Nice find. That 242GT front spoiler is quite hard to find now.
Suggest you change the engine's timing belt as soon as you can (you'll want the square tooth type belt).
Also suggest you do a 'Stage 0' - i.e. replace all the rubber hoses which have carried vacuum, fuel and coolant since last century, and the oils and fluids. I'd be checking the condition of the brake hoses too.
Your front wiper motor issue and your nonworking heater fan issue sounds like you'll need to do a dashboard removal in order to get to the faulty electrical components &/or their connectors. Lots and lots and lots of Philips screws need to be removed, and plan to take a couple of days to do it if you've not removed one before.
Heater fan motor replacement is a Rite Of Passage for 240 owners....
Being a YM78, you might find the fan motor is the old-type Electrolux motor with multiple windings for different fan speeds - this type usually wears out its (replaceable) brushes and they're repairable if the bearings are okay. If the bearing are cactus, you may have to replace the motor with updated permanent magnet type motor and add a resistor along with a new fan switch. The tech archive has the replacement process covered in the 240 air conditioning service Green Book listed as TP11584-1 Volvo 240 Air Conditioning Repair and Maintenance.pdf .
Before going for registration, check your ADR compliance plate to see if it's plated as a 2-seater or a 5-seater. 245Ls were plated as 2-seaters back in the day so they'd qualify for the new car sales tax breaks applicable for commercial vehicles back in the day. So even though they're pretty much mechanically identical to 245 wagons, your state or territory might insist on an engineer's report on the rear seat 'modifications' before they'll rego it.
Front wheel bearings for a YM78 should use the early small type of bearing kits which are common to Holdens, unless the PO changed the strut tubes to later types. See https://ozvolvo.org/d/13880-13880
Ordering parts from overseas is often the cheapest way to get replacements, but beware of hitting the $1000 limit. The Usual Suspects (FCP Euro, Skandix, VP Autoparts, iPD) plus gcp.se and Rock Auto will ask a fraction of what the local dealers want for a given part in 90% of cases (e.g. $45 dollars each for a 16V head bolt from an Australian dealer, versus $120/ set of 10 shipped from the USA....) Berry Motor Group in Melbourne also carry new and used parts.
There are other retailers in OZ who carry parts, but they often don't know what parts fit which models since many take the view that All Volvos Look The Same So The Parts Are All The Same when they are most definitely not, so caution (and parts familiarity) is needed when shopping from them.
Since you'll have to pull the rear cargo area windows out to deal with the rust repairs, there's the option of replacing the seals with 1990+ types which have drainage dimples. However, if you do this, the 1990+ type seals don't allow you to refit the alloy brightwork around the windows. The 'butt cheeks' aka rear spare wheel wells are a common rust problem; VP Auto and Brookhouse in the UK offer replacements if you want to replace them rather than repair what you have.
Good luck with your project.
