnt realise they were that overpriced these days, I've never seen an OMP P80 one in person, so cant make comment on that really.
Otherwise, I'd just keep an eye out for anyone selling one or regularly check UK ebay or one of the UK based Volvo forums.
AshDVSThe last two I had, I sold for $100-$150. $400-$600 is definitely in my view of 'silly money'. They're ok but there's certainly more effective/functional braces out there (even beyond what we offer).
@shadycourgette , you asked a question about the Ultra Racing swaybar offering earlier and I missed it and didnt provide a response.
In short, their rear bar is pretty good and would be my preference (now) over the IPD offering. Back in maybe 2014/2015, we'd been looking at reselling them. We got an eval P80 rear bar and fitted it to my 1998 V70T5. Finish was 'ok' but not brilliant and it required minor modification to fit. Unless you have a hoist and were ok with taking a grinder to a brand new bar to make it fit, you might have been unhappy.
From a reseller viewpoint, while the bar we got may have been an exception, this made me lose interest in taking them on to resell.
Fast forward some time, all of the Ultra Racing swaybars I've seen since then (with no exceptions) had nicer welding than the one we got and I havent heard of anyone who the issues we had. Maybe we got a 'friday' bar.
I may reach out to them again and buy one in to eval it again to see if the experience is better this time around, being 7-8 years later.
I'll take some pix but my LCAs in nice blue from them are ok, some weld spatter which in this day and age of good machines is pretty crap esp when its production run......
Iam pretty sure I paid $150 for my squiggly bar and postage interstate.
Not sure if this helps but here is the part number I took a photo of it before I got the brace powder coated.
