Klaptrap24 200th comment...after nearly a year and a half of having A T5z in my garage, today I pulled out the auto, marking the beginning of a huge learning experience. Huge thanks to boss hog @jamesinc for much needed guidance as I stumbled through this. Excuse the non-chronological image order Used half a bar of soap in the shower to get the trans fluid off. I also discovered that breaker bars are godsends. Will keep you all posted as this continues.
Klaptrap24 Auto pedals and pedal box out; manual pedal box, pedals and clutch master cylinder in. What a pain in the ass it was. My 240 didn't come with pre-drilled bolts for the clutch master so had to drill some myself. Was missing the pin for the clutch pedal to clutch cylinder so improvised with a proper 'safety pin'. @Vee_Que how and why do I have to mark where the flex plate sat? Do I need to use it with the manual flywheel?
carnut222 Vee_Que;127248 wroteYou need to use the same blanking holes otherwise the car won't start. I think what he's trying to say is the new flywheel needs to be oriented correctly relative to the crankshaft so that the "missing" drilled holes for the crank sensor are in the right place. There's info out there about how to do this, but make sure you do before you bolt the flywheel in place. Sorry I don't have the procedure in front of me at the moment but I'm sure somebody will know or Google it.
Major Ledfoot .Klaptrap24;127237 wroteWas missing the pin for the clutch pedal to clutch cylinder so improvised with a proper 'safety pin'. [img]https://i.imgur.com/me2GazC.jpg[img] Clever way to use a bonnet pin! However, I don't believe you'd want to leave it that way. A small bolt with a nyloc nut, a few matching washers, and a steel tubular tube/bush will make for a nicer installation that won't upset rego inspectors or the like, and make for a fitting that's not going to bind or break.
timbo Lh2.4? You need to have the blank part of the flywheel aligned with the starter motor hole when the engine is at tdc and dizzy is pointing at no1 cyl
Klaptrap24 Not too much done today; got the flywheel mounted and torqued up, my $50 hurricane headers mounted , e fan mounted and wiring begun, cut some metal out of the bellhousing for #lh2.4, and started putting together the t5
Klaptrap24 Clutch and flywheel installed after locating a pilot bearing that fit (clutch kit and lightened flywheel supplied by @Vee_Que many thanks) E-fan wired up completely (haven't tested yet) Installed the T5 and have it completely bolted up, with the crossmember (also supplied by Alex). Will get more comprehensive pics tomorrow. Please feel free to throw advice and suggestions because I am still quite new to this all and am bound to make mistakes.
Klaptrap24 Update; clutch slave is in, modified tailshaft is in, and shifter is also in. All that is left now is fluids, wiring, and the clutch master to slave line. Hoping to get it driving by the end of the week.
Canoe Klaptrap24;126755 wroteMerry Christmas to me, BC Racing coilovers are in, strut brace in. Removed the fender liner for more clearance; camber is maxed for #stance. Took a bit of tuning but it doesn't rub at full lock or during driving (at least at low speeds). Chances are that I'll raise it a cm or two more in the coming weeks, the front rate is 7kg, rear is 6kg. First impressions: this shit rides way better than my cut springs and blown shocks. It's firm (especially in the rear) but even with the small amount of suspension travel, it still dampens bumps very nicely. Having the 30 clicks of hard-soft adjustment is great, though I found that in the rears, anything less than nearly full hard would result in a lot of bounce. The fronts are a lot more responsive to the adjustments. Bye bye body roll. Hello lip scraping everywhere. I will do a full write up in a few weeks when I have more time with it. Also got my DVS strut brace, thanks Ash. Excuse the dirty wheels and ruined fenders. Pics: Also installed new vented slotted rotors. Had to cut the dust shields into much smaller pieces because with the LCA spacers (geometry correction bro) the dust shield wouldn't fit. What the hell kind of tyres did you use, to damage the guards, to make them flair like that??!!! :-)
Canoe Vee_Que;127248 wroteYou need to use the same blanking holes otherwise the car won't start. Bl**dy "blanking" car!!
Klaptrap24 @Canoe I pulled the guards out with a vice grip, wheels and tyres are 205/70r14 14x8 -10 offset. Solution to the ruined guards; interior rubber glued/riveted on
Canoe Klaptrap24;127997 wrote@Canoe I pulled the guards out with a vice grip, wheels and tyres are 205/70r14 14x8 -10 offset. Solution to the ruined guards; interior rubber glued/riveted on Bro, i was being cheeky. :-) No offence intended at all. The guards are NOT ruined! Too much coffee. :-) Looking at that further, if you continue that rubber and make it wider, so its right up against the moulded bend in the guard, you would add a 20 mm black extension "flair". How wide is the bent out section? Im not sure how to describe it
Klaptrap24 All good mate, it's about 20mm wider than the standard guards however because the flare comes out quite low (compared to if I would have cut the bent out section off), for tyres to clear I need to have quite a bit of camber
ljk346 Klaptrap24;128000 wroteAll good mate, it's about 20mm wider than the standard guards however because the flare comes out quite low (compared to if I would have cut the bent out section off), for tyres to clear I need to have quite a bit of camber So would you recommend this technique for flaring fenders?
Klaptrap24 ljk346;128542 wroteKlaptrap24;128000 wroteAll good mate, it's about 20mm wider than the standard guards however because the flare comes out quite low (compared to if I would have cut the bent out section off), for tyres to clear I need to have quite a bit of camber So would you recommend this technique for flaring fenders? Nope, just roll the lip in as opposed to out; I think you'd get more clearance that way (but less flare)
Raebird Klaptrap24;128553 wroteljk346;128542 wroteKlaptrap24;128000 wroteAll good mate, it's about 20mm wider than the standard guards however because the flare comes out quite low (compared to if I would have cut the bent out section off), for tyres to clear I need to have quite a bit of camber So would you recommend this technique for flaring fenders? Nope, just roll the lip in as opposed to out; I think you'd get more clearance that way (but less flare) I think rolling them in on the rear is quite hard, cutting might be a better option?
