Option to get it rebuilt? If Angus knows someone or Mark has a tech who does it outside of work.
You then get one as you like it.
B20 with verified compression, TAS or VIC.
Or he could perhaps rebuild his original engine
I have around 8. But none of them are as new rebuilt I am afraid. I am currently building two b20s, they're worth doing in my experience to achieve longevity.
Angus, I might be interested in the 8bolt for my 74 145. Coming over with the ute in a few weeks. I will have a look at my existing 8 bolt this weekend.
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1971_144GLI have around 8. But none of them are as new rebuilt I am afraid. I am currently building two b20s, they're worth doing in my experience to achieve longevity.
Angus, I might be interested in the 8bolt for my 74 145. Coming over with the ute in a few weeks. I will have a look at my existing 8 bolt this weekend.
Are any of them verified running, with good compression? Have any of them been checked?
Are they available?
None have run for five years now and I have no compression figures. They are in Melbourne. I wouldn't sell any as a confirmed runner at this stage.
I plan to fit one shortly to a 145 to get it to Tassie, then refit the correct 8 bolt engine. At that stage I will have a better idea of condition. I'm not sure on timing.
1971_144GLNone have run for five years now and I have no compression figures. They are in Melbourne. I wouldn't sell any as a confirmed runner at this stage.
I plan to fit one shortly to a 145 to get it to Tassie, then refit the correct 8 bolt engine. At that stage I will have a better idea of condition. I'm not sure on timing.
Thanks for the clarification.
I will see if I can get some pics of the 8 bolt one in the crate this weekend. I have four B20's in total and all are in unknown condition, one was last driven over ten years ago and the others I never saw running.
They are all at least 45 years old now and not many people rebuild engines and then don't end up using them, so I don't think the chances of finding one that's ready to go without at least a hone, rings and bearings are very high.
Thanks Angus.
There are folk out there with abandoned projects, cars taken off the road for other reasons.
If only a hone, rings and bearings were required, that’s fine. An engine requiring a full rebuild isn’t.
A compression test is the first step. The result a broad indicator of condition. A subsequent leak down test more definitive.
The testing procedure is not expensive or difficult. The result would be of benefit to both buyer and potential seller.
To travel from southern Tasmania to the mainland for an engine in lesser, unknown condition is not viable or sensible.
In that time you could treat your own engine to a hone and new rings+bearings+gaskets
If planning to dismantle a car that's in running condition those tests can be done, but none of my 4 came to me that way.
With the head off the bores can be measured easily enough to work out whether a hone is all that's needed, or a rebore.
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ramrodIn that time you could treat your own engine to a hone and new rings+bearings+gaskets
My engine needs more that that. And I don't live in the city.
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Angus242164If planning to dismantle a car that's in running condition those tests can be done, but none of my 4 came to me that way.
With the head off the bores can be measured easily enough to work out whether a hone is all that's needed, or a rebore.
It's more than a hone and the valves needs doing. Compression and leak down test showed that....
apart from it running on three cylinders ?
Starter motor, a battery and jumper leads is all that's required for compression test or a leak down test. Cold engine not ideal but leaves little doubt about the general condition for the conditions tested.
She's been sitting around for some time, at least a few decades!
Any engine that's been sitting around for a long time, I'd start by honing and replacing the bearings, and then compression check it.
FWIW, last time I overbored an engine the machine shop bill was somewhere around $700. Parts and final assembly were all supplied by yours truly on top of that amount.
If anyone in Sydney has one I am happy to lend my dial bore gauge so you can measure bores against factory specs.
Sydney is out of the range for me. Melbourne, country VIC or Tasmania is my limit.
I'm not asking anyone to pull an engine down, hone, assemble and compression test.
That's beyond the realm of most.
If someone has an engine, that is from a project, done up. That's a go! I'm prepared to pay accordingly.
An engine which has been sitting undercover, or in a car, (provided it was stored reasonably)
and turns over will give an indication. A compression test takes a short time.
An engine which hasn't been run in a long time, more than a few years, without being stored properly
is unlikely to be in the condition I'm seeking. Not impossible, just unlikely.
I'm not looking to take a punt, or a guess. Unless what you're offering is gratis, or close to it.
Please, if you have an engine available that fits the criteria or may do, phone, text message or post here.
Yes, I'll pay for it, pick up quickly if the sight of it is irking you. I have a limited time window.
Thanks.
Thank you for that picture Angus. I am going to go with the engine that I have. However I will pass on your information to another interested party. When I store my engines I flood them with corrosion inhibitor oil, plug all the ports and use spray wax on exterior machined surfaces. But sorry Richo, all my engines not assigned to projects would just be a gamble by now. I do have exactly what you want, but it is matching numbers with a dismantled 64 p1800 that is a down the track project. You must have run into some bad luck for your engine to be beyond repair. Sorry to hear it.
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Beyond economical repair. Beyond my budget to repair in the manner reconditioning deserves.
The crank is stuffed, it hasn't been fitted to the block properly, the mains likely require line boring, it's a disaster.
There's a lot more, like the metric bolts jammed into the block to bellhousing holes, the coarse thread that's been tapped into the crank at the flywheel...not even straight. I could go on but its tearful.
Aspects of the block have been butchered in the hands of others. not impossible to repair, but costly and time consuming. Reconditioning this block economically, not likely.
The cylinder head is very average, not worthy of extensive, expensive repair. I have a spare head which is in the hands of an engine reconditioner for measuring, inspection and report.
The block original to the car is long gone. As for the real condition of this engine, given what I've found so far, it's probably unworthy of the expense of measurement. ?
I NEED an engine! B20B out of 140 is fine, perfect. Probably the most common.
Long shot, but a machinist who I got to machine my head a year ago mentioned he had an old pushrod Volvo engine sitting out the back. I don't know any specifics, didn't even go and look at the engine, but if you're desperate give him a call, and if it sounds promising I can take a look at it as he's just around the corner from me.
Headworks Pty ltd.
408 Neerim Rd, Carnegie VIC 3163
03 9568 5226 (Basil)
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Thanks Sam, I've phoned him and it's a single overhead cam engine, not a B20.
Thanks for offering to take a look.