B230F LH 2.2 no run after cam swap

GreenGL · 2025-11-20T07:20:33+00:00

I've attempted a DIY cam swap in my 240 with a B230F motor. Not starting post assembly, I did pull the timing cover off to double check cam timing lines up...

GreenGL

I've confirmed the piston TDC matches with crank gear and pulley TDC marks.

Car still won't run unfortunately. I've double checked spark is present. I've even tried starter fluid in the throttle body, still nothing.

Probably worth mentioning the camshaft swap was from M to VX3. I assumed VX3 would be setup the same as M, being both are factory Volvo cams.

Anthony

Okay, so now one asks about the background to the actual cam itself. (Comment - Rare to see a VX3 from the factory as most are VX).

Is it say an ipd issue?

Anyway, its a frustrating situation as nearly everything is positioned correctly and you seem very knowledgeable.

With everything lined up for TDC, I would be removing the valve cover, and wind BACK the crank (anticlockwise) a bit, the clockwise to check the #1 inlet valve is opening well before piston reaches TDC.

If all good, its time to look elsewhere.

Major Ledfoot

A B23(0) distributor rotates clockwise. So your plug leads should be ordered 1 / 3 / 4 / 2.

OTOH, a B18 or B20 dizzy rotates anticlockwise. This catches people all the time.

jamesinc

Maybe the locating dowel has sheared from the front of the cam and the cam is out of time? If it's all at TDC, just peer in through the oil cap and see if cam lobes #1 and #2 are pointing up and away from the engine.

Does the car make normal compression sounds when you crank it?

carnut222

Is it getting spark? You tried starting fluid…so it seems like if it were getting spark it would at least run or backfire. Have you pulled the spark plugs to have a look at them? Are they wet with fuel, or dry? Just a couple things to check. Frustrating no doubt!

GreenGL

Here's a pic of the #1 cam lobes with the cam gear a few teeth off TDC.

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Spark is present if I pull a lead and put a plug in ,earthing it to a strut tower nut.

Plugs did have a faint smell of fuel (to me, havyfever nose is a thing) when I pulled them.

Compression gauge says we have compression too, around 120psi on the cylinders.

Certainly is frustrating, I'd love to have the car up and running with the upgraded cam!

jamesinc

120psi is pretty low, not doesn't-run low though.

The cam looks like it is maybe 30 degrees before TDC in the photo.

Other thoughts -

Did you clearance the cam after swapping it?
Did you connect the ground strap between the valve cover and the firewall?

GreenGL

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There's the camshaft with everything else at TDC.

The head to firewall ground strap is bolted up.

I did not check the shim/valve gaps. I didn't think it could possibly create a no start condition, at least not for factory cam swaps

Anthony

A back to square one question, was the engine running well before the cam swap?

Also could you take an overhead pic of distrib cap showing leads going to plugs. (Just for my sanity).

I don’t think y have shared your location in this big country.

GreenGL

Anthony

Yes car was running well prior to swapping cams

Is this what you're looking for?
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A previous owner or mechanic has numbered the leads so I'm very confident I havent mucked up the order.

I'm in Melbourne, VIC.

jamesinc

Will do once I've gotten more charge into the battery.

jamesinc

The cam orientation looks correct in the photo above.

I agree shims are unlikely, but I am trying to think through everything that gets disturbed by a cam swap.

Seeing as you're getting spark and have been trying to start it for a while, it may be that the only issue is that the engine is flooded. Disconnect the fuel injectors and crank for 20+ seconds and see if it starts trying to run. If it does, just let it run until it stops by itself. I've had this happen multiple times working on B230s so it is worth ruling it out.

jamesinc

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Anthony

More of an overview pic holding camera high so we can see which direction the leads are going to spark plug wise. Don’t need plugs just dizzy and most of the leads.

Cant be too careful at this stage of the investigation.

Next step, have an assistant turn motor over just a little, while you have a hand on the fuel pump to feel for a buzz.

GreenGL

Anthony

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I also did a long crank with injectors unplugged, car seemed to fire up for a sec or two.

jamesinc

I happened to be under the bonnet of a 240 just now and also noticed your distributor looks fairly advanced compared to mine.

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You have setup your timing belt correctly, but the last person to touch it may have got the aux shaft pulley off by one tooth, then advanced the distributor to compensate. Now you have set it correctly and the distributor is just way too advanced. A timing light would reveal all, but short of that maybe just mark the current position then move it toward the centre of its adjustment range and see if you notice any difference.

jamesinc

Unless the photo is tricking my eye, I think @Anthony is onto something, because the leads do appear to be in the wrong order. It looks like you have them 1-2-4-3, rather than 1-3-4-2.

They need to match up to this:

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GreenGL

Well @Anthony and @jamesinc were on the money.

Turns out leads 2 & 3 were the wrong way around. I've corrected that, did the clear flood procedure and it fired right up to a smooth idle.

In my defence, the handwritten 2 and 3 looked very similar Image description

Thanks everyone who contributed knowledge. I'll have to complete reassembly then road test with the vx3 cam.