jamesinc;101270 wrote With "you know what" happening next week I've already exhausted car parts budget for the next couple months.
tease.
New driveshafts are in. Turns out the thing that was making it hard to get a full lock in the steering was a binding CV joint. It turns way sharper now!



Yum



YUCK. Looks like it's time for a transmission flush.




Thank you to @nickm for lending me a 36mm socket and to @Forg for swinging by with a 1/2" drive torque wrench when I realised, too late, that I needed a 1/2" torque wrench because the 36mm socket was 1/2".

Also on the driver's side the nut on the end of the spline shaft in the hub was a 10/10 bastard to remove. The threads had rusted really badly, it took about 3 minutes with the compressor rattle gun at full power to wind it off, and it was very difficult to the last turn. I thought maybe it had been cross-threaded, but it didn't look to have been. Just rusty threads.
jamesinc;101309 wroteThank you to @nickm for lending me a 36mm socket and to @Forg for swinging by with a 1/2" drive torque wrench when I realised, too late, that I needed a 1/2" torque wrench because the 36mm socket was 1/2".

Also on the driver's side the nut on the end of the spline shaft in the hub was a 10/10 bastard to remove. The threads had rusted really badly, it took about 3 minutes with the compressor rattle gun at full power to wind it off, and it was very difficult to the last turn. I thought maybe it had been cross-threaded, but it didn't look to have been. Just rusty threads.
I had both tools bro
They're both closer. I mean I just swung by Nick's on my way home from work yesterday. And I can't exactly drive to Blacktown with an untorqued driveshaft.
jamesinc;101312 wroteThey're both closer. I mean I just swung by Nick's on my way home from work yesterday. And I can't exactly drive to Blacktown with an untorqued driveshaft.
I would have totally come to you
And raided your fridge for pork buns
None in my fridge unfortunately
jamesinc;101270 wrote
AshDVS;101268 wrote
jamesinc;101108 wroteForum says they are fiddly? The big one on the engine side. OEM bushing -> OEM bushing.
Easy as. Might be more fiddly on an LHD car??
There's an updated one available for the firewall side, which is just a better design and will have a longer service life.
That one didn't fail inspection, so it can stay. With "you know what" happening next week I've already exhausted car parts budget for the next couple months.
Ah, the big bush that the bracket on the engine fastens to?
If you get stuck, we have SuperPro ones in stock.
wire brush and penetrating fluid helps keep the thread rescue man at bay.
Please arrive tomorrow. It's really hit and miss with overnight processing at the airport.


Sorry I just can find that bit.
7 days later
Fixed the bushing last night



Today I took it back to get the issues cleared, and the mechanic had gone on holiday for two weeks. Thanks for telling me last week when you said "bring it back any time in the next two weeks, don't need a booking". Thanks asshole

Sat through an hour of traffic to take it to my guy in Chatswood, all done now.
jamesinc;101309 wroteThank you to @nickm for lending me a 36mm socket and to @Forg for swinging by with a 1/2" drive torque wrench when I realised, too late, that I needed a 1/2" torque wrench because the 36mm socket was 1/2".

Also on the driver's side the nut on the end of the spline shaft in the hub was a 10/10 bastard to remove. The threads had rusted really badly, it took about 3 minutes with the compressor rattle gun at full power to wind it off, and it was very difficult to the last turn. I thought maybe it had been cross-threaded, but it didn't look to have been. Just rusty threads.
You need a better rattle gun then.. My cordless milkwaukee makes mince meat of things like that. Are they meant to be torqued!? Rattle tight works well..
Vee_Que;102175 wrote
jamesinc;101309 wroteThank you to @nickm for lending me a 36mm socket and to @Forg for swinging by with a 1/2" drive torque wrench when I realised, too late, that I needed a 1/2" torque wrench because the 36mm socket was 1/2".

Also on the driver's side the nut on the end of the spline shaft in the hub was a 10/10 bastard to remove. The threads had rusted really badly, it took about 3 minutes with the compressor rattle gun at full power to wind it off, and it was very difficult to the last turn. I thought maybe it had been cross-threaded, but it didn't look to have been. Just rusty threads.
You need a better rattle gun then.. My cordless milkwaukee makes mince meat of things like that. Are they meant to be torqued!? Rattle tight works well..
They're torqued to 89 ft. lbs + 60 degrees. It wasn't cracking it that was difficult - that was fine - it's that the maybe 20mm of thread it had to wind out was rusted to shit. Water must have been getting stuck behind the centre cap for years or something.
Even after starting it turning with the rattle gun, I wasn't budging it standing on a 1/2" breaker, which would generate at least 400 ft. lbs of force, so suffice to say it was stuck AF.
Penetrine brand oil is the best breaker outside of oxy to heat and break it although at Alcoa on maintenance we would use Penetrine AND get the oxy onto some problem shafts and threads... Some serious big stuff, but I Ahh, the good old days.
I can only find Penetrine in spray cans now not the old yellow bottle which was always in our kit bags.
14 days later
Finally time to do the brakes!


+1 on using something like rost off plus or Wd40 or loctite brand freeze and release. Moves the rust nicely.
report back on the improvement?
© 2013-2025 Oz Volvo. All rights reserved. | Forum Rules | Privacy Policy