Have also now finished tearing down the block, for freeze plugs there are many ways to remove them, I drill a hole off-centre than use an open ended spanner to lever them out. Just be careful not to crash into the bore when the drill goes through, a stepped bit is good for this
This looks like fun!
Can the crank pitting on the bearing surface be metal sprayed?
Is that pitting on the running surface or within the oil groove of the bearing? It may not need any treatment at all, aside from cleaning.
Also, remember to leave the floor of the exhaust port alone. Focus on the roof and sides.
Firstly I would like to thank James for doing this. It's something well beyond my capabilities, either due to lack of knowledge, somewhere to do it at my apartment complex, my physical ability (still recovering from significant back injury from January) and mentally (a lot of my plate, and awaiting ADHD work for meds).
Secondly I am really excited by all of this and hopefully will be able to cruise the mean streets of Canberra in the Jaffa again. And grateful to have a mate like James willing to do the work. Without his support I probably would've just up and sold the car and moved on disappointed.
Thirdly I have first hand experience of James' engine work and I can safely say it is better than most engine rebuild shops. His attention to detail is outstanding and his ability to think outside the box when needed is impressive.
The Jaffa turns 50 this year. Even though it's now too late to get it over the line in time for its approximate build date (mid-June going by stamps on several parts), it would be awesome to see it at a show and shine again sometime before the end of the year or early next year.
Bottom end is back from the machine shop, it's had everything done. I've wrapped it up in WD40 for a few days while I wait for the paint (@Major Ledfoot it is Volvo Penta Red OEM aerosol). I won't mess around, I want to get the engine buttoned up without delay. I will run it through with bottle brushes and compressed air, seat the freeze plugs, and paint the block. I've also got the sump, I had that hot dipped same as the block, need to wire wheel off a few bits of rust but I'll paint that at the same time as I do the block.
Once that's done, I'll install the rotating assembly, oil pump, cam and button the sump up.
As usual, stay tuned for more updates!
There was a place in Hornsby I used to buy my B20 2.1ltr head gaskets from
Freeze plugs installed with Permatex 80008:
We went with OEM red
An hour of masking, a bunch of prepwash and tack rags and the block is looking pretty röd!
I still need to install the rear cam plug and paint inside the bellhousing area, for that I have to take the motor off the stand, I don't have any time until Sunday afternoon so that will give this paint a few days to setup fully before I start handling the block again.
Looking nice james
^ Nice job. It's interesting how the Penta Red looks somewhat orange to my Beholding Eye, and rather more orange than the B230 engine in the background of the pics.
Not a bad thing, really, considering the engine's future home.....
What's your plan for the initial start-up and the breaking in of the cam and lifters? Doing this properly is critical to the longevity to the valvetrain and cam of a solid lifter engine, and these setups are not common configurations any more. I'm pretty sure I stuffed up this process 35 years ago.
Major Ledfoot I had the same issue with orange paint for the bodywork of the Jaffa, it took a few days before the colour looked close or right.
The B230 is VHT Engine Enamel in Bright Red
The B20's colour looks awesome in real life.
I've now installed the cam plug and painted inside the bellhousing.
I also painted this, which I think is the oil separator?
I dropped it in a tin of paint thinner for a few days which took care of all the crud inside it and hit it with a wire wheel to remove the last bits of paint and some surface rust.
gavinh That's the plan. Because the car's been sitting for 18 months, it's going to need to have the brakes sorted out, and I also need to order the new radiator from Sweden (now there's someone making 1972 onwards radiators again), and I also need a new exhaust and the steering box serviced. Not sure what to do about the diff, I am not intending to change it over once the auto is swapped for manual, but I guess it will need to be serviced in some form.
Do you have reason to suspect there is an issue with the diff? Otherwise just change the oil and carry on!
