Jamest5r_ I was speaking with VP TUNING today and he said it should be 1.8psi so I'll go with that for now.
850 T-5R Wagon Improvement Thread
If yours was a Jap import then the radio in it won't work correctly here in OZ. The Jap frequencies are lower. I have an 850R import and had to change to a OZ imported version. You can also get the code from your Volvo dealer as the original Jap import radio came in a box with the car (it had an aftermarket one in it) and my local Volvo dealer sourced the code for me.
dmcoz So the radio i purchased with no code is from Europe but unfortunately can't get the unlock code through Volvo Aus :-/
The current 850R radio is for the Aus market so all works perfectly.
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PAINT:
Over the past few months I've been noting all the little stone hips and places that need touching up. I've also managed to get my hands on the headlight trims for the headlight wiper kit I'll be installing on the car any day now.
All of these needed paint so i sourced a very good paint match from Complete Auto paints of Springvale. Turns out you can get a 2 pack rattle can. I never knew this existed until last week.
The paint mixture took a few modifications, back and forth to my car to inspect colour match.
Colour matching
2 pack heated in welding rod cabinet before use.
Trims keyed with 800 grit and prep washed
3 coats of paint applied and baked at 60c for 45 mins, left to cool for 20 mins.
Finish and colour match comparison. Not bad for a rattle can.
I was advised to use within 8 hours of piercing the diagram and the 2k mixing. However, I used the can the following day and do touch ups around the entire car.
Headlight kit to be installed any day now!! :-)
How did you go with the fumes, did you wear a respirator? I'm going to try some 2K aerosol on some repairs on my 244 soon.
jamesinc yeah, I used a respirator and also it's a spray booth with an extraction fan to pull fumes out. It was super short period of time spraying.
2k seems real good and it seems tough too.
INTERIOR REPAIRS:
Whilst installing some Volvo anti-rattle tape on the dash i momentarily stuck a a bit onto my steering wheel and it lifted the leather off. Turns out there was a repair done in the past and the shiny finish to the leather wasn't just right.
I took it to Unseen Repairs in Carrum Downs who did a fantastic job. Reach out for further details if needed, they even cleaned the amaretto (which means the leather is from a Deer and not a Cow, can anybody clarify this?): https://g.co/kgs/ASTK62f
They also repaired some gouges in the rear right door card, unfortunately i didn't take before pics.
Before
After.
ELECTRONIC CLIMATE CONTROL:
I've had error codes display on the ECC unit in regards to the right side temp sensor since buying the car, so i sourced a new dash sunlight sensor with the correct pin count and also replaced the drivers side interior temp sensor in the roof lining
Turns out the replaced temp sensor i got had a failed fan and the thermistor fell off my original sensor so i made one good one out of the 2.
Cleaned, tested, installed and codes cleared.
Temp sensor:
Thermistor missing.
Replacement testing
New dash sunlight sensor and alarm light with clips still intact :-O
morch_66479 I took it to Unseen Repairs in Carrum Downs who did a fantastic job.
The difference is night and day, the refurbished wheel looks so much better.
I thinks it's been around 50 posts since I said how much I enjoy the attention to detail. Keep it coming.
I meant to provide some info on the CD stacker. Looks like an Alpine unit with Volvo stencilling on it, I had a similar unit on a Mercedes W210 E430 & a CLK500. They are notorious for jamming the changer carriage, so gently on rough roads and easy, easy over the speed humps!
So just to add a random note in regards to the dash light, alarm system and key fobs.
To program the remote central locking fobs you need to cycle the ignition 5 times and the red dash light is meant to flash to indicate the system is ready for fob programming. It turns out that the dash light and sensor that originally came in my car was a 2 pin unit and those pins were connected to the sunlight sensor for the ECC. Which means the rred light never flashed.
However by installing the 4 pin sensor this red light is now operational but I think it's triggered by the black remote central locking and alarm relay that sits under the driver's side dash. I currently have one installed as part of my journey to upgrade my alarm from the Basic Alarm kit to the Volvo Guard 2 kit
I am not 100% sure but my Aus delivered 1997 V70 T5 has the same sunlight and lock light and is the immobiliser light has never flashed in my 6+ yrs of owning it. No idea of how many pins it has I am to lazy to pull it out but I have always wanted it to flash when the cars locked like the 90's falcon smart lock transponder in the corner of the Windscreen.
Just for the nostalgic period look lol
I might do another check tomorrow to see whether its the black relay (VGA2) that's cause it to flash for the programming.
With the Basic Alarm system (which has its own individual receiver box beside the glovebox as per my post somewhere on this thread), the manual says it should flash red when dead locked (2 pushes of the lock button) but it doesn't which makes me think its activated by the black relay. Update to follow!!
I've been chasing the same thing nostalgia :-), may be best not touch it as your sure to break clips and anything plastic haha
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Bit random but I remember a couple of years ago I jacket the car up with the doors locked ( alarm on ) and remember the red led going mental 
You may have a level sensor which was an accessory part for the Volvo guard alarm and plugs into the relay. 'I have a glass break sensor' for mine…. This will be in a future post haha
Guessing you dont have a horn mounted on your firewall that should have sounded whilst the alarm/red light was going off?
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Yep exactly right on the sensor . Stuart was talking about the break glass sensor as well , I've looked into it in from the past but not gone for it for some reason ( still in my watch list ) .
The horn bulk head hmmm I've thought about this for years now , done nothing about it . If I was going OEM I'd have it for sure but I've seemed to stray away from original with my R..
rado there's heaps of glass break sensors on ebay UK.
I've got one and also got the horn and bonnet latch sensor.
Just making sure any blank plug I find for optional accessories is filled haha
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Stand alone alarm horn
Break glass sensor
Reqiured relay
Alarm harness that plugs into main harness
Bonnet latch with micro switch
Genuine factory Central locking & alarm fob
Broken glass sensor
I've now got factory central locking and factory alarm set up in the 850R
242GT Thanks for the pictures, I've pretty much got all of them parts and installed the horn and bonnet latch/switch last night.
With regards to the glass break sensor, where does this connector plug into:
The only item i need to buy is the keyless entry fob, i looked on Skandix and thought their Black Friday Sale might have offered a discount but it looks like they only have a sale on caps, bottle openers and the like :-/ https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/body/bootlid-bonnet-doors-sunroof/locking-system/remote-control-locking-system/1019759/?srsltid=AfmBOoqqbEAPZp8Gen3pKXZRB2EKc1vnRNAJQ4R1wHcK-k0YTqH7Bhue
Any tips on programming the fobs? I'm assuming i just buy the fob and then program it as per usual with the 5 key cycles?
Also, dos your indicators flash when you lock the car?
It looks like your horn is mounted in a different location? I also noticed your running the v70 style wipers which means you can use the nut caps that lot of people seem to ask about online.
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I've deliberately didnt mounted the horn in the factory spot , which is down on the firewall near the turbo as it would be subject to the heat coming off the turbo , its also far more practical where its mounted now for the harness plug and function , sound .
The harness plug was literally right next to where I mounted it , I found a hole that is already in the metal lip that runs accross the top of the engine bay, just run your finger along the lip under the plastic cover and use a step drill to carefully drill a hole in the plastic making sure not to touch the painted lip below , its under the plastic cover in the middle in front of the screen and covers the cabin filter which I've also installed as 850's didn't come with them.
Yes , I've converted the wipers to the S/C/V70 series wipers and now have drivers side (right hand) working perfectly in any rain event.
The caps are hideously expensive for genuine from suppliers ( $24 plus postage) so I've used a different manufacturers cap with an O ring inside to create a tight fit so it functional and looks original.
Yes , all blinkers flash as per factory with the fob , the smaller rectangle button operates the alarm , Stu from Voldat helped out with the setting up , I bought parts from overseas and Stu to complete the reqiured parts and install.
The good part is that on the 850 , the wiring harness is all plug and play ready to go , so as you get the parts , wiring up is very easy via ready to go plugs in the harness.
I'm a fussy old fossil , so now everything works in the cars entertainment as it should including the CD player , both stacker in boot & single player in dash.
I use a blue tooth cassette to connect my phone to the cars speaker system so I can use google maps and Waze as a good sat nav.
This has allowed me to keep the 850R as per factory original as possible both inside and outside the car
Ah I see. Looks tidy 
why do people upgrade to the v70 wiper arms out of curiosity?
I know of some at a local wreckers and also have caps in my shed.
Keen to see where that glass break sensor plug goes into
