Slowbrick
Oh yeh keep the CPS plugged in or you wont get anything.
nickm
One of these will make your life easier.
You can probe along the pins of the ecu injectors etc.
You can see sensor pulse, check for grounds and + volts. In this instance easier than using a multi meter.
I'm sure you have the volvo pin out . It can nearly act like an oscilloscope.
jamesinc
I got a logic probe from jaycar. It's mad! It can even show me voltage on the HT leads by induction.
Anyway, Brendan and I went over everything tonight. We found the adjustable cam gear had its indexing pin hole 2.5 degrees ahead of the OE gear's pin hole.
We tried other injectors etc but couldn't get anything going. We compression tested and it read as low as 80psi. This is where it gets interesting. Turns out there was a fucking tsunami of fuel in the bore, which had washed the bore clean of oil and lowered compression significantly. So we put on the OE gear, dried out the bore and put some oil in it to bring compression back up.
At this point the battery got tired of cranking and we had to call it. Very unsatisfying result. Will pick it up tomorrow night.
Slowbrick
Did you unplug everything?
jamesinc
Nah we didn't get that far into debugging lol, we got caught up in timing and then trying to work out which cylinder wasn't firing. Once the battery is charged up and I get the bores cleaned out I'll try it.
nickm
1: Engine speed signal input, pulsed, 0.75V - ignition, 5.5-6.0V @cranking, =>7.5V @idle or higher rpm
2: TPS signal input 0.2 - Idle speed, 4 - Full load
3: TPS signal secondary input 1.0 - Idling, 10 - Full load
4: Power supply +30 input 12
5: Signal Ground 0.0 - Separate from power ground
6: Mass air flow 0.0 - Separate from power ground
7: Mass air flow input 2.0V @Idling, 5.0V @Full Load
8: Mass air flow, burn-off Output 4.0 - At burn-off, 0 -otherwise
9: Power supply from main input 12
10: Low-speed pressure sensor, engine cooling fan
11: A/C Time-delay Relay, High-speed pressure sensor, engine cooling fan
12: Diagnostics lead I/O
13: Temp Sensor input 4V @-20C, 2.3V @+20C, 1.1V @+40C, 0.7V @+60C, 0.4V @+87C
14: A/C, ACC load Signal input 12-Auto, 0-ECON
15: Climate Unit, some others Jumper for cold start 0-no cold start, 12 cold start
16: Diagnostics Lead I/O
17: Chassis Ground
18: Injectors control signal Output 7.1Hz, 2.4-4.5ms
19: EGR Valve Output 12 - inactivated, <12 active
20: Fuel Pump relay signal 1-activ, 12-Ign on
21: Main relay operating circuit Output 1 - Ignition on, 12 - Ignition off
22: Check Engine Light Output 12-off, 1-on
23: EGR Temp Sensor input 4.5 -EGR closed, <4.5 -Open
24: Oxygen Sensor input 0.6 - 1.0 - Rich, 0.0 - 0.4 - Lean
25: Load Signal Tq EZK/DI Output Freq incr with throttle opening
26: Shift-Up light Output 12 - Not activated,0 - Activated
27: EVAP Canister purge valve Output 12 - Open, 1 - Closed
28: Knock enrichment (not B204FT), ~0.7V - ignition, ~7.5V @idle (stable), ground @knock
* Turbo+ Knock enrichment, trigger
* (B204FT/GT TCU) EGT sensor, trigger
29: Codification input 12 - Automatic transmission
30: Raising engine idle speed input 12-R,D,1,2,3, 0 - P,N, and manual
31: Consumption signal to EDU Output Freq incr with throttle opening
32: Cold start valve Output Battery voltage - Not activated
33: IAC valve Output 5-11 - Idling, no load
34: Speed Sensor input 6 -Rotating, 0 or 12 - Stationary
35: Power Supply +15 input 12-Ign on
jamesinc
So further update on last night. We've definitively ruled out spark or ignition timing at this point. The cam gear was off by two teeth, however that's unlikely meaningful as at the end of Sunday night I just chucked the belt back on as I was packing up, with little regard for proper alignment, so I figured it would be out.
It's hard to tell if overfuelling is going on. The injectors aren't leaking and otherwise seem fine, and all four are firing.
@nickm I assume the best way to test for the values you're put above is to unplug sensors and test at the plug? I'm not sure otherwise how I test some of those sensor output pins
@VolvoHordz anything I've missed?
Slowbrick
Unplug everything. Seriously.
That video i linked earlier was with nothing plugged in but the CPS and the belt was one tooth off. Think computer troubleshooting 101. Unplug everything but the CPU and the RAM and add more until it fucks up.
jamesinc
I will. As I said, we didn't get that far! We got caught up in timing, and then Nina made apple and rhubarb crumble and we had to stop.
jamesinc
Here's my best attempt at capturing the flooding on video
It's important to note that after cranking with injectors disconnected and throttle open, after cranking for like 20 seconds the engine started
idling. Just from the fuel in the bore.
nickm
Okay see what is happening at pin 18. Easiest way is to probe along the back of the ecu.
is it pulsing or constantly grounding?
Is your temp sensor reporting the correct voltage? pin13
jamesinc
What do you mean along the back of the ECU? Do you mean remove the case from the ECU and probe the connector pins from the circuit board side? Sorry if this seems like a silly question.
nickm
the connector has a cover you can remove and poke the probe pin in there.
One other thing is that the injectors work opposite to how you would think.
They are supplied with constant 12v from the relay and the ecu grounds them to open.
jamesinc
I would think that, if I didn't know how the injectors worked :P
I didn't realise you could remove the connector cover, that's awesome.
nickm
I was going to say ... I hope I'm not telling you something you already know
jamesinc
Okay I had to stop. The engine has been so flooded it has thinned out the oil. I'm going to have to flush it out. In the meantime I swapped back to the T cam to rule that out.
nickm
Something is kooking out your ECU.
Slowbricks PC fix approach of pulling all and replacing one by one. Could work.
Or work through the pins it is a 20 min job.
jamesinc
Sure, but I'm not going to even fire up the ECU again until the engine is free of fuel and crappy oil.
Slowbrick
nickm;71618 wroteSomething is kooking out your ECU.
Slowbricks PC fix approach of pulling all and replacing one by one. Could work.
Or work through the pins it is a 20 min job.
I suggested that because that is how I first ran my swap. I started it with the bare essentials to make it run and then added things with each start to make sure they were working correctly. I of course didnt have a probe tool.
nickm
Your approach is valid. If a little more time consuming as the wiring is unknown.
