Ok Guys, I'll be looking over some 740 Turbos next week with the aim of buying one to add to my collection of one Volvo!
As I haven't owned a turbo car before, what should I be looking for when I inspect the beasts? Assuming it goes and I test drive is there anything I should note during the test?
Any advice is appreciated.
By the way, I will be taking a camera with me and any car I'm not buying will be listed here (assuming the owner is happy to do this) so that other will have the opportunity to buy.
's wagon. Nice car.... :)
I don't profess to be an expert but buy a newer one over an older one, a wagon over a sedan and a manual over an auto.
Sorry but it has to be gold, a sedan not a wagon and an auto not a manual.
Cool. At least you know what you are looking for. And by chasing an auto sedan you have chosen the cheaper, more readily available option so you can be a little more particular and find a good one. Finding a gold one might be your only trouble..
I had a silver auto sedan for a couple of years. Was a great car.
Well this guy seems to have a gold one so here's hoping.
Unfortunately it's done 330K so it may need a bit of engine work. Interestingly he says it has a Frantz filter on the engine and one on the gearbox so it might be in very good condition for it's age. Google it if you want to know what that is.
Right oil and good fuel should make for good nick for its age. First time I have heard of them too, very interesting and old style loo roll being the element is pretty cool.
I had one fitted to my Datsun 1600 and it certainly cleaned the oil but you had to make sure that the oil pump could take the extra strain as it did make it work a bit harder filtering the oil. It ran on a bypass system so eventually it filtered all the oil. Mine took oil from the the oil pressure sender and returned it to in front of the timing chain. From there the oil drained down over the timing chain and back to the sump. Made the timing chain a lot quieter too!
Lots of things to look at on a 740t. Though not much different to a non turbo one interior wise. Noisy motor will be normal for the kms, turbo should boost well by 2200, if you stall the box up it will go to about 2200 too. Less will indicate a worn torque converter, box shouldn't thump too hard into each gear and change from first to second by 30kmh with light throttle.
I like the auto cars more, the manuals on them shift similar to a truck. Caster bushes will be worn. Diff hub seals can be leaking. There is more but I'm on the phone.
I have been looking at the supposed HP and torque of the various 740s and I find that the turbo one is not much better than my 16 valve version.
The stock 740 is 85kW, the 16 valve is 114kW and the turbo is 119kW. Hopefully someone can tell me that the turbo performs a LOT better than the 16 valve in actual practice.
Stock 16v v stock turbo is very even in power type feel. Power kicks in at different times with that sort of turbo kick that brings it in earlier. Where the turbo wins is that it is tonnes easier to get more power and wake it up even with simple stuff than it is with a 16v.
So are you saying that I'll need to mod any turbo that I buy to get it to perform? If so, what are these "simple stuff" things I would have to do?
To look for:
1. Usual redblock mechanicals. Thrashy sounding motors aren't great, but are not usually a sign of impending doom either.
2. Tired turbo will blow smoke on cold start up. Stuffed turbo will do it all the time.
3. Usual 700 interior stuff - make sure the electricals all work (inc windows), look for saggy headlining, check for dodgy interior door handles (esp driver's side).
4. They share the dodgy wiring (insulation that gets brittle and falls off) with 240s of the same age. seems to be a bigger issue with the extra heat from a turbo.
5. Metallic paints are very prone to buggering the clearcoat. Bodies seem pretty well rust-proof in Australian conditions.
Exhaust - hands-down the only choice for the first mod.
2.5" from the turbo back will wake it up enormously. 3" is better if you plan on chasing more power, at the expense of being more likely to drone (can be avoided with muffler choice [$$]).
A better intercooler (better flowing, more than physically larger) is the next mod. The stock one is surprisingly restrictive.
From there, you end up on the normal path of more boost, ECU/chip, cam, etc.
FWIW, my last 740T was considerably slower than my old (now egad's) 16V 940GLE - the 740T had a horrible exhaust that was built with a big crimp in the middle. Overall, the Turbo cars are faster and feel much faster due to superior midrange power.
Yup, that feel in the mid is that kick in where you need it more often.
Thanks for the advice Spac.
Interestingly I have replaced the exhaust on my 16V and it seems to have made it a lot better too. The catalytic converter seemed to be the original one. The newer one is slightly smaller but breathes a lot better.
Where do I get a better intercooler?
Ebay, if you have the skills to make it fit.
I do have some skills from my younger days but haven't touched turbo setups.
Looking on ebay now - any particular brands/models?
I am yet to do intercooler as I'd rather make it easily reversible, its not needed as urgently compared to turning the boost up a bit and making sure everything is in good condition and the exhaust helps more for power too.
Most intercoolers are not quite the best shape compared to stock with needing to move the oil cooler too.
The engine and turbo will most likely be okay. You want to check on the underside of the turbo-to-intercooler hose. Look for excessive softness and even holes in the hose. This would indicate increased blow-by or worn turbo bearings. You can live with these things, but they make an excellent point of leverage in negotiating down the price.
Also pay attention to the interior. The plastic tends to go brittle so where there's one broken piece of trim there'll be lots more hiding around the place.
As usual take it for a 20 minute test drive and make sure to put your foot down a few times. You want to see that the car pulls smoothly which will indicate the various engine sensors are generally in working order.