Reubo I have a replacement fuse box and relay area
From what year model? There are subtle differences in the fuse / relay allocation and wiring between different 740/940 year models. (I found this out the hard way....)
If your replacement electrical centre is also from a YM 87, you shouldn't have too many dramas; if it's from a different year model, you may.
The absolute last thing you want to do is cut wires. On the underside of the electrical centre, the wires connect to the fuse points via Utilux-type blade connectors. There also should be a wiring colour code paper label affixed to the underside of the fuse box, and that's held in place by the wires fitting over the blade connectors. It should look something like this:
(This label's from a YM 89, so it is probably different to yours.... but you get the idea).
Your replacement electrical centre (fusebox) should ideally have the same label as the one in your car,
As you can (hopefully) see, the different colour codes on the label correspond to the different wires which need to be disconnected and moved from the old electrical centre to the new one. It's a very long and tedious process, and my guess is most auto sparkies will either charge like wounded bulls on angel dust to do this, or run away from the job like they are on it.
So you may need to tackle this yourself, and have somebody close by to give you a hand if needed.
If you're colourblind, don't even consider doing this job - bribe someone who isn't with offers of $BEVERAGE to do it, after the job is completed of course. Mixing up the colour coded wires will cause no end of problems, and that's easy enough to do even by someone who isn't colourblind.
The differences between year models and their fuse boxes include, but are not limited to -
Fuse #1 on year model X may have a different purpose(s) to fuse #1 on year model Y (and so on).
The power rails are wired differently on some fuse boxes. So the 'always on 12V' rail might supply different fuses with power between models. You need to be careful with this as, for example, the ignition system needs to be powered when the starter is engaged - and not cut off like many other systems on the 'ignition on' power rail.
You'll likely find that the fuse which juices up the heater fan motor is cooked, or about to cook (Different year models have different fuse numbers for the heater fan). The only real fix for that is to wire in a very heavy duty and high quality replacement fuse holder, which will take a fuse of the same Amperage as the original. The heater fan draws something stupid like about 15 or 20A, and the dicky little OE fuse holder contacts can't handle that many herbs, so they cook. I've had to replace the heater fan fuse fitting and modify the electrical centre in my 780 for that reason. It wasn't a fun job.
I wish you good luck on your journey, which is not for the feint of heart.
