1977 244DL "Amy"

jamesinc · 2013-07-24T00:16:02+00:00

Love the bug-bomb holder you have there, James :)

jamesinc

Noticed this, the clutch fork was about to crack! I have a spare luckily, it's the other style that completely surrounds the input shaft.

Also replaced the bulkhead for the heater hoses with an STS Machining stainless one, been meaning to do that for ages.

Still waiting on fittings for the fuel lines.

jamesinc

I think I have an easy solution for the clutch, rumour has it that the Saab 900 Turbo 215mm pressure plate (Sachs SC436) is a bolt-in replacement with more clamping force than the original PP so I've ordered that from FCP and claimed an Oz Volvo shipping discount while I was at it 🙂 https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/saab-clutch-pressure-plate-sachs-8728123I will report back how it goes but it sounds promising.

Spac

Definitely interested.

This is for the flat flywheel?

jamesinc

@Spac yup flat flywheel. Here's before and after on my flywheel as I don't think I've posted it in this thread.

jamesinc

Okay parts finally arrived! I wish Sparesbox just let you pick up, normally I'd take the cheap shipping over the 45-minute drive to Ingleburn, but with all the delays at the moment I feel like picking stuff up just helps everyone out.

Anyway, I have the clamps as well as the missing fittings, so I think everything I need to have a red hot go at bending up the hardlines.

The nylon hose is a replacement for the fuel tank vent line. I still haven't quite worked out how I'm going to plumb the charcoal canister, as my carb doesn't have fittings for it, unlike later CD175s that do have charcoal canister fittings.

Still, as far as I can tell, all you need to run the purge circuit is a vac reference before and after the throttle plate. I know in the TBs that have the ports, you can see they are drilled very close to the butterfly valve, I'm not sure if they're exploiting a Venturi effect or if they're trying to only purge the canister under very specific conditions but I dunno I don't have those ports and I do want to run the canister so I'll see what I can figure out.

pieboyfresh

I was just looking at a '75 240 on the weekend which has a later CD175 swapped into it.

I could be wrong, but think they just didn't have a charcoal canister - the second vac port has just been capped off, which prompted me to look for it but I couldn't find one anywhere.

jamesinc

So what they just plumb the vent line straight into the intake or something?

pieboyfresh

I think there's just the one - this photo is of a '75 B21A with the correct version CD175 which only has one for vacuum advance

Maybe the tank just vents to atmosphere?

jamesinc

I started fabbing the fuel lines tonight, I got the supply line done from the fuel filter to the firewall, I need to still do a couple bends to have it come up the firewall and then connect to the FPR. The fuel filter is just hanging free at the moment, I'll drill the mounting holes for it next. The location in the photo is a bit off as it's not fixed in place.

First time I've really bent up pipes, it wasn't too hard, but I did sacrifice a few offcut pieces to test out some of my bends before doing the real line. The biggest thing is it's super easy to get turned around in your head, I nearly bent the pipes the wrong way once or twice. I expect the return line will be a bit easier because I'll be able to use the supply line as a point of reference.

Ex850R

A trick to this is get a tig filler wire or brazing wire and bend it to look like the full size tube spool you will be making to go in the car, then you can't go wrong making the full size version!

jamesinc

Made more progress on the car over the weekend

I still need to do the fittings at the tank end but it's nearly ready for a system test.

jamesinc

So, solved my turbo clutch problem. This is a Saab 900 Turbo 215mm pressure plate, it is a direct fit to the Volvo flat flywheel.

The only difference is the overall height to the top of the fingers is about 8mm less. I used trig to work out I need to shim the pivot pin about 5.3mm forwards to have the clutch slave pin sitting in the same spot as it does now. I think if I don't do that the slave piston will get over-extended and leak.

The only issue is the thread behind the pivot pin isn't very long and with an extra 5mm of washers there's not enough thread engagement.

The parts diagrams show it as a bolt screwed in from behind. If that's true, how annoying!

volvodriverman

jamesinc
https://cdn.ozvolvo.org/uploads/803RLNWPD1Q1/pxl-20211210-054450203.jpg
So, solved my turbo clutch problem. This is a Saab 900 Turbo 215mm pressure plate, it is a direct fit to the Volvo flat flywheel.
The only difference is the overall height to the top of the fingers is about 8mm less. I used trig to work out I need to shim the pivot pin about 5.3mm forwards to have the clutch slave pin sitting in the same spot as it does now. I think if I don't do that the slave piston will get over-extended and leak.
The only issue is the thread behind the pivot pin isn't very long and with an extra 5mm of washers there's not enough thread engagement.
The parts diagrams show it as a bolt screwed in from behind. If that's true, how annoying!

It's a captive nut in the back of the bellhousing which the threaded rod can be unwound from, double nut it & it should come out easily enough.

VolvoHordz

Yup double nut should do the trick.

jamesinc

Thanks lads I will give it a go tomorrow! That's good news

Philia_Bear

jamesinc
Thanks lads I will give it a go tomorrow! That's good news

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g8IVI0sZ6F8

jamesinc

I still need to make a wiring harness for the new engine and I have today worked out how I want it all to go together, and I finally understand why there is a ballast resistor on the coil positive. When cranking, the starter feeds +12V via the brown wire, which meets the coil positive lead at one end of the resistor. The other end of the resistor sees +12V from the ignition switch. So, when cranking, the coil receives 12V, but during normal running that 12V goes through the ballast and drops down to about 9V. This is apparently to improve longevity of the ignition system but give a strong spark for easy starting. When I converted to a 123ignition, I deleted this whole circuit. I'm using a Bosch blue coil, and the coil sees 12V at all times while running.

In 1977 K-Jet Volvos the fuel pump safety cutout function is achieved by having a switch on the air inlet flap that closes when the air flap is closed, i.e. no airflow. In the new setup I don't have that flap but I do want to have a safety cutout for the fuel pumps.

I also don't want to modify the factory wiring harnesses as that is engineering bankruptcy.

I'm going to convert the car to use the green 6-pin K-Jet relay, which uses the tach signal as an input. I can do this without making any permanent modifications to the harness by just de-pinning the existing relay connectors and re-pinning them into the 6-pin connector housing. That way if for whatever reason I decide to revert the car to K-Jet (which I might do if I find the turbo carb setup too annoying to live with) I can reverse my changes.

K-Jet fuel pump relay wiring diagram

I'm going to see how I go without a pump prime circuit. If I need one I can add a simple timer relay that bypasses the K-Jet relay.

I'm also going to use one of the currently unused pins on the 8-pin firewall/engine harness connector for my A/C idle solenoid, this is just so I can hide that wiring in the engine loom and have it look tidy.

Finally, I decided to ditch the original alternator + external voltage regulator setup, it worked fine but I wanted to declutter and also free up space where the voltage regulator was mounted to fit the new air box. So I ordered a Bosch AL157X which is a remanned 80A alternator with built-in voltage regulator.

jamesinc

New fuel system buttoned up, got delayed by the holidays and stock delays on a couple last fittings. She holds pressure and the new lines don't leak anywhere!

jamesinc

I've been removing the Dynamat from the firewall. If you ever wondered how Dynamat would go with engine bay heat cycles, let me tell you after 8 years it unfortunately sticks as well as when it was new.

I'll need to repaint as I've scraped the paint in a few places, even if I was keeping the Dynamat I would have redone it as the original was made up from offcuts I had after doing the cabin.

I also replaced the passenger side steering rack boot. You know, universal fit rack boots would be a great product if they weren't all absolute garbage quality. I haven't had any luck getting boots that fit based on part numbers, so I just measured the rack housing at 33mm and found a suitable boot on the Repco website, for those playing at home it's Kelpro SRB-049.

Otherwise, I'm expecting the alternator and wiring harness cables to arrive this week and I'll order the pipe for the oil cooler. I am trying to have this thing running by the end of Feb, who knows if that's realistic but I can dream!

Clive740

Wow, this thread is so long that I had to skip a few pages here and there to get through it.

A very impressive build to date. I’m generally drawn to original historic cars, but I have great admiration for modified cars that manage to retain an old school look and feel to them. Nice job so far.

I hope to see this beauty in the flesh sometime in the future.

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