He already has a late 240... A 92' model.
240 sound deadening
So he's off to a good start then? Assuming that, aside from his firewall, his underlays are not falling apart.
- Edited
Yeah it's a very late one, October 92.
So with that in mind... do I keep the old foam underlay there and add something else on top/underneath it?
Also just for clarification, is the tar and the dynamat the same stuff? Or are you referring to some kind of paint?
Spac - as my car was originally an auto, I didn't have that foam that goes under the gear shift boot, but I stuffed a piece of foam from a seat in there which made a difference. But it's still not as effective as whatever the auto gear selector had (the car was quieter as an auto).
(Bottom line is I'm now slightly confused as for what to put where.)
Sorry if this post looks weird, there seems to be something happening with the formatting@jamesinc
So with that in mind... do I keep the old foam underlay there and add something else on top/underneath it?
Also just for clarification, is the tar and the dynamat the same stuff? Or are you referring to some kind of paint?
Spac - as my car was originally an auto, I didn't have that foam that goes under the gear shift boot, but I stuffed a piece of foam from a seat in there which made a difference. But it's still not as effective as whatever the auto gear selector had (the car was quieter as an auto).
(Bottom line is I'm now slightly confused as for what to put where.)
Sorry if this post looks weird, there seems to be something happening with the formatting
I'm referring to Dynamat, though I think Les was talking about paint on tar. Dynamat is essentially tar or butyl bonded to a layer of aluminium foil to keep it all together.
I am saying tar matt and mean stuff like dynamat yes.
I spent 4 hours removing mine?
Sticky innit!robv;91184 wroteI spent 4 hours removing mine?
I Tar or pond seal paint where I can't use the dynamat style stuff.
Body deadening paint on the cheap!
I am also using double liners, one from spares car (its a v70) could work, worth a try...
Body deadening paint on the cheap!
I am also using double liners, one from spares car (its a v70) could work, worth a try...
I must say that @spac has hit the nail on the head. In the sedan, the majority of the noise you'll be getting comes up through the shifter hole. Mine has the foam block in place, but while I was tinkering over the last few weeks, I was running without the rubber shifter boot for a couple of days. The cabin noise is about 5x increased, so I can only imagine with a non-ideal foam block, it will be immense. Fix that, and fit the rubber shifter boot down tight, get the leather cover from a GLE and it will make a huuuuuuuge difference.
Seat foam is open cell, to make it squishy and comfortable, and as a result transmits sound quite well. Soundproofing foam is closed cell, to make it soundproof, but conversely is much less pliant and elastic. The two are terrible at each others' purposes.
Seat foam is open cell, to make it squishy and comfortable, and as a result transmits sound quite well. Soundproofing foam is closed cell, to make it soundproof, but conversely is much less pliant and elastic. The two are terrible at each others' purposes.
@lasercowboy - thanks for that explanation. I do realise that a lot of noise can come from there, as I ran my car without the rubber boot secured down for a couple of weeks (after the manual conversion) - and noticed a huge difference once I sorted it out. However, I didn't realise those differences between the seat foam and the soundproofing foam, so I will look into this.
Do you think I'll need to track down the proper foam part, or is soundproofing foam available to buy by itself?
Thanks to others for the tips, but I'm still slightly confused as to whether I should be keeping my existing foam and adding more insulation on top, or ripping it up and replacing it with dynamat (or keeping it and adding dynamat too)?
Do you think I'll need to track down the proper foam part, or is soundproofing foam available to buy by itself?
Thanks to others for the tips, but I'm still slightly confused as to whether I should be keeping my existing foam and adding more insulation on top, or ripping it up and replacing it with dynamat (or keeping it and adding dynamat too)?
- Edited
Foam is, in general, pretty rubbish at 'soundproofing' (though it is good at minimising reflected/echoed sound).
Hence the stuff under the carpets is not foam, it's fibrey matting or tar. The tar is a bit viscoelastic so it simply acts as a damper for vibrations on metal panels (that are purely elastic at the typical frequencies of vibration we're worried about here). Hence the tar stuff dissipates the energy in a different way, arresting the vibration of the panel. This is a way to stop sound being generated by the panels themselves (and to some extent stops the panels propogating external noise).
Hence the stuff under the carpets is not foam, it's fibrey matting or tar. The tar is a bit viscoelastic so it simply acts as a damper for vibrations on metal panels (that are purely elastic at the typical frequencies of vibration we're worried about here). Hence the tar stuff dissipates the energy in a different way, arresting the vibration of the panel. This is a way to stop sound being generated by the panels themselves (and to some extent stops the panels propogating external noise).
[Apologies for the wall of text; cannot figure out how to make paragraphs be respected today!!]
Thanks for that Rico!
And yes I seem to be having trouble with paragraphs too!
And yes I seem to be having trouble with paragraphs too!
- Edited
So a temporary solution:
{list}
{\list}
~
{list}
{\list}
Where the curly bracket should be square brackets - gives you a para break with a tilde in it...
{list}
{\list}
~
{list}
{\list}
Where the curly bracket should be square brackets - gives you a para break with a tilde in it...
For the record. you do not need to buy dynamat branded sound deadener other brands are just as good at half the price.
To fit it, you will need to remove everything.
To fit it, you will need to remove everything.
@Vee-Que yep I'm well aware of that, was just calling it dynamat for convenience.
"remove everything" - what does that include? I assume seats, carpets and underlay, but can I get away with leaving the dash in?
Just to clarify though. Because I have a late 240 can I get away with not adding insulation matting as well?
"remove everything" - what does that include? I assume seats, carpets and underlay, but can I get away with leaving the dash in?
Just to clarify though. Because I have a late 240 can I get away with not adding insulation matting as well?
I would go the whole hog myself, pull dash, insulate, do the heater core when there and refit it all.
Unsure on the other late 240 stuff on floors.
Unsure on the other late 240 stuff on floors.
Dash as well!
What does the foam under the shifter boot look like? My 245 doesn't have one and it's quite noisy up through there.