So a bit of an update, I've gotten Kimberley to run again, kind of.
I reinstalled the intake manifold (new gasket), injectors, air metering box, fuel distributor, airbox and all of the lines.
The fuel distributor (0 438 100 074) appears to work well (many thanks to
@jamesinc) and I have swapped it onto my air metering box (0 438 120 077) as the B23E one (0 438 120 076) has hose and PCV valve of some description on it, also there is only one mount on the rear rather than two.
After giving it a good clean, I primed it by connecting just the fuel feed line and ran the fuel pump for a bit, with a bucket under it. Here's how it looks, same as before pretty much:
So I got it started, and it ran for about 15 minutes while I was getting it down off the jack stands, then I managed to drive it to the end of the driveway where it conked out. I then jump started it again, reversed up the driveway and drove back down the driveway twice, when I went to take off down the road it conked out again.
I dunno if it's a coincidence but both times it conked out were almost precisely when I put my indicator on. Also it's been raining pretty hard all night, so I dunno if that's related.
Then when I tried to jump start it a third time, no bueno. I even ran the Swift it was connected to for about 10 minutes with the throttle at about 1/3 to charge the battery. Cranked really solidly and nothing.
My next thought was, maybe it has overheated? I did pull the coolant temp sensor out of the head as I thought I would need to put the new manifold gasket around it, but then realised what it was when coolant came out, and cut that section of the gasket off as it wasn't needed - I think the port is used for something different on B230s. I also figured that wouldn't be the issue as it I have a belt driven fan and i've never overheated before.
Then I thought maybe it isn't getting fuel? I pulled out my trusty cable with two female spades on it and connected them to fuses 5 and 7. It started straight away with the fuel pump forced on, and I managed to drive it up and down the driveway 5 or so times with no problems. I then tried turning it off and back on, and it fires straight up while the pump is forced on.
I then tried without it forced on and had no luck, even tried swapping the fuel pump relay to a different one. Original is a 1 235 337 and spare is a 3 523 639 from the '79 264. both have pins labelled 30, 15, 87b, 31b, 31, 87. A few weird things did happen while the pumps were forced on, one is that the cluster was completely unresponsive, second is that the AMP light turns on as soon as the car is driven with the pumps forced on. Not started, but
driven. Weird as.
I don't want to have to connect that cable every time I want to drive my car, especially because I don't want to drive it without a working cluster. Do you guys have any ideas what might be causing this issue? Are both of my fuel pumps likely stuffed? I didn't test the one out of the 264 so I have no idea if that actually works, but is it possible i've fried my original one and that's what's causing the problem? I'm glad it runs without leaks at least, so i'm definitely getting closer. I really appreciate any advice you guys can throw my way, as usual. =)