[solved] Noisy diff - failed front pinion bearing

diecast · 2019-10-28T10:28:22+00:00

Good result,a rebuild at indie Volvo shop isn't cheap either.Shows how essential oil changes are.....

Joel

This thread has all the info you could ever need if attempting to rebuild the diff as a DIY

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic29814.html

I'm still trying to decide whether I should rebuild my diff or put in a used one. After reading the above thread I feel confident I could do it but its just a matter of finding the time.

Joel

Since I am off work for probably a long time I have decided to attempt to rebuild the rear diff myself. I have ordered all the parts required and they should be here in a week or so, some are coming from the UK.

I will update with progress later.

diecast

Good stuff. I get the feeling that many people (still employed and working from home) will take the opportunity to fix things, do home Reno’s etc

Joel

Even though I'm still waiting on parts I made a start on the car today. It took me 2 hours to get one side ready to drop the rear subframe which is not too bad without a hoist. This includes getting it up on stands and pumping oil out of the rear diff.

I can't do the other side yet as I'm waiting on a tool to pop the passenger side drive shaft which is recessed inside the diff, it should only take me 30 minutes to do the other side as I know what I'm doing now.

https://flic.kr/p/2iLusKR

I spent a fair amount of time thinking about how to tackle this, the design of the rear subframe on the XC60 makes removing the diff impossible without dropping the frame. The only guides I have seen are for the XC90 which allows you to lower the subframe slightly and lift the diff out over the top.

My plan is to leave the trailing arms in position on both sides, this way I can leave the brakes, ABS wiring and handbrake alone.

Photo below is where I got to today, you can see the trailing arm is easily pushed to the side allowing removal of the drive shaft and lowering of the rear subframe.

https://flic.kr/p/2iLut6F

Joel

Can't share photos on this forum using BBcode?

Philia_Bear

Joel
Can't share photos on this forum using BBcode?

bbcode is dead

Joel

The tool to remove the passenger side drive shaft arrived today so I resumed work on the car. I got the other side apart in about 15 minutes and then had to undo the main prop shaft and cradle around the fuel filter plus a couple of electrical connectors.

I have not been able to remove the main prop shaft from the nose of the diff, seems a common problem, any tips appreciated.

Finally I just decided to lower the suibframe and see if that would help but no it didn't. I've pumped it with WD40 to soak overnight and we will see how I go tomorrow.

The rear subframe is down.

timbo

Those prop shaft c.vs are annoying!

You've gotta be careful with those uni joints as they can come apart of you're not careful.

In pretty sure there are a couple of extra holes in the diff flange side that you can put a punch through and carefully tap the joint to get it moving. Be aware that you are tapping on a thin metal flange that seals the grease so don't use anything pointy/sharp you need a nice flat punch and be gentle.

Joel

Thanks, the holes at the back of the diff flange are in the worst possible position ever! no way a punch can get in there unless I start disassembling parts of the haldex system in-situ or spin it somehow and even then I'm not sure if access will be much better.

Joel

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I ended up giving up on removing the prop shaft cv and just put a big oil change pan under the nose of the diff and unbolted the whole haldex assembly under the car. I spent way too much time wrestling with the prop shaft and this seemed like the easiest solution and it worked.

With the subframe out I easily removed the diff and got it on the work bench. Disassembly was easy and I got the main pinion seal out too by screwing a screw in it and then some multi-grips and a vice plus mallet, see photo.

The pinion removal tool I imported from the UK fits perfect too, just need to grab a 3/4" to 1/2" adapter socket when the shops open again and I can remove the pinion and take a look at the failed bearing.

Joel

Made a jig to hold the diff still while I undo the pinion nut.

Jig was not strong enough ?

Try again tomorrow

Joel

Re-made my jig with much thicker steel today.

and success!

Everything out

and much to my relief I do indeed have a failed front pinion bearing. Would have been rather embarrassed if I found nothing wrong.

You can see the heavy pitting.

New bearing next to old bearing

The kit I bought came with a new OEM bearing but I bought another one as the Timken brand has better specs compared to OEM SKF, NTN and FAG, plus they only cost $24

This is all info from the Freelander forum linked above by myself.

Ex850R

Good work!

diecast

Awesome stuff, you have done a great job. Glad i didn't try to DIY myself

Joel

Thanks, its not back together yet though.

I have been waiting on some parts for weeks now so I can finish and they were only coming from VIC. The stuff I ordered from the UK only took about 7 days. I'm sure its due to the Rona.

I will update once reassembly begins.

ramrod

How much would you charge if you had to do the job again for someone?

Joel

ramrod
How much would you charge if you had to do the job again for someone?

I don't have any plans to rebuild differentials for other people but I would be willing to lease out my pinion tool to those who want to rebuild their own, would just require a refundable deposit to ensure I get the tool back.

Best to send me a private message.

jamesinc

Thanks for detailing everything - I've updated the thread title to help people find it from search engines as I'm sure it'll help others.

Joel

I am still waiting for those parts to finish this job but I have lodged a lost claim with Australia Post now because its almost been 4 weeks since they were posted by the supplier.

Today I managed to get the Haldex system off the CV joint by sliding a punch through the back and tapping it off. Since I was able to rotate the Haldex system it gave me enough access to get the punch in and it came off pretty easy.

Up on the bench I replaced the Haldex filter, all the oil is out anyway so now is the best time to service it. Mine is a Gen 3 or 4 unit and the Volvo part number for the filter kit is 31325173 but they share part numbers with Ford Kuga from 2009 - 2014 search part numbers Ford Kuga AWD for Haldex 9V4N4A319AA 1673828 8U7J8708687AA Oil and Filter Kit and you will pay much less for the same thing. Cost me $121 AUD for both filter kit and oil including delivery.

I wanted to service the pump too as per this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZNC06Z7imQ&t=274s

but my car has a larger CV flange and I was not able to remove it unless I removed the CV flange too.

Also decided to service the front angle gear while the car is up on stands. This job is a serious PITA and if I had my time again I would not bother. Simply remove the magnetic fill plug, give it a clean and top up the fluid.

The oil was not dirty at all and my car has almost 200k kms on it, stupid Volvo not putting drain plugs on their differentials makes these simple jobs so hard to do. The hose size I needed to fit in there and suck the oil out was the size of a drinking straw and as you can imagine it took forever, as did refilling it, I got that stinky diff oil all over the place. oh well its done now.

iceton1975

we also rebuild on site same day rebuild your unit and install all our parts are from the local Volvo dealer they do a kit just under $300 for parts

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