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  • [solved] Noisy diff - failed front pinion bearing

9 days later

Awesome stuff, you have done a great job. Glad i didn't try to DIY myself

Thanks, its not back together yet though.

I have been waiting on some parts for weeks now so I can finish and they were only coming from VIC. The stuff I ordered from the UK only took about 7 days. I'm sure its due to the Rona.

I will update once reassembly begins.

How much would you charge if you had to do the job again for someone?

  • Joel replied to this.
    ramrod

    How much would you charge if you had to do the job again for someone?

    I don't have any plans to rebuild differentials for other people but I would be willing to lease out my pinion tool to those who want to rebuild their own, would just require a refundable deposit to ensure I get the tool back.

    Best to send me a private message.

    Thanks for detailing everything - I've updated the thread title to help people find it from search engines as I'm sure it'll help others.

    I am still waiting for those parts to finish this job but I have lodged a lost claim with Australia Post now because its almost been 4 weeks since they were posted by the supplier.

    Today I managed to get the Haldex system off the CV joint by sliding a punch through the back and tapping it off. Since I was able to rotate the Haldex system it gave me enough access to get the punch in and it came off pretty easy.

    Up on the bench I replaced the Haldex filter, all the oil is out anyway so now is the best time to service it. Mine is a Gen 3 or 4 unit and the Volvo part number for the filter kit is 31325173 but they share part numbers with Ford Kuga from 2009 - 2014 search part numbers Ford Kuga AWD for Haldex 9V4N4A319AA 1673828 8U7J8708687AA Oil and Filter Kit and you will pay much less for the same thing. Cost me $121 AUD for both filter kit and oil including delivery.

    I wanted to service the pump too as per this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZNC06Z7imQ&t=274s

    but my car has a larger CV flange and I was not able to remove it unless I removed the CV flange too.

    Also decided to service the front angle gear while the car is up on stands. This job is a serious PITA and if I had my time again I would not bother. Simply remove the magnetic fill plug, give it a clean and top up the fluid.

    The oil was not dirty at all and my car has almost 200k kms on it, stupid Volvo not putting drain plugs on their differentials makes these simple jobs so hard to do. The hose size I needed to fit in there and suck the oil out was the size of a drinking straw and as you can imagine it took forever, as did refilling it, I got that stinky diff oil all over the place. oh well its done now.

    we also rebuild on site same day rebuild your unit and install all our parts are from the local Volvo dealer they do a kit just under $300 for parts

    13 days later

    I got my car back on the road today and everything seems good, no more noise and no oil leaks either at this stage so hopefully this is the end of it.

    Australia Post lost my parcel so after 4 weeks the seller recalled the item and I ordered the part again, it came 2 days later. Having to put it all back together 4 weeks after taking it apart was not great but it went back together well.

    Some thoughts on reassembly:

    You have to set the rotational torque when you install the pinion nut, a fancy tool I don't have so I used the method in the LR Freelander2 thread I linked. It feels tighter than you would think is correct if done to the specified torque value but as others have reported this is normal.

    Be careful replacing the main oil seal on the pinion shaft, you only get one shot, there is a proper tool but I didn't have it so had to tap it in gradually with some pipe of matching diameter. Fluid will leak from a small hole in the bottom of the diff if you get it wrong.

    To reinstall the subframe I jacked it up a little then put the fuel filter bracket back in place while its low and access is good. Next the prop shaft, then springs and then once up in position get the drive shafts in and do the lower control arms before any of the other arms as they are hardest to line up.

    You should probably get a wheel alignment after as I don't see how you can get the subframe back in the exact same position.

    So total cost of the repair including diff fluid and haldex service kit but not including the tools I had to buy was $270

    The pinion tool cost $251.

    I only replaced one bearing as the other bearings did not show any signs of wear, this simplified the job a lot.

    Joel

    Great write up Mate, something is abnormal when the case hardening on bearing rollers break down as depicted in the posts. I am keen to know whether they are of Chinese manufacture. My gearbox rebuilder acquaintance advised me that the 4WD gearbox market is flooded with the installation of Chinese bearings and failures are occurring whilst vehicles are in warranty. Frightening information is that the dealers will only supply the same brand of bearings to rebuild the boxes, next failure will probably be after warranty has expired. Bad times in the automobile industry.

    • Joel replied to this.
      Graeme

      Joel

      Great write up Mate, something is abnormal when the case hardening on bearing rollers break down as depicted in the posts. I am keen to know whether they are of Chinese manufacture. My gearbox rebuilder acquaintance advised me that the 4WD gearbox market is flooded with the installation of Chinese bearings and failures are occurring whilst vehicles are in warranty. Frightening information is that the dealers will only supply the same brand of bearings to rebuild the boxes, next failure will probably be after warranty has expired. Bad times in the automobile industry.

      Hi Graeme,

      The failed bearing was SKF brand and marked with India. My replacement bearing is a Timken brand which was marked with Poland.

      Below is from the LR forum thread I have been using as a guide, it lists the specified load ratings for this particular bearing.

      SKF - Cr=40200N, C0r=44000N

      NTN - Cr=43500N, C0r=48000N

      FAG - Cr=43500N, C0r=48000N

      Timken - Cr=49300N, C0r=51800N

      3 years later
      diecast

      In a previous thread earlier this year i detailed how my XC90 with over 200,000ks on the clock was starting to get a noisy rear diff. At the time i changed the diff oil and the oil that came out looked like brown metalic paint. The oil change and another one about a month later helped quieten the diff, but was never a solution. The diff had to be rebuilt but with only 1 Volvo specialist within 250km of me i guessed it would cost a bomb.

      I spent more than a few hours researching for answers and found out that certain models of Landrovers share the XC90 diff. I approached my local (Bathurst) Landrover specialist to see if he was interested in fixing the diff. He was familiar with the problem and said that Landrover do a sevice kit. The issue is the diff pinion bearing.

      Well he had the car for under a week, stripped and rebuilt the diff and replaced the haldex filter etc. The car is now as quiet as a mouse and the cost was just over $2k. I'm over the moon.

      Here is the worn out pinion bearing.

      https://cdn.ozvolvo.org/uploads/455/ZFP4YB4CRESZ.jpg

      Hi Diecast

      Would you mind sharing the mechanic's details?

      I have a Volvo XC90 V8, built in 2012 that is has started to while at speeds above 60. Its been getting worse gradually.

      Cheers

      There's a Melbourne shop that does exchange diff with BIG bearing so this never happens again, or , puts in a LR part.

      Ask Mark at Berry Motor Group or do the deal through them for ease of logistics.

        Ex850R

        There's a Melbourne shop that does exchange diff with BIG bearing so this never happens again, or , puts in a LR part.

        Ask Mark at Berry Motor Group or do the deal through them for ease of logistics.

        Thank you.

        Spoke to Mark, who gave me a contact in Sydney. Looks like it can be fixed for around 4k

        a month later

        I am new here as of today, but stumbled across this while trying to find a reason for the grinding noise coming from the rear of my 2010 XC70 with 300,000 kms on it.

        My mechanic (now ex mechanic) replaced the rear wheel bearings and said problem solved.

        Went back and he told me it was coming from the diff.

        Living in the Blue Mountains, I approached Ausrover in Bathurst but they no longer do this repair.

        My mechanic said he was not prepared to attempt it, Annlyn Motors in Penrith quoted me nearly $7k for a new unit plus fitting saying that the diff could not be pulled apart.

        I parked it and bought a 3 year old XC60 instead.

        Now the good news.

        I found Hornsby Differential and Gearbox and gave them a ring. They knew all about this problem and fix many Volvos.

        Quoted me $2750 drive in/drive out.

        The car was with him for 24 hours and fixed with new pinion bearings (front and rear) plus the whole kit.

        Whisper quiet and a pleasure to drive again.

        Now I have two Volvo wagons.