Four or so years ago I bought my Wife a 1973 350SLC as an anniversary prezzie and spent another thou or so on doing the usual repairs to get the Coupe on the road so she could enjoy it.

For those who dont understand the old Merc Model nomenclature 350SLC is a 3.5 lt V8 Hard top coupe chassis type C107, the smaller V8 has a square bore/stroke and revs much harder than the bigger Benz Lumps and although to the untrained eye it looks like the Convertible SL with a roof its actually longer and a 2+2 config, nicely balanced and actually a lot of fun.

I bought the car knowing it would in a few years need bodywork and these cars are bad for firewall rust etc plus the thing had a quicky car yard paint job with oodles of spraybog but as it still was structurally ok (Checked thoroughly with a bore scope) I did the brakes, steering box, some auto elec, front end and suspension and got her on the road after snaffling a set of alloy Bundt wheels to replace the awful AMG Hammer knockoff mags.

3 years later she started to age and I parked her up with a few D jet issues until a few weeks ago when I dragged her out of the shed aand started work on the body.

D jet injection is basically early EFI using Manifold pressure (Vacuum) as the air fuel meter, an electronic injector for cold starts with a Mechanical Aux Air valve to keep the mixture right with the extra fuel on cold starts.

The injector pulse is from sensors mounted under the Dizzy and temp sensors determine the cold start cycle which runs until 62 centigrade making for a nice simple EFI system with no polution control as such,

Vac advance and retard controls Ignition timing and as per usual with this era Benz theres bloody Vac lines everywhere including feeds for the central locking, Boot and occasionally Fuel filler as well as the seat back unlock on the Coupes and as the car is 43 ish now the hard lines and diaphrams leak Vac which throws the engine way off.

EFI computer is a basic analogue thing behind the LH kick panel and they age over time and suffer from dry solder joints which although simple to fix take a bit of time to reflow all the sus solder.

Oh and the A/F mix is also adjusted from the EFI box.

That said the Aux Air Valve has again got niggly which is a simple matter of a quick refurb with carby and brake cleaner and sometimes a bit of a crimp on the oil reservoir which when heated closes the air valve richening up the AF mix when the cold start injector shuts off.

The car is a driver, not a trailer queen so the body work will be repaired properly, painted adequately and driven to enjoy.

Piccies.
Starting with when I first got her.









Had a bit of work to do............



Both headlights were blown and water was getting in so a quick rebuild was in order, BTW you have to pull the lights right out to change the H4s so a rebuild was no biggie and a $23 genuine kit with clips and seals.





Nicked a set of Wheels off my 450SEL to get her roadworthy and they stayed on the car as she drove much nicer with the original mags





Cockpit view

The list of stuff to do could be written on a dunny roll with no dash lights (Common issue) I bought a new Rheostat and refurbed the guage cluster, easy to remove but a PITA to refit coz speedo cable.

All the engine bay hoses were replaced with new OEM ones and known good parts from my stash and the AAV was refurbished at the same time I replaced all the sensors and assorted electrickery bits, Pulled the Injector sensor and cleaned it when I overhauled the dizzy,

So now apart from an exhaust leak she was good to go!



Subscribed, I love these old Mercs. Vacuum-operated everything!
A curse and a challenge is the Vac system, If you own an old 116 or 107 Merc you must have a good Vac test kit and pump.
I also jerry rigged an electric Vac pump from a W124 for testing and when I figure it out i'll probably use it to operate all the non engine related items.

Thing is, pain in the arse that they are when you get it working properly its a bloody good system.
egads;69775 wroteLove the colour!
Its a Ford colour, the actual plate colour is Silver Green which is paler but im going to test spray Thistle Green which is close but with a bit more silver in it.

The paint is a definite 20 foot job at the moment.

This is what the SLC's were really good at, then again with massive factory backing they were very hard to beat including choppering in whole sub assemblies etc



And having had a few good fangs on dirt and clay in this old girl I can attest to their chuckability and good form on the loose stuff even in street form.

This is a more recent pic after a quick tub

I like it a lot!
Your in depth descriptions are ace too.
L
Ta Les,

A pet hate of mine is posts that skimp over details and leave stuff out.

The car was a bargain at under 4k but it had been through a few owners that had NFI when it came to Benz's and as I used to create a lot of Paid "How To" Content I learned to keep it interesting even though the stuff I write here is unedited and waffles on a bit but with piccies (And you can never have too many piccies) it keeps your focus.

Either way we all love cars and most of us will have seen these and thought Id like one but probably cant justify the price equating their value with the SL roadsters which are 3 to 5 times the money and IMO a less useful/usable classic.
The missus always says she wants a Benz from this era , a wagon maybe and considering she hates wagons!
Yes , percieved complexity and the fact that I drove a 280 from Warrnambool to Geelong to see Bob Sell for a top end rattle and was so bored with the drive , I never really took it further. BTW , Bob is/was a brilliant mech , only worked on Euro as he said everything else is too boring! He sorted that head out , car was sold to a girl who took it to supposed expert in Warrnambool who said the head needed a rebuild......stupid people...
Yeah we see a lot of that, When I had the shop set up at my old place it wasnt unusual to get 2 or 3 weekend drop in visitors armed with mechanic horror stories seeking help or advice.

Air control valves being the usual culprit followed by setting a base tune to undo the fiddling people did to bandaid the fault instead of fixing it.

Air/Fuel on D jet is controlled by this,(Manifold pressure sensor) it can be refurbed and adjusted DIY or professionally done by Bosch for $400 to 500.



This is a K jet AAV (Aux air valve) and its thermo couple activated by oil in the brass bulb which is immersed in the intake manifold water jacket. (Same for D jet but with different angles on the hose)
These suckers usually gunk up and stick open, can be cleaned out with soak and air blast over a few hours and the bulb at the bottom squished/crimped a bit if they close too late at temps above 62.



WUR or Warm up reg which controls K jet cold start jet metering and fuel pressure, usually not a refurb item unless you are keen but they can also unlock performance on K jet cars through higher fuel pressure etc (Google DKUBUS)


AAV refurb pics I did for a forum, Really simple fixes that take time, patience and a few cans of both Carby and Brake cleaner as well as petro degreasers inna can.







Had fun with this one and it shows how bloody stupid people can be, Microwave the water to get it to 100, Dunk the AAV after cleaning and she should snap shut yeah?
The AAV acts as a heat sink and very quickly brings the water tempt down and the AAV temp up which lead to complaints of burnt pinkies (Duh) but I clearly show the old AAV hose still attached as a handle.

Then the hillarious case where a guy discovered the delights of Huffing brake kleen fumes by sucking on the recently cleaned now 70 degree AAV to see if it was closed (They are never fully closed by design) and copped a lungfull of solvent.

A $7 meat thermo, a Pyrex jug, half a brain and some hot hot water was all you needed for testing so its simple and efficient.
egads;69775 wroteLove the colour!
This is Thistle Green BTW shown on Jeff Kennetts old 450SEL 6.9

Ex850R;69784 wroteMmmm , 6.9....
Oddly owning one of these generally ends up in your being screwed and walking funny....

Unless you are my mate Geoffrey.....

Geoff had 3 1000 CFM throttle bodies milled up and fitted one to his 6.9.

Loud is best

a month later
D jetronic as the older Volvo owners will know is a very simple full electronic Injection system.

Air/Fuel is controlled by the MPS or Manifold pressure sensor which actually reads manifold vacuum and is remote mounted and fed by a vac hose.

The Throttle body has a TPS telling the ECU know the throttle position.

Injector timing is fed by a horse shoe shaped sensor mounted in the bottom of the distributor.

Fuel is delivered and fired by electronic injectors.

Simple and beautiful.

Cold starting is a bit more complicated and this is more often than not where problems arise.

Simply there is a cold start injector triggered by a temp sensor, under 62 Celsius the system come on, air fuel mix to cope with the added rich fuel mix is controlled by an AAV or Aux air valve which on early cars is a mechanical item set into the water jacket with an oil filled bulb immersed into the coolant, the oil expands when hot so in its cold state the valve is open and when heated the oil expands and gradually shuts off the air flow (Not quite closed off BTW).

The cold start injector activated by a thermo switch and the Aux Air valve activated by a mechanical valve often dont see eye to eye and the AAV is the weak point here as it will clag up with carbon or rubber dust and sometimes oil fumes or tar.

There is also an Air bleed screw for fine cold and hot run adjustments and has a big slotted head and this is often tweaked to compensate for failures elsewhere, my advice is DONT tweak it as it causes other issues and symptoms.

D jetronic was replaced in most cars in the mid 70's when the whole anti smog crap started and this was where K jet and then KE jet/LH etc came in with EGR and Lambda.

D jet is referred to as Dirty D jet which is a misnomer because a maintained D jet system isn't worse emissions wise than any other early system but its ability to black smoke or over fuel meant that it was headed for the chopping block, weirdly to be replaced with an electro mechanical constant injection system (K jet).

D jet EFI has been around for over 50 years, its a great system used in many many Euro cars (VW, Porche, Volvo etc) as well as a licensed version to Lucas used by Jaguar on their Early injected V12's.
So! I've been working on this old girl on and off the last week and i've come to the conclusion that I need to get all my shit in one place and sort it out.
1973 Electronic fuel injected (Bosch D Jetronic) Benz obviously not designed for repair without tiny monkeyhands or loooong nose pliers I had one job to do which was replace the Vac hose between the Intake manifold and the Air Fuel module (Yes it calcs the A/F on Intake Vac)...
I have 3 long handle/long nose pliers (In a box in storage) soooo this simple task took an hour, much skin and Im pretty sure my Neighbours now think im Demoniacally possessed or have Tourettes as my swearing got more erratic and louder lol
Job finally done the thing now runs ok-ish so on to the next problem.
Im actually looking forwards to a Boring 450SE K jet car next where everything is accessible.