'Vivian' 1979 242GT

Paul_Roodenrys · 2018-11-15T11:07:33+00:00

Good luck with the build. I'm glad that you are going to use a Volvo motor in Vivian. While I can marvel at the abilities of people to put all sorts of m...

volvodriverman

I'm not absolutely certain so please correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the clutch fork with the open end & the spring clip was specific to the m47?

VolvoHordz

Could be the case from what I have seen. Open and closed end forks are interchangeable in any case

Paul_Roodenrys

Mine is an M46 to the best of my knowledge. 4 speed with overdrive button. I wish I could upload a photo but the technology has me beat again. The clutch fork is open ended with a clip to hold it to the pivot ball.

Paul_Roodenrys

Finally got the gearbox in and up tight, I replaced the gearbox mount with an updated IPD unit, it took me a lot longer to get everything in as I found it hard to get myself in the right position to lift the gearbox. It really is a job for two people, or at least a bigger gorilla than me.

A job coming up is installing the radiator and intercooler, I have the 740 plastic brackets but they won't fit without modification by reshaping them. I'm wondering if there is a trick to using them before I attempt to modify them.

Any suggestions on how to fit the radiator and intercooler?

carnut222

When you say “740 plastic brackets” what exactly are you referring to? The 740s had rubber-encapsulated lower supports that sit in the lower crossmember. I think you can cut the lower tab off and they should sit in the 240 crossmember. The upper radiator/IC brackets are metal and have a rubber insert. The 740 metal bits can be modified to fit on the 240 upper crossmember...IIRC they need to be spaced up higher at the attachment bolt location. Use the same mounting holes as the 240 upper rad brackets. You can also make custom upper brackets by joining the front part of a 240 bracket to the rear part of a 740T bracket...cut, splice and weld together. Unfortunately the 240 intercooler upper brackets are pricey now on the used market but they fit nicer! :)

carnut222

I found this pic showing where somebody took the non-turbo 240 upper bracket (left) and the 740T bracket (middle) and came up with a hybrid (right). Looks a bit agricultural but maybe it works?

The ones below are the original 240 turbo brackets and rubber supports upper/lower.

Paul_Roodenrys

Hello Greg, I'm referring to the brackets you are talking about, they felt rubbery to me. It looks like they can be modified easily enough as you mention, I didn't want to jump in and start chopping if there was a better solution. I'll have a closer look and see what I need. Thankyou.

Paul_Roodenrys

Progress continues, I've got the radiator and intercooler in place, I needed to modify one bracket as I couldn't get the hood to shut, I've got no idea why only one bracket wouldn't sit low enough. I guess something must be bent that shouldn't be. Most of the pipes and hoses for the radiator and intercooler can be reused but the big rubber pipe from the airfilter to the turbo has a split in it at the hole the tube to the oil catch can joins it. A replacement pipe is $170 so I'm thinking of using an aftermarket airfilter and pipe. I need to be able to attach the MAF as well of course. Any suggestions would be welcome. I'm still unable to load pictures but the B230ft, intercooler and piping look like it belongs there. I'm happy so far with the job.

I've purchased a Haltech Elite 550 with harness and fuse box with some sensors. Need to save for the exhaust, fuel pump and some other bits and pieces.

Paul_Roodenrys

It's been months since I posted and I'm amazed (and a bit embarrassed) about how I can spend so much time in the shed looking at my car and so much time when I'm not in the shed but thinking about my car and yet still make such little progress. I've also finally worked out how to upload photos again. The top photo shows how I routed the oil lines using hoses from Pirtek. My local store is very helpful though the hoses weren't cheap and I would explore other options if I did it again. I'm also a bit worried about the hoses coming into contact with the exhaust so will need to make sure they are securely placed away from heat sources. I purchased a new high volume pump from Rocket Industries only to discover I'd used the wrong code. Even though according to their return policy I was way past the allowable time to return, one phone call was all it took for the correct part to be on its way and they refunded the money for the returned part the day they got it back. They also sent out two thick catalogues with much drool worthy gear in them. The correct part, which included a new sock, line and clamps was even cheaper than the returned part.

Changing the fuel pump led to the float falling off ( of course) so I removed the tank. A quick inspection showed the need for a clean out and a friend recommended JPS Coatings. They are an Australian company and offer top notch service. I rang to order some and got the owner of the company who offered some terrific tips. The kit cost $120, I ordered it on a Friday and it arrived on Sunday. Keen courier I guess. The kit includes industrial strength cleaner, rust remover and a solution that coats the inside of the tank. Really good stuff. I was concerned I hadn't prepared the tank well enough so I rang again and received more friendly advice. The most difficult part of the job was putting a couple of kilos of nuts and bolts in the tank and shaking it for what felt like hours. I highly recommend JPS Coatings.

My next big challenge is installing the Haltech system. I purchased the set up from the factory in Sydney's west and was very impressed with the service and advice there as well. I also purchased Coolant Temp and Air Intake Sensors from Haltech and a TPS from EFI. I've fitted the TPS and am in the process of installing the other senses.

One thing I am not sure about is whether I will need an ignition control box as well. I've almost got everything I need to make her run again with my next big purchase being the exhaust system.

Roinik

For ignition you can go down the road of a Mitsubishi 4G63 CAS/TDCS from the '88-'91/2 Galant twin cam. They're a bit of a challenge to source, but are available. Yoshifab does an adaptor to fit to the redblock. That way you can use whatever flywheel you like.

Paul_Roodenrys

Thanks Ian, I've changed the auxiliary shaft and fitted an LH2.2 distributor. If I understand it correctly that will provide the crank signal I need for the Haltech. I had thought that was all I needed but I've read about also needing an ignition control box such as an MSD unit or a Haltech unit. This is all new to me so it's a real learning experience. My previous experience with engine swaps was with a VW beetle in the late '70s. Long time between projects.

Paul_Roodenrys

In my last post I made a mistake with the name of the company that makes the tank restorer. It is KBS Coatings. Below is a photo of the inside of the tank after curing. It is as hard as the hobs of hell and while mine has a little bit of puddling I don't think it will make any difference. Very pleased with the result.

Paul_Roodenrys

The Coolant Temp Sensor I bought from Haltech does not fit into the place the Volvo sensor went. The idea is to drill and tap the Volvo sensor and fit the Haltech sensor inside. My good friends Matt and Eric said bring it up here and we'll do it for you, you'll bugger it up. It's a 3 hour or more return trip so I thought I'd have a go myself. Sadly they were right so I am now looking for a replacement sensor. Doesn't need to work. If you have one lying around please let me know. ?

carnut222

Looking good Paul. I know what you mean about progress! :) I have a used LH2.4 coolant temp sensor I could post to you if you haven’t found one yet.

With respect to the photo of the inside of the petrol tank, is that a “cup” where the fuel pick-up sits or what are we looking at? My only comment would be if that is a cup, then fuel needs to get in there somehow...I presume it enters from above if the tank level is above the top of the cup, or from a small hole in the bottom of the cup when the tank level is below the top of the cup. So, what I’m trying to say is if I’m looking at it correctly, you’ll need to be certain the lower fuel entry point isn’t blocked by the tank sealant. It sorta looks like it might be (I circled what I think might be the issue in the pic), but hard to tell from the pic and I’m not certain how it’s meant to work as I haven’t pulled the top off a 240 tank recently. Just something to double check before you install the tank. :)

VolvoHordz

Greg, your understanding is right. The fuel gets into the 'cup' via that hole so it needs to be kept clear.

Ive got red-kote to coat a tank when i have time. It will be interesting to see how the finish compares.

Paul_Roodenrys

Thanks Greg, it is a large cup that the fuel pump sits in. I was worried that the hole in the bottom would become clogged as you mention. I was very careful to rotate the tank during curing so it wouldn't pool and I'm reasonably confident it will be ok. The coating is fairly thick though so it is possible flow could be effected. I'll test it before refitting to see how freely the fuel flows through. You will hear my howls of frustration in space if it doesn't as correcting it will be a challenge as the coating is very hard. Using the product is very easy but I did find that no matter how many times I turned the tank I still had some pooling as you can see in the pic.

Thanks for the offer of the temp gauge, I bought an adapter from rocket industries which does the job as Samman and Timbo suggested. I don't know why I didn't think of it myself. I'll be interested to see how the red-kote goes as well VolvoHordz.

Paul_Roodenrys

I've checked the small hole in the bottom of the tank and liquid flows freely in so the tank sealer while pooling in a few spots and showing some dried excess flows hasn't blocked the small hole at the bottom of the cup. I must say I'm mightily relieved. I've also tested the adaptor I bought for the Haltech coolant temp sensor and it does the job the way it is meant too.

I purchased a second adaptor for the Intake Air temp sensor. I thought I might place that in the intake pipe from the intercooler just before it goes into the intake manifold. The pipe is only thin so I thought that I could drill a hole and then use an epoxy like JB Weld to hold the adapter and screw the sensor into the adaptor. That way I've only buggered up the adapter. I'd be interested in any suggestions for a better location or a better way to fix the sensor.

I've also assembled the new fuel pump. It is a Aeroflow 340lph pump. It will replace both the intank pump and the underbody pump. I've been advised that it will be more than up for the task though I might need to upgrade my fuel pressure regulator and maybe injectors. ATM I'm just aiming to get it to run though.

Paul_Roodenrys

B230ft motor looks like it belongs in the 242. Slow but pleasing progress.

Paul_Roodenrys

I've got the fuel tank back in but I'm not happy with the way the filler pipe centred in the car body so a bit more fiddling is required. A mechanic friend of mines advice is that mechanics is easy, it either works or it doesn't. So if it doesn't work right keep fiddling until it does.

My bigger challenge at the moment is installing the Haltech 550 ecu. The Haltech set up needs a crank signal supplied by the Hall sensor dizzy and a cam signal. I've been told that the cam signal also comes from the dizzy and Carnut has written previously on this thread that the LH2 dizzy provides all the information needed but I'm not sure if that applies to the Haltech setup or the LH2 set up only. I'd really appreciate any guidance at all from anyone who has experience with this sort of stuff.

I've got the new harness in the car and I am slowly working my way through where each wire or bundle of wires go, it doesn't seem too difficult but as a complete novice I plan to double and triple check every thing before I do it. I'll post some pictures later today.

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