@Vee_Que well I think all the issues I experienced originally can be traced back to faulty injector driver output on the ECU, and in fairness it was a pretty subtle fault. There's no way I would have been able to positively I.D. the issue without a full-blown oscilloscope (eventually the injector circuit stuck in closed position at which point the problem became obvious). I mean if it hadn't been for that ECU issue the car would have been running as soon as I had fixed the switched+crank power feed issue. Instead I ended up spending a lot of time trying to chase down possible component faults and causing the oil to thin out and so on. The whole process was plagued by poor/unexpected experimental controls forcing me to continually start over, and finally by additional issues with the AMM that, because the computer was crapping out, weren't obvious (i.e. unplugging the AMM had no noticeable effect, because the engine was already struggling to do anything).
The one benefit that came out of it though was that it forced me to really carefully go over the entire motor, from air filter to exhaust, and in the process I found many minor issues that I had previously overlooked (like the fact the turbo compressor housing had an extra threaded fitting in it that was leaking air!)
As Ryan said, the correct way to wire the 240 was a bit less obvious than in the 740.
I actually bought one of these DIY oscilloscopes from eBay, the Jyetech DSO138, which seems pretty cool. Once I put it together I might test the crank trigger.
If anyone is interested, it's
$34 on eBay, or there's another one nearly the same price pre-assembled. I'm not sure I trust an assembly process that cost $1, and the kit is supposed to be open-source, and I like soldering PCBs, so I'm going to make it myself. Once I have it going I'll post a review as I think it may be a useful tool for people who want to mess with their ECUs.