How do you run an IACV to atmosphere? Does that mean you're running a MAP sensor?
Vert B230FT into Volvo 240
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Nice work. A tidy up always makes it feel smoother and faster! Ha! Loving this project. Having the stock blower on my wifes car is certainly fun for leaving people at the lights in an stock looking volvo. Cant imaging how AMG drivers are going to feel!
Do you plan on running a guard on the timing belt? Risky business. Im sure U know that!
@jamesinc yeah just speed density tuning it with map, iat and tps sensors.
Cheers @Cam205 , hoping that this turbo is drivable on the street with the auto! I have the cover that I'll put on at some stage, just need to holesaw some clearance for the thicker cam gear and it keeps falling to the bottom of the list :p
8 days later
Cranked the engine for the first time a few days ago. Got oil pressure quickly (had run up the pump with a drill before the timing belt went on), and began configuring the sensors and outputs in Tunerstudio. Continued after work yesterday loading base maps. Everything works as expected bar the crank hall effect sensor that is being rather difficult. If I can get a decent pattern then it'll start right up, just thinking on whether the issue is electrical (my wiring/shielding) mechanical (air-gap/flexplate tooth size) or software (Tunerstudio settings) and what to change first.
Update: fixed the crank hall effect sensor signal. Turns out I had in all my wisdom wired the fused 12v for the sensor to an accessory relay that was grounded by the fuel pump output on the uS. Obviously the uS will only ground the fuel pump relay when it has rpm as a safety measure, but it can't get rpm if the sensor is powered by a relay switched by the fuel pump outlet. Perfect signal now, just have to set base timing then I'll start her up!
9 days later
As of last week the car runs and drives! I struggled with rich afrs initially which was stressful as I didn't want to wash down the bores. Then realised that my req_fuel constant was a fair bit too large and that it was creating a low resolution in the VE table - as fueling is given by req_fuel X VE table X enrichments. So a large req_fuel will need a small VE value to reach the requisite afr target. Long story short, I had this value too large.
The car will be on the Dyno next week to get a run in and tune. I'm really interested to see how the curve will look, and what power it decides to make.
It is somewhat frustrating to not be able to let the engine eat for fear of munching the gearbox. I keep looking at stronger gearbox options but realising that it will cost 2k minimum and that would be better spent on making the 2j car happen.
9 days later
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Yesterday, a year to the day after I decided to do this, the car went on the dyno. Fresh plugs went in, spent some time running in the engine at various loads then changed the oil and did some pulls. First run at half throttle saw 22psi at 4000rpm and climbing. Freaked out a bit and removed the actuator all together which limited it to 8psi, ran it like that for a bit then swapped in a 12psi actuator. That's what's in it at the moment, making good power and really enjoying how the car drives - it's rapid. The turbo is pretty well mannered with the auto, spools well when you want power but at low throttle it's not even there. Also ridiculously loud on spool up and dose! We set the rev limit at 6200 for the sake of the auto but it really wants to rev out even with the K cam 6 degrees advanced - torque is peaking near redline.
From here on I have a list of little things to fix up, I'll change the oil again to the last 5 litres of running in oil and drive a few thousand Kms. Then it will be time for synthetic oil, and a couple more hours on the dyno upping the boost a bit to the mid 20s.
Dyno operator was great - he's a mate of a mate of mine and did an awesome job with the tune, had spare parts and stuck at it, doing our last runs at 11:30pm.
Thanks for reading - I'll put up some videos at some stage, and update the thread in a month or two when the final dyno is done.
3 months later
https://youtu.be/kWoKZPiaAdg
Apologies for the video quality - YouTube
I have been unsuccessful in resisting the temptation to do more work on this shitbox.
Samman88As of last week the car runs and drives! I struggled with rich afrs initially which was stressful as I didn't want to wash down the bores. Then realised that my req_fuel constant was a fair bit too large and that it was creating a low resolution in the VE table - as fueling is given by req_fuel X VE table X enrichments. So a large req_fuel will need a small VE value to reach the requisite afr target. Long story short, I had this value too large.
The car will be on the Dyno next week to get a run in and tune. I'm really interested to see how the curve will look, and what power it decides to make.
It is somewhat frustrating to not be able to let the engine eat for fear of munching the gearbox. I keep looking at stronger gearbox options but realising that it will cost 2k minimum and that would be better spent on making the 2j car happen.
The 'shimmed' AW71 in my car is still fine, but I'm heading back to the Dyno now that the engine is run in to turn it up a bit.
Whilst the auto is great for keeping the big turbo spinning, it limits the rev ceiling to 6200rpm - where the K cam is still making more torque. Ideally we'd rev another 1500rpm or so to sort of see what goes on up there.
So it looks like a manual gearbox is on the cards. Planning for more than 300kw at the treads which rules out ye olde T5 and every stock Volvo gearbox. I don't really want to invest a lot more into this set up as it just takes funds away from the ...other... project, so I will try and do this quite cheaply.
Luckily I have the spare engine that was originally in the car still, so I'll mock the whole assembly up on that.
11 days later
What about swapping in a 4l60e? They aren't the strongest auto stock but they worked well in heavy Holdens and HSVs with torquey V8s
4L65E would be a better choice of GM transmission. My 5.7 VT SS has had two 4L60Es fail - one failed when the car was two years old and was replaced under warranty, the second failed when the stupid "oil cooler" copper rod in the radiator did a coolant / transmission fluid interchange, so that really doesn't count.
However, the first one failed without any having towed or being subjected to hard driving.
The 65 is the same sized case, but uses tougher guts and is rated for about 20 ft lb more than the 60.
I'm not against swapping in a stronger auto to be honest. My only issue with it is that I don't/haven't taken the time to understand auto gearboxes very well and so I'd likely be paying someone or buying a built manualised box with things like clutches, line pressure/valve body mods, and a high stall. All of which with an adaptor really adds up unfortunately.
Currently keen on AW71 Bell to GM MA5 gearbox adaptor with a Focus RS (MK3) OEM 240mm clutch on a Volvo dished flywheel machined down to 8.35mm step. If the press. plate PCD is small enough to fit that is. I think that this is the cheapest way I can have a driveline that will hold the power.
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Kenny on turbobricks has a manual turbo 400 in his 740 running 10s
The 4L60E is a good choice if you want to upgrade it, you can get a variety of performance valve bodies and clutch packs for them
a month later
I agree that if I was going to stay auto, 4L60 variety would be the way forward. But whilst they're an economical box to get a hold of I can't justify the cost of an adaptor kit and the requisite mods to make it last.
I have done a bit more research and have decided that a flat flywheel with a heavy duty 240mm Mazda RX-8 clutch of all things will likely be my best option, rather than machining down a dished flywheel so much. The clutch is from Xtreme and is rated to 670nm. I need to send off the adaptor to get it CNC machined this week.
7 days later
4l60e doesn't get upgraded valve bodies as such, but you need at least $500 in parts to make one last above stock V8 torque plus the cost of the torque converter adaptor and gearbox adaptor that is available. And a custom built converter because a V8 doesn't respond the same on the low torque motor.
I can say the car goes pretty well for a low boost tune!
5 months later
Oil pressure dropped by about a bar all of a sudden. Fortunately it still had pressure so no damage was done, just less than normal. Stopped driving it for a while and finally got around to inspecting the engine. That explains it. Apparently the transfer tube o ring is quite a common problem when using a non genuine Volvo (Elring) gasket kit.
Bugger! The engine I'm putting together for my 245, I put 2x O-rings on there because it didn't feel too solid with one. I hope it holds! :)
I thought elring was the genuine supplier of seals
The Elring seals are identical from B18 to B230. The OEM seals look more like a lip seal without the spring and looks as though it uses oil pressure to help seal against the shaft and socket.
There is also a Penta 'O' ring for the oil pump, part number 829714.
BTW... If you do decide to ditch the AW71, please let me know. That adapter ring will easily find a new home here.
Do you still have the drawings for the AW71 adapter ring?